Davenport coastline looking south towards Monterey
It was a foggy morning when we set off from home for Bean Hollow Beach but the forecast said the sun would burn off the fog. We were slightly concerned that the Santa Cruz mountain range would be fog bound, which would have made the drive a little scary, but miraculously the fog disappeared as soon as we left the valley. In fact the drive over the mountains was wonderful with a perfect view of Monterey as we crested the summit.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
Once again we must apologize for the lack of posts recently, due to bad weather over several weekends and an unfortunate accident. Both situations are much improved now I’m pleased to say.
Crossing over the tracks heading towards the ocean at Davenport, California
After our fabulous breakfast at Zachary’s in Santa Cruz, we drove north on Highway 1. We stopped in Davenport because Tom had read somewhere that there were the remains of old pier in Davenport. We parked right opposite the Whale City Bakery Bar & Grill and walked towards the ocean. We soon came to the edge and looked down on a railway track. There was a worn path on the other side of the tracks and all we had do was to find the way to it. At the end of the parking area near a clump of trees we found shale like rock which looked a bit like a staircase so we climbed down, crossed the tracks and picked up the path on the other side. Soon we were at the edge of a steep cliff with wonderful views over a sandy beach and we could see Monterey in the distance. The coastline was spectacular but saw no sign of a pier. Further down I spotted someone sitting on the edge of the cliff with his hound by his side so I went to ask him about the pier. The guy was obviously a local with his dreadlocks, ruddy face, full beard, woolly cap and holding a large cup of coffee in his hands. He readily told us where the remains of the pier were, which was around the point to the north. The path was easy to follow but we stayed away from the edge of the steep cliff. As we walked there was a lovely smell but at first I couldn’t work out where it came from. Then I saw a big swathe of white alyssom and the penny dropped.
Three Pelicans gliding up the coast at Davenport, California
We spied the remains of the pier easily. Only three concrete supports remain. As we didn’t know the history, it was the first thing I checked when I got home. A whaling captain called John Pope Davenport (the town was named after him) built the first pier in 1867 at the mouth of what is now known as the Muddy Water Creek. Lumber was brought down from the hills and shipped to Santa Cruz a little way down the coast. When the steamers could no longer get alongside the pier due to the mud which was also being brought down from the hills, an extension was built to the pier but this did not solve the problem. An even longer pier was built later but that one was destroyed in a storm. (This information came from Wikipedia).
While Tom took loads of photographs, I sat on a concrete block on top of the cliff and contemplated the view. Strings of pelicans skimmed the waves beneath me and out at sea a group of small fishing boats kept me fully absorbed. It was bliss. The sun was warm with no wind to speak of. While I sat there only one person, a surfer, walked by. It was very relaxing and peaceful.
An hour later we were back of the road again driving towards Half Moon Bay. Along the way many cars were parked and surfers were either getting changed into their wet suits, walking towards the ocean with their boards or out on the water waiting for the next big wave. A drive on Highway 1 on Big Sur to the south is always wonderful but this drive to the north is even better in our opinion with it’s many accessible sandy beaches and each of them unique.
Bean Hollow State Beach along the San Mateo coast
At 9:30 we arrived at Bean Hollow State Beach. I expected there to be a day charge to use the beach but I couldn’t see anywhere to pay. We walked to the sandy beach down a partly eroded path. Immediately the unusual honeycomb rock formations attracted our attention. I wandered off down the beach while Tom paused to take photos. There was so much to take in. Looking down at the sand I could see all kinds of tracks – birdlife, crabs and human – besides all the flotsam washed up on the beach like seaweed, shells and driftwood. By looking up I could take in the cliff face and then, looking out over the ocean I could see the waves breaking on the rocky outcrops. A family group with four small boys were having fun in a little lagoon. Several sandcastles attested to their other activities. I sat on a big driftwood log and even thought about taking my sweater off as it was so warm but all too soon Tom had caught up with me and it was time to explore the trail along the top of the beach.
A half hidden flight of wooden steps at the north end of the beach led to the top of the bluff. The trail is close enough to the highway to see and hear the traffic but the sound of the waves breaking blurred most of noise.
It was an interesting trail. I was surprised at the amount of color around in the plant life from both flowers and greenery. The ice plant, even though it is an invasive plant, has bright purple or yellow flowers. There were small information boards every so often which told me things I didn’t know like the fact that the Ohlone people collected olive shells here to make jewelry and the fact that the foam seen washed up on the beach is created by algae and is natural. In other words, it is not soapsuds. The trail is easy to negotiate though very narrow. Several small wooden bridges crossed the wetter places and the occasional flight of wooden steps made climbing the hills easier.
Strange rock erosion called Tafoni
About half way along the trail there is a convenient bench to sit on and I took advantage of it. Here I did take my sweater off. Sitting there gave me a chance to catch up with my writing. When I saw Tom appear in the distance I carried on with my walk. I spotted a small snake slithering across the path and through the plants and wanted to take a photo but it had disappeared before I was able to get my camera out of its case. Should be easy to identify when I get home because it had a bright yellow line along its spine. (It was a Santa Cruz Gartersnake but, as it was not very big, I’m guessing it was just a baby one).
I walked all the way to Pebble Beach where there was a small car park. It is also part of the Bean Hollow State Beach. Here was an interesting information board telling me that the honeycomb rock formations are called Tafoni which is caused by rock weathering and erosional processes. I tried calling Tom on my cell phone to tell him where I was but there was no network coverage so I turned around and walked back.
Ice plant flower. Stuff grows like a weed (is a weed) but at least the flower is pretty.
I caught up with Tom back at the bench and he told me all the interesting features he had been using with his camera. On the way back to the car we analyzed the remains of a large bird which had come to grief in a patch of ice plant. When I passed it earlier I thought it was the remains of a young sea gull but Tom deduced it was a pelican by the shape of its skull.
We stopped in Pescadero on the way home at Harley Goat Farm to buy some of my favorite honey and lavender cheese plus some feta cheese as well. Of course we had to sample lots of the other cheeses and some scrumptious boysenberry, blackberry and raspberry preserve. Since our last visit they have extended the shop and now on sale are some gorgeous wooden chopping boards imported from Wales, socks made with wool from angora goats imported from Yorkshire and garden tools made of copper and tin imported from Hungary.
We were home just after 2 o’clock and we both agreed that for the price of gas, a wonderful breakfast and some cheese, it had been a perfect day.
December 03 2011 | Special Places | No Comments »
One of several doorways and archways throughout the beautiful gardens at Filoli.
It was a beautiful day and we were off to Filoli. A lot of you may not know where, or even what, is Filoli, so I will explain. The Filoli estate is situated in Woodside on 654 acres just south of Crystal Springs. It was built between 1915 and 1917 by Mr. and Mrs. William Bourn who made their fortune from the Empire Gold Mine in Grass Valley. William Bourn named the estate Filoli. For years nobody knew the origin of the name until a close of associate of his realized it was taken from a credo often quoted by William Bourn – “Fight for a just cause; Love your fellow man; Live a good life”. They lived there from 1917 to 1936. Mr and Mrs William Roth bought the estate in 1937. William Roth died in 1963 and in 1975 Mrs Roth donated the whole estate to the National Trust for Historic Preservation. The house has 43 rooms and the formal garen consists of a number spaces which are joined but completely different.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
As it was a Friday and Filoli does not open until 10:00 am, we didn’t leave until after 9:00 am, hoping the traffic would be light. The traffic on 280 was OK but heavier than at 6:00 am on a weekend morning. Approaching the turn off at Edgewood Road and Crystal Springs we spied a finger of fog clinging to the top of the Coastal Range. Canada Road had a few cyclists on it but much less than you would find on a normal Saturday.
The reason we have come to Filoli is because I spotted a half price deal on the Daily Deal offered by the San Jose Mercury News. Armed with the printed ticket I was surprised that neither the guy at the entry kiosk or the two ladies on the admission desk had seen one before but the latter knew about it. Tom and I were each given a sticker which allowed us admission to both house and garden. We were also told of the guided tour starting at 10:00 which is included in the admission price. It sounded interesting but not for us as I like to wander around and discover places on my own and Tom likes to stop frequently to take photographs. Outside we had seen a lot of schoolchildren gathering but they were off on a nature walk which is docent led. These nature walks are available on a Saturday for everybody.
We watched a short video about Filoli before setting off on our own; Tom with his camera and tripod and me with a handy guide book and map which were handed to me when we received our stickers and my trusty IPad. As most of the guided tours go into the house first, we headed for the garden shop and the gardens themselves.
Through the first doorway to this garden with the reflecting pool.
Stepping through a doorway, the first view of the gardens amazed me. In front of me the sunken garden, with its rectangular pond and formally laid out flower beds, took my breath away. I left Tom taking photos and walked through the sunken garden to the swimming pool. Everything looked immaculate from the water in the pool to the trees lining the walkways and the brick paths. At the far end a docent, Ed Carlson, greeted me and for a few minutes we chatted about England and Filoli. He was sitting in the shade of the pavilion and I could tell that he really enjoyed his volunteer job.
From there I meandered across the old tennis court – now a concert area I’m guessing – and through the woodland garden. As I walked from section to section it was like going from one room to another, each area being completely different. Each was a new experience. I walked through an archway, past the bereft daffodil meadow with its bare beds, and found myself in the rose garden. Here I sat for a while on a bench, enjoyed the comparative peace and quiet and spoke to some hens which wandered past. It was also here that Tom and I crossed paths for a short while.
My period of contemplation was over and I walked through another archway. For some reason I could not work out where I was. As I studied the map, a docent spotted me and asked if she could help. She pointed out on my map where we were and soon I was on the right path. The High Place was my next destination and to get there I needed to walk through the rose garden. In the distance I saw Tom and we exchanged greetings as me passed on parallel paths. On my way I walked through an interesting knot garden and the impressive cutting garden. Fragrant sweet peas and an assortment of colorful blooms were at their peak, others flowers were newly planted and a few beds had been prepared for a future planting. The High Place was not really that high but it was windy. A convenient bench with a semicircle of stone pillars behind commanded a wonderful view along a yew tree walk towards Crystal Springs, though I couldn’t see any sign of the lake.
Lavender, lavender, lavender at Filoli
Time to make my way to the house via the fruit garden and along the Upper Terrace. Here I spotted the glint of blue on a bird which flew across my path. Was it a Western Bluebeard? Taking a small detour I found a short wall to sit on while I waited and watched. Nearby I saw a nesting box on a short post and, sure enough, before too long both parents flew backwards and forwards to the nesting box to feed their young. I was enchanted to discover they were Western Bluebirds. I lost track of the time I sat there and studied them but eventually guessed it was time to go and find Tom.
I discovered him sitting of a bench in a shady little courtyard. We made our way to the front entrance of the house and entered through the main door. Not only did we have a map of the house with a description of the rooms but the self guided tour was well signed inside and each room displayed a board which fully described the room. The guide book informed us that ‘The goal of furnishing the House has been to furnish it as it might have been when the House was occupied.’ but the overwhelming impression to us lesser mortals would describe it as over furnished and far more opulent than what we would call a family home.
As we walked through the different rooms – reception, dining, drawing, trophy, flower rooms, and the kitchen, butler’s pantry, library, study and ballroom, we noticed interesting things. In the kitchen there was a servants’ call board and a dumbwaiter whilst in the trophy room there as a huge book containing beautiful paintings of plants grown at Highgrove; which is the home of Prince Charles. It was huge and encased in a glass cabinet. Only one page could be seen which was a pity because I would have loved to turn the pages. When we were in the library, the docent pointed out an anomaly in the wood block floor. He told us to stand in one spot and observe the light and dark shades of the wood. Then he directed us to stand where we could see the same section from the opposite direction. What appeared dark before was light and vice versa. It was obviously due to the grain of the wood but fascinating nevertheless.
Only the downstairs is open to view. Apparently the upstairs is not furnished and, because there is no fire exit, it does not conform to code. As it was way past our lunchtime, it was time to head home. It had been an interesting visit but, for me at any rate, the gardens were more impressive than the house.
June 27 2011 | Special Places | 2 Comments »
One of the views from Franklin Point
Every once in a while we have to visit Franklin Point to enjoy the utter tranquility of the place. See previous posts here, here and here. It was a last minute decision because we had other plans for this weekend, which were thwarted. We were going to Nevada City to look over a couple of possibilities for our biennial family get together for Christmas this year. The trip had to be postponed due to weather conditions. Highway 20 is closed five miles south of Nevada City due to snow and an avalanche warning.
In San Jose the sun was shining brightly but even here there is a chance of snow. It was forecast that snow could fall at sea level which does not happen very often here. Tom did tell me this morning that snow actually fell in San Francisco last night on some of the highest points but didn’t settle.
On the east side of the Santa Cruz mountains we could see a little bit of snow on the peaks but as soon as we passed over the summit we saw lots of snow, especially in the shaded areas. Tom called it a light dusting. It certainly looked pretty, giving the view a Christmassy appearance. It was a bright day with no hint of fog. Once again we could see Monterey in the distance.
American Abalone Farms. The abalone are raised in those covered tanks.
There was more traffic than we were used to on Highway 1 north of Santa Cruz. A lot of folks on their bikes were already up and about. A smattering of rain drops hit our windscreen. We agreed beforehand that if we ran into rain, we would turn back. Ahead there were no clouds in the sky so we carried on.
Just north of Davenport we spotted a sign advertising farm raised abalone for sale. At Davenport Landing Road we turned left and American Abalone Farm is a short drive down. There were lots of buildings which were obviously where the abalone are raised but we couldn’t see inside as plastic sheeting covered the outside. Stacks of pipes were stacked up and we could hear water being pumped. The abalone are raised in tanks where fresh sea water from the nearby ocean is pumped and they feed on fast growing kelp.
We followed a sign which took us to the farm shop and a very personable young man greeted us. We asked how old abalone had to be before they could be eaten and were told 3 – 3.5 years. I looked at a chart on the wall showing sizes abalone from hatching up to 3.5 years. Tom remembers a time when you could wade into the water and pry abalone off the rocks. Nowadays they are protected as commercial farming very nearly wiped them all out and now a license is needed to harvest them. I have never eaten abalone before though Tom has consumed a lot in his lifetime. At American Abalone Farms they sell fresh and frozen abalone. We bought four small frozen tenderized steaks ready to be cooked for $20. It sounds expensive but it was worth the money so I could taste them.
Further along the coast we passed a lot of cars parked along the road. This is where Scott Creek flows into the ocean and a favorite place for surfers. Today they were out in force.
Margaret waiting for me on the beach at Franklin Point.
Our main destination, Franklin Point, is a few miles beyond Ano Nuevo. There were no other cars parked on the gravel pull in next to the landmark tree stump. Maybe we would have the place to ourselves. The trail was a little muddy. Thank goodness for the raised boardwalk in a couple of places otherwise we would not have got through. In fact, one of the boardwalks is new or at least it was the first time we had seen it. The roped trail between the last two dunes now has a lake on both sides. In the middle, the sandy path had been breached but someone had put down a few bits of wood and it was easy to cross.
Where the trail ended, the recent storms and high tides had eroded the descent to the beach and it was impossible to walk down. I shuffled down on my bottom. Tom was some way behind as he had stopped along the trail to take photos and I had carried on without him. I knew he would have trouble getting onto the beach with his tripod so I sat on a nearby log so I could help him when he arrived. He also shuffled down on his bottom. I wondered though how we would get back up again.
Elephant seal at Franklin Point. When this guy had his head down resting he looked like a rock.
Once again I strode ahead, with the bench on Franklin Point in my sights. I heard Tom call me back and wondered what he had seen. It was a young male elephant seal lying on the beach. If he hadn’t called me back I would have tripped over him. Wow! This put us in a bit of a dilemma. How were we going to get past him as he was between the bluff and the ocean and you must stay at least 25 feet away? We decided to climb up and walk over the bluffs. It took us a little time and we both took different routes. I know you are not supposed to go off the trail but we did follow trodden paths. I kept my eyes open for any more stray elephant seals but I saw none. I did see paw tracks though. Bobcat or mountain lion I wondered? It made me realize just how vulnerable we frail humans are. I didnt want to run into either animal so I sang as I walked to warn any animals that I was coming.
I saw an interesting plant with runners and small clumps of leaves every so often. To me it looked like a strawberry plant. Then I saw lots more of them and tried really hard not to trample any of them. A bit further on I saw a white flower on one of the clumps of leaves and can confirm that they are wild strawberries. I wonder if they grow here naturally or whether they have been planted to improve the stability of the dunes.
Eventually I found a way through to the trail which led to my favorite bench. From a distance I could see Tom had already reached it and wondered how on earth he had beaten me. As I approached the bench along the boardwalk I realized it was not Tom at all but a stranger who was happily sitting there eating his breakfast. I looked back and saw Tom making his way along the trail to the boardwalk.
Wetlands on the way back from Franklin Point.
Sitting on the bench and soaking in the view was bliss. There was a chilly breeze but the sun was out. I chatted with the man when he finished his breakfast. He had walked along the trail from the south and had passed a couple of elephant seals on the way.
The views were as amazing as ever. Looking back I could see another group had arrived at the beach with children. I hoped they wouldn’t get too close to the elephant seal. Fortunately they gave it a wide berth. There were no pelicans today, which is unusual but we spotted a group of cormorants standing guard on a rock offshore.
Looking back to the beach I noticed that the elephant seal was gone but wasn’t sure whether he had made his way back to the ocean or had hauled himself further up the beach. At least we could walk back along the beach without disturbing him.
Later, as we made our way back, we discovered a trail the to the ocean the elephant seal had made. We also spotted another elephant seal at the top of the beach. This is the first time I have ever seen elephant seals here and it is an amazing sight. To avoid the difficult climb up to the trail we took a shortcut over the bluffs and along the edge of the small lake.
We debated whether to go back the way we had come to Santa Cruz or whether to drive back although Pescadero. The tempting thought of a fresh baked artichoke garlic bread from Arcangeli’s and goat cheese from Harley Farms was too strong to resist. We also bought a ollieberry pie in Arcangeli’s. Tonight we are going to enjoy a real Coastside meal with abalone followed by ollalieberry pie and ice cream. We might even have room finish up with bread (if there is any left by the time we get home) and goats cheese. Mmm, mmm.
Once again we have enjoyed another wonderful day. There is nothing like California with its never ending choices of places to visit and even if we have been to a place before, it is always different each time we go back. I feel so lucky to be living here.
March 14 2011 | Special Places | No Comments »
Pillar Point Harbor in Half Moon Bay
This is our first trip for a couple of weeks as we have been inundated with storms. Tomorrow the storms will return but today there is no rain and, in fact, the sun is shining. We had not made any plans to go anywhere because we were not sure exactly what the weather would be like. First thing this morning it was foggy and we were resigned to another day inside but at 9 the sun came out so we immediately got our gear together and set off.
We decided to head towards the coast. Our last visit to the ocean was in January when we visited Año Nuevo. Today we are heading further north to Pillar Point Harbor in Half Moon Bay. We could see snow on the tops of the range of mountains to the east and a mere dusting on the peaks of the Santa Cruz Mountains.
It is nice to see the sun again after so much rain and we are going to make the most of it today. Of course the rain is much appreciated both for watering our gardens and to fill our reservoirs for the coming year. Skiers are ecstatic due to the heavy snow falls in the Sierra Nevadas. One amazing change we noticed since our last drive along 280; the brown hills are now a luscious green.
I never tire of the drive from 280 along 92 to Half Moon Bay. There is always a lot of interesting things to look at. Today we had little more time to study the sights as the traffic was slightly heavier than we are used to due to our late start. So what is so interesting I hear you ask? Well, there are nurseries selling a variety of plants and one place where they specialize in roses. Huge metal prehistoric sculptures are displayed for sale at several places and one where they have wooden carvings of animals. We also passed grape vines and the La Nebbia Winery. One thing that caught my eye today was a full sized, brightly painted, yellow, wooden pony covered in different colored hearts. A sign nearby advertised pony rides. There are also tree farms and fruit stands along the way, though some of the latter were not open as it is too early in the year.
We bypassed Half Moon Bay and turned right onto Highway 1. As we left home before we’d eaten breakfast, we were both hungry. Our first attempt to find something to eat was thwarted. The Miramar Beach Restaurant was closed. It doesn’t open until 11 am on Sundays. The tide, we noticed, was very high and came right up to the sea wall.
One of the older boats in Pillar Point Harbor
Plan B for breakfast was the 3-Zero Cafe adjacent to Half Moon Bay Airport. There were a lot of cars in the car park and we knew we would be in
for a wait. Sure enough it took 25 minutes before we were led to a table but we spent the waiting period people watching so time seemed to pass pretty quickly. The servers were bustling around trying to negotiate through the mass of people inside the door to get to the cashier but they were very cheerful. Our table was right at the end, so it was isolated and we were sitting in the sun. It was a good place to be. There were people sitting and eating on the patio. If we had chosen to eat out there we would have been seated sooner but we decided it could possibly be a little chilly. Our order was taken quickly but it took nearly half an hour to serve it but it didn’t surprise us. Tom had Crab Cake Benedict (13.95) and I had Crab Benedict (11.95). Both dishes were OK but we were disappointed with the potatoes.
Just some rope in a half submerged dingy at Pillar Point Harbor
After breakfast we headed for Pillar Point Harbor and took a wander down the pier. This is a good place to buy fresh fish straight off the fishing boasts and we were on the lookout for whole fish – Tom has a recipe he wants to try – but we were out of luck. There were boats selling their fresh caught wares but Dungeness Crab was the seafood being sold. It has been a good year for Dungeness Crab but we were not in the market for it. We took a stroll down one of the floating wharves to take a closer look at the ships. Flashy modern boats for pleasure fishing were tied up alongside the rusting commercial fishing boats. The sleek and shiny ‘Tuna Tales’ next to the ‘Kiwi’ was a case in point. The three fishing boats selling crab on this particular wharf were the ‘Cricket’, the ‘Ani-K’ and the ‘Maggie’. I stood and watched the ‘Tern’ moor on an adjacent wharf and admired how skillfully it was done.
As we were unsuccessful in our quest for a fresh whole fish, we visited the Princeton Fish Market nearby. They did have whole fish but not what we were looking for. We ended up buying some sea scallops and a couple of calamari steaks. To round off our meal for tonight we stopped at a fruit stand on HW 92 and bought some asparagus from Mexico and a pound of brussels sprouts. Then it was home to San Jose, where the weather was cooler than at the coast. Another wonderful day.
February 20 2011 | Special Places | No Comments »
Looking out towards Año Nuevo from the visitor center
Año Nuevo is our main destination today. This is the best time of the year to see the elephant seals because both the females and the males are in residence. The females came ashore in December to give birth to their pups and the males arrived a bit later to start organizing their harems. Between December 15 and March 1 the only way to view the seals is to go on a guided tour which can be pre-booked online. Tom has visited during this time but I haven’t. We haven’t pre-booked but when we were last at Año Nuevo in November we were told that on most days it is OK to turn up on spec, especially for the early tours, because there are often spaces available due to no-shows. I did check the day before to see if we could book but there were no spaces available. Fingers crossed we can get on a tour!
This is the dawn of a new age because I’m using my new iPad for the first time on our travels. Hopefully it will save a lot of time. Before I used to take a notebook and write with a pen and then enter it into WordPress when I got back home. With the iPad and an app called Blogpress I can just sync it up when I get home and editing will be much quicker.
We left home at 6:30 when it was still dark and immediately I became aware of a couple more advantages of using the iPad. For one thing I can write in the dark because the screen is backlit. The second advantage is that every word is readable. A lot of times I would have trouble deciphering my notes because handwriting in a car suffers with every bump, twist and turn.
A thicket on our first little hike. The morning light and dew made it sparkle.
We could tell it was going to be a beautiful day. As we crested the summit of the Santa Cruz Mountains we could see no fog at the coast. Ahead we could clearly see the lights of Monterey clear across Monterey Bay – a rare phenomenon for us.
In Santa Cruz we stopped on Mission for coffee. It was called On a Mission Coffee and is little more than a kiosk but they also have a small range of breakfast items. We already had breakfast before we left home so we just bought liquid refreshment this time. Tom had coffee and I chose hot chocolate. We have bought coffee here before but then there was a huge range of magazines for sale at the side. I asked what happened to the magazines and the young girl told us they stopped because it wasn’t profitable.
We made another stop at Davenport Landing. Here there is a small secluded sandy beach. A couple of early morning surfers were already braving the elements and from where we stood they sounded as though they were having fun. A short walk on the beach, a couple of photos and we were on our way again.
There is nothing to beat an early morning drive along this stretch of road at this time of the morning on a lovely day like today. So many photo ops but unfortunately no time to stop again today.
Año Nuevo Sate Park opens at 8 am and we arrived a couple of minutes before. At the kiosk we paid the $10 entrance fee to the park and were given a standby number. We were the first standbys today so have a good chance to actually get on a tour. All guided walks start at the Visitors Center so from the car park that is where we headed. Along the way we paused to watch a flock of quail scurrying around. The males look particularly plump and handsome at this time of the year.
At the Visitors Center we gave our names and were told we would be called if there were still spaces five minutes before the published time of the start. If there were a lot of standbys and spare docents, they would lay on an extra tour.
We had a look around the Marine Education Center. Lots of interesting displays explaining not only the life cycle of events on the beach but also about the dunes and surrounding environment including the other wildlife which abounds here. While we were waiting a docent told us that we would definitely be on the 9:30 tour, which gave us enough time to have a look around outside.
Just outside the Visitors Center is the start of the New Year Creek Trail which we have never been on. This would is a good opportunity so off we set. The trail turned to the left and towards Cove Beach and Highway 1. At the bottom of a steep flight of wooden steps there was a parting of the ways and I kept straight on heading for Highway 1. I was curious to see where it came out. Pretty soon I was walking over an old concrete bridge which was probably the old Highway 1. After about a quarter of a mile of uphill climbing, I reached the main road. From the highway it is hard to spot the entrance to the trail. I retraced my steps to the concrete bridge and could see Tom down on the beach. When I joined him he told me there were a couple of seals on the beach. One was off to the right on the other side of New Year Creek and the other was our side and just around the edge of the cliff. This was a lone bull. The scarring on his back was very pronounced. At first I thought it was dead but by checking with my binoculars I could see that he was breathing so merely sleeping.
Striking a pose. Our first encounter with a young male elephant seal.
By 9:15 we were back at the Visitors Center in order to be ready to set off at 9:30. The earlier groups which set out comprised mostly of teenage students. Our tour though was mostly couples and small groups. At the staging post a park ranger laid down a few rules – no food, not even gum (bottled water is allowed); always stay behind the docent and never get closer than 25 feet from any of the seals. We were introduced to our docent Cheryl Wong. Along the way she dispensed lots of information spiced with humor.
Before we reached the sand dunes, Cheryl stopped and gave us a potted history of Año Nuevo, who discovered it (Sebastián Vizcaíno), the rise, fall and subsequent rise again of the elephant seal population over the years and some background of the Ohlone Indians who called this place home before the Europeans arrived and began to ‘civilize’ them. At a later stop Cheryl went into the life cycle of the seals, what they feed on and how they are able to hold their breath for such a long time under water. She circulated a small piece of hide covered in coarse fur and a whisker. The hide felt a bit rough but the whisker was amazing. I was astounded at the thickness of it.
Elephant seal at Año Nuevo. You actually get pretty close to these guys.
Our first close encounter with an elephant seal happened shortly afterward. A young bull had hauled himself out of the water and was stretched out on the path in front of us. Cheryl said he was about four years old and probably too young to breed yet. Even though we were the required 25 feet away he was aware of our presence and raised his head to look at us. Bulls this age can travel very fast and cover 25 feet in 3 seconds so we were very careful not to disturb him too much. When he opened his mouth to yawn we could see he only had a few back molars but this is quite common. Males start breeding when they are 5 years old and live until they are about 12 years old. Females on the other hand live for about 18 years.
At this point we deviated from the normal path and headed towards the beach over the dunes. We passed several other solitary seals who were basking some way from the shore. We were met by a park ranger – Officer Marty – who called herself a traffic cop. She told the docent which paths to take to avoid disturbing seals. There was another bull but much older than the first one we saw, probably nearly 12. All the while we watched him he didn’t appear to move at all and was certainly not aware of our presence.
We walked to the top of a bluff with a view down to the beach. Here we saw lots of seals – males females and pups. Most were stretched out with
They called this guy, 'Mr. Bubbles'.
just the occasional movement of their fins to scoop sand over their backs. This is to protect them from the sun. The pups stayed close to their mothers and we saw several suckling. Only about 25% will survive their first few months. Some become separated from their mothers, some are attacked by coyotes and some are crushed by the huge males. Once they are weaned and take off into the ocean to fend for themselves they are at the mercy of Great White Sharks and Killer Whales which patrol just offshore waiting to snatch them. Only 25% of the pups born this year will survive to return to this beach.
We did not see any of the males fighting. Cheryl said they were conserving their energy until the females came into season, which happens about a month after the pups have been born. From our vantage place we had a good view of Año Nuevo Island where we could see another colony of seals resting. Many years ago, when the light house was built on the island, it was possible to walk out to the island at low tide. Now, due to erosion, that is not possible and the public has no access to the island at all.
We could not stay too long at this spot because another group was due to arrive very soon. Our next stop was to observe a lone bull in a small pond half submerged in the water. Earlier Officer Marty referred to him as Mr Bubbles and we soon saw why. Elephant seals can hold their breath for a long time and when this male raised to head to take a breath and then breathed out he produced a lot of bubbles. He did this several times and it was amusing to watch. Cheryl said they like to practice holding their breath. When they are out at sea they dive very deep and have to hold their breath for about twenty minutes.
Bull elephant seal courting a female.
Our guided tour was nearly done. Just one more climb to another overlook to see another section of the beach and more seals. This time we saw an abandoned pup that had died lying on the sand. It was distressing but that’s nature. The park rangers only intervene when the problem is man made, for instance if they get caught up in fishing lines. Apart from that they are left very much undisturbed. From start to finish the tours last for two and a half hours. One hour of that is taken up with walking from the Visitors Center to the staging area and back again. For $7 a head it is real good value and today we certainly got our money’s worth due to the fantastic weather. It was a wonderful experience to see the seals at this time of the year.
Our day was not quite over though. We rounded off the day by driving into Pescadero for lunch at Duarte’s where I enjoyed a delicious bowl of artichoke soup and Tom had a cheeseburger with fries and onion rings. Then across the road to Arcangeli Grocery where we bought a loaf of their freshly baked (and still warm) artichoke garlic herb bread. Just one more stop at Harley Farms to buy some of their lavender honey goat cheese before heading home. We took the scenic route along Stage Road to San Gregorio where we turned right onto Highway 84 and headed towards Highway 280. The end of another perfect day.
January 28 2011 | Special Places | No Comments »
Oops, pardon me! Must have been that squid I had last night.
Continuing on our visit to Ano Nuevo we’re heading down the trail towards the point and the elephant seals.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
To the right of the path was a small pond. Further on there is a wooden viewing platform with information boards about the birds which frequent the pond and a couple of rare visitors which have been spotted there. Garter Snakes and the endangered the California Red-legged Frog have made their homes here.
A trail to Cove Beach is off to the left. Down below I could see the beach and I ventured a short way down but didn’t go all the way as we were anxious to see the elephant seals. A nearby sign warns you not to get too close to the cliff edge and a big information board explained about the crumbling cliffs. Another sign warned of poison oak.
About half way down the Ano Nuevo Trail is the boundary of the Wildlife Protection Area. Here is the staging area where the docent led tours commence during the December to March period. There are information boards, a bench and a restroom nearby. At this time of the year there are no restrictions, so we carried on.
The path became muddy and there were some huge puddles which we had to negotiate. The water in some of them looked oily and I wandered what caused it. Tom was worried that it was run-off from farmland further inland. At one point, a plank had been placed over one of the puddles. Then the path became sandy and soon we were climbing our first sand dune.
The first major spot to get up close to the elephant seals is at South Point. Here there was a roped off area and just beyond that lots of seals laying
Well hello there. Elephant seal pup at Ano Nuevo
about on the sand. Most of them were the pups born earlier this year. Their mums feed them for about a month and then left them to fend for themselves and they never return to them. The pups live off their fat for a couple of months. During that time they go through their first molt and then they head for the ocean. At this time, they are very vulnerable. Lurking offshore are sharks and killer whales. There were also a number of female seals on the beach. They had hauled ashore for their annual molt.
I must admit the seals have a certain smell about them. It is not particularly offensive but, on the other hand, it is not the most attractive aroma around. They are a bit noisy as well. Think of a burp and then magnify it five times. The males are very noisy and can really bellow.
We left the South Point viewing area and returned to the trail. The path became extremely muddy. When I was last here several years ago we walked all the way to North Point but that trail was closed. Today the trail ends at Bright Beach where there are two spots to view the seals. We picked the one on the right and the only other person there was a docent. Here there were a lot more seals than at South Point.
The docent, Randy Baum, spent a long time to talking to us and gave us lots of fascinating information about the seals. He explained that the seals spend most of their lives at sea. On land they look ungainly, though it is surprising how quickly they can move at times, but in the ocean they are in their element. They dive to about 2,000 feet but the record dive has been recorded at over 5,000 feet. One of the reasons they can dive so deep is because all the oxygen they need is in their blood and their body fat is compressed, allowing them to sink further. Tom noticed that one of the seals had something on its head. He thought it was a growth of some sort but Randy explained that this was an electronic device which is attached to the head to record the depth and duration of dives. When the seal molts, the device falls off and it can be recovered from the beach.
Last look at Ano Nuevo Island as we head back
As we chatted, I noticed several of the larger seals, probably four year old males, started moving towards the water. They sure can move fast for about 20 yards. Suddenly there were about six of them, all heading down the beach. Even Randy did not now why they were all on the move at the same time. Tom surmised it was because the weather had warmed up and they wanted to cool off. I reckoned they had taken bets as to who would reach the water first. I’ve seen a few seals haul themselves out of the ocean and up the beach but this is the first time I’ve seen any making their way into the water.
On the walk back to the parking lot we bypassed the route to South Beach. We walked up a dune and were confronted by a wondrous view all around. The sun had now appeared and the ocean was sparkling. The views in one direction were to the north, out to the west was Ano Nuevo Island and ahead there were views down the coast towards Monterey. We stopped at a convenient bench to admire the view for a few minutes and to bask in the sunshine.
At the end, I took a detour to go to look at what I thought was the Visitor Center but a big sign indicated it was the Marine Education Center and it was closed. I walked behind it to find another couple of buildings. One was the Old Creamery – it also had a sign announcing it was the Ranger Station – and the other was the old horse barn. An information board told me that the Marine Education Center is also the Visitor Center and that originally is was the cow barn when this was a thriving dairy farm called the Steele Ranch.
We made our way back to the car park and to headed to Pescadero for lunch. In Duarte’s we sat at the bar and consumed a marvelous crab sandwich while chatting to our neighbor. It was the end of a perfect day.
June 16 2010 | Special Places | 1 Comment »
Young Elephant Seal. I think it's a male. Is he smiling at us?
It was a Friday. Neither Tom or I were working that day so decided to go and see the elephant seals at Ano Nuevo – on the San Mateo coast.
Ano Nuevo is a State Park and the best place to see these unusual seals. They are called elephant seals because the males have long noses which resemble the trunk of an elephant. The males can grow to sixteen feet and weigh two and a half tons – about the size of a Volkswagen Bug. Elephant seals spend most of their lives in the ocean and only come ashore to breed, give birth and molt. Up to the first half of the 19th century, their numbers were prolific but from 1850 onwards they were slaughtered for their blubber. They are absolutely fearless and did not escape to the water when they were being hunted so they were easy prey. Towards the end of the 19th century it was estimated they were only 100 elephant seals left off the coast at Baja, California. In 1922 they became a protected species. Gradually their numbers have increased and the first elephant seal was spotted on Ano Nuevo Island in 1955.
The best time of the year to see the seals is between December and March when the females haul themselves ashore to give birth and the males arrive for the breeding season. During that period, visitors are restricted and reservations have to be made for access to the viewing sites which are led by docents. I have never visited Ano Nuevo at that time and it is on my wish list. The trouble is that the weekends get very booked up and as the weather is unpredictable it is always a gamble to book ahead. Tom has been during the winter and he said the sight of males fighting to protect their harem was amazing.
Back to this visit. The sun was shining and it promised to be a lovely day. We set off at 7 am and headed for the Santa Cruz mountains. As we got close to the summit, what did we see in front of us? Fog! The Santa Clara valley was bathed in sunshine behind us but as we descended towards Santa Cruz the temperature and visibility plunged.
Tom had scoped out a couple of possible destinations for breakfast but as neither opened until 8 am we had twenty minutes to kill. We drove along West Cliff Drive and found a parking spot overlooking the beach, wharf and boardwalk. Outside the car it was chilly but Tom went for a stroll.
Path out to Ano Nuevo. Looking back towards the visitors center. We're about half way there.
After a wonderful breakfast at The Samba Rock Acai Cafe in Santa Cruz we found our way to Highway 1 North and headed out of town. As it was a working day and just before 9 am, the traffic was heavy in town but once we were past the outskirts, with the ocean off to our left, there were less cars about. The sun was still not visible but we had high hopes that it would appear and burn off the fog or maybe the sky will be clearer further north.
The hills were still very green. Normally at this time of the year they would be starting to turn yellow before donning their summer hue of brown – sorry – gold. We have the recent rains to thank for that. We noticed how much more water there was in the Lexington Reservoir in Los Gatos on our journey through the mountains this morning.
North of Davenport patches of blue skies were spotted and occasionally the sun shone through. By the time we turned in the Ano Nuevo State Park the sun had disappeared again.
The park opens at 8 am and there is a $10 entrance fee. We were handed a map and drove on to the car park. Here there are picnic tables and restrooms. When we got out of the car it was chilly and I was glad I’d brought my sweatshirt.
The trail is called the Ano Nuevo Point Trail and it is easy to find. We set off down a gravel path and soon came to a fork. Off to the right is the Cove Beach via Pond Loop trail but it is closed at the moment. A sign across the path states that it is closed to protect natural resources and for the safety of the public.
Right on the fork is displayed part of an old wooden steam sailing schooner called Point Arena which sunk while unloading tanbark at Pigeon Point Light House in 1913. A five ton section of the ship washed ashore at Ano Nuevo and was uncovered by a storm in 1983. An information board nearby listed 19 shipwrecks that had occurred between Pigeon Point and Ano Nuevo from 1853-1953.
As we continued on down the trail, we could see Ano Nuevo Island offshore. 200 years ago it was attached to the mainland. In 1872 a light house was built on the island because of the number of shipwrecks. Maintaining the light house and the houses built to accommodate the light house keeper and his assistant was difficult, due to the constant onslaught by weather and the invasion of seals, sea lions and birds. In 1948 a marker buoy with an automatic light, sound and radar reflector was installed just offshore from the island. The light house is now closed to the public and the birds and sea mammals have completely overrun the buildings and they are rapidly deteriorating.
To be continued
June 10 2010 | Special Places | No Comments »
One of the fishing boats at Pillar Point Harbor
Another beautiful spring day in sunny California. Our main destination today is Franklin Point on the San Mateo Coast. As we drove towards the coast on Highway 92, the sun was rising. The slopes of the Santa Cruz Mountains were bathed in a reddish tint and everything looked glorious.
(Click the photos for larger versions)
After breakfast at the 3-Zero Cafe next to Half Moon Bay Airport, we stopped off at Pillar Point Harbor. We were looking to buy some fresh fish straight from the boats. At first I was surprised at the number of people around but then realized it was a group gathering for a whale watching boat trip. Now is a great time of the year for such a trip as the female gray whales are close to shore escorting their young calves north.
We wandered down the wharf looking to see if any boats were selling fresh fish. There was only one boat open for business but they only had Dungeness Crabs on offer.
It was very pleasant walking down the ramps and floating wharves, strolling around looking at all the fishing boats. These are definitely working boats with their decks littered with ropes, pontoons, crab cages and rusty equipment. Boats gently nudged the edge of the wharves as they rose and fell with the swell and we swayed slightly with the motion.
These fishermen have been experiencing hard times recently with the closure of the salmon fishing season for the last two years. There will be limited commercial fishing this year (just eight days in May) so soon they will be able to catch at least a little of the local king salmon, which is the best salmon ever.
Pigeon Point Light House
Onto our main destination today – Franklin Point. I know it is only a few weeks since our last visit but we were anxious to see whether the path to the beach had been restored. I want to sit on our favorite seat and gaze out across the ocean. With any luck we should spot a few whales today. Passing Pescadero State Beach we noticed, a group of people standing on the bluffs. Whale watching maybe? Then we noticed a tour bus in the parking lot. There is going to be a lot of people around today.
We did consider stopping at Pigeon Point Lighthouse but the parking lot is not very large and it was packed, plus cars were parked along the side of the road. We did stop a few hundred yards south of the lighthouse so Tom could take a picture of the lighthouse with the wild flowers in the foreground. I stayed near the car and kept my eyes peeled for water spouts. There were several boats some way offshore. They could have been fishing boats or whale watching tours. It was a beautiful spot. The view was spectacular and the sound of birds singing was background music.
Pigeon Point Light House from a different angle
Between the lighthouse and Ano Nuevo is the parking place for Franklin Point. There were no other cars there. I set off down the path, watching a hawk hunting to my right. On the path I spotted a fat orange and black furry caterpillar. Since our last visit there must have been some rain because the path was quite muddy in places.
Over the last dune and where the path abruptly ended on our last visit in February, there is now limited access to the beach. It is a steep slide down. I was grateful to arrive in one piece but how was I going to get back?
It was good to be there on the beach with the seat within walking distance. The tide was high and it didn’t look possible to get to the point along the beach where there is a path to the seat. When I reached the rocks at the end of the beach there was no way over the rocks so I went back up the beach looking for a way round. There was a tent pitched just above the high tide mark and by the amount of personal possessions scattered around it almost looks like somebody has taken up residence rather than an overnight stay.
Once on top of the bluff, I followed a beaten path. Several times I had to turn back and look for an easier path but eventually I made it. At last I was on the final boardwalk to our favorite seat. Glancing back towards the entrance to the beach, I saw Tom and we waved to each other. I settled down on the bench for a serious whale watching session. This is the perfect time and the weather is just right as well.
I didn’t have to wait long. Soon I was spotting small spouts and the occasional bigger spout. You can
Franklin Point poppies
guess how thrilled I was. Every so often I would say ‘yes’ out loud or even ‘wow’. A couple of times I saw a tail rise out of the water. I imagined there was a pod of killer whales out there hunting for the vulnerable calves. The water spouts could not be seen with the naked eye from where I sat but the binoculars brought everything into view. Pigeon Point lighthouse is further out, that may be the perfect spot for whale watching.
Tom joined me and for the next hour we stayed there – Tom taking photos, just relaxing and occasionally using the binoculars. Me – I was whale watching, writing and relaxing. It was the best of times.
Eventually we stirred ourselves and made our way back to the car. Tom had found an easier route to the seat so we followed that. There were quite a few people on the main path leading back to the highway, some people were sitting on the bluffs and looking out to sea. Everybody was enjoying this wonderful location.
On the way back to Highway 92, we stopped in Half Moon Bay to buy some fresh salmon. It was from Alaska so not quite as fresh as it would have been if we had been able to buy straight from the fishermen but until the real stuff arrives it will have to do. Along with some asparagus we bought from the shop next door, we have all the ingredients for a great BBQ.
April 27 2010 | Special Places | 1 Comment »
Today the weather forecast said it was going to be a nice day so we set off for the coast. Tom had rented an expensive Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8
Waddell Beach and lots of birds
Zoom Lens for three days and after spending time yesterday getting used to it in the backyard, he was itching to get out and use it.
We were disappointed to see fog as we backed out of the garage but by the time we joined Highway 17 and headed towards the Santa Cruz mountains, it miraculously cleared and with the sun beginning to rise, it looked like it is going to more than a nice day.
Along Highway 17, evidence of spring could be seen with lots of yellow and white blossoms brightening the roadside. After the recent rains we have had, it was nice to see the Lexington Reservoir with more water in it than we have seen for some time. The water had been so low recently that a bridge, along with a few house foundations from the towns of Lexington and Alma which were submerged when the reservoir was created, had been exposed. Let’s hope we will have lots of water for this summer.
We had planned to stop for breakfast at the Summit Roadhouse on Highway 17. When I checked online the opening time was supposed to be 6 am but when we pulled up outside at gone 7, the big ‘Closed’ sign was in the window. Thwarted again. As Tom was keen to start shooting, he didn’t want to travel around Santa Cruz looking for a breakfast place which was open, so we stopped at Peet’s in Scots Valley for coffee, hot chocolate and a muffin.
Soon we were back on the road again and heading north on Highway 1. Fog could be seen just offshore and we continually ran in and out of it.
Pelican riding the wind just over the wave tops
We pulled into the small car park at Waddell Creek and Tom was off. Although the sun was shining where we were, the visibility was not great and the temperature was 45 degrees. I decided to sit in the car and write. The tide was in and the surf high but there were no surfers around. From my viewpoint onto Waddell Beach I could see lots of gulls and when they suddenly all took flight they momentarily blocked out the sun. Looking back towards the redwoods marching to the sea in Big Basin State Park, the fog hid the tops of the trees but rays of the sun were shining through. It was a beautiful sight.
When Tom got back in the car, the first words he spoke were ‘ beautiful lens’. He then went on to talk about a conversation he had with a guy who was parked next to us. This man had been to Mavericks the day before – the 2010 Mavericks Surf Contest was being held – and he commented that the waves out at the competition site did not look as high as the waves that broke onto the beach. Tom and I had considered going along to watch the competition but several things made us decide otherwise – there were bound to be thousands of people there and viewing spots are very limited plus Tom wanted to play with the lens. Just as well really because some of those waves which broke onto the beach were really big and submerged a lot of people. Nobody was killed fortunately but there were some injuries and lots of people soaking wet and very frightened.
Next stop Franklin Point. Once again, bright sun but visibility limited. The trail, which is just sand, was damp and the tips of the marsh grass which hung over the trail were wet and soaked my pants. Catkins and buds were beginning to burst on the small trees along the way.
Along the way I met a man with his small daughter. They were staying at nearby Costanoa. He said there was not much beach to see but he and
Just some reeds along the path to Franklin Point
his daughter had bushwhacked their way along the top of the dunes and spotted a lone elephant seal in a small inlet a little way to the north.
Every time we visit Franklin Point there are small differences but today those differences were huge. As we crested the dunes at the edge of the beach, the sandy trail, which normally leads us straight onto the beach, abruptly ended. The high tides had wiped the path out. The waves were big and when they broke they lapped at the edge of the path 20 feet below us. No access to the beach today.
We avoided going too close to the edge. Sand is very volatile and can easily fall away under your feet. We didn’t fancy landing up in the water. We could see our favorite seat out on the point. To get to it we normally walk across the beach and climb up to it. Instead we decided to head north to see if we could spot the elephant seal but there was no proper trail. A beaten path of sorts could be followed for a short way but it was extremely difficult and highly dangerous.For Tom it was impossible. Not only was he carrying his tripod but the extra lens on his camera was very heavy. When I saw the footsteps in the sand right on the edge, discretion overcame valor and we gave up. Besides all this tramping off the trail is not good for the fragile environment.
We made our way back to the car. On the way Tom spotted a hawk perched on a tree stump some way away. With my binocular I could see it easily but could not identify it. It looked the same as the one we saw at Sacramento NWR just before Christmas.
On to Pigeon Point lighthouse a few miles down the road. The small car park was full so we parked on the road. Walking towards the lighthouse, I heard some people talking about Mavericks. They were staying at the hostel next to the lighthouse and had been on the beach yesterday. One man described the waves that hit the beach as a tsunami.
One last pelican off Pigeon Point Lighthouse
On the deck at the back of the lighthouse, the waves were up close and personal. Just offshore, huge waves were breaking over the rocks and the spray was spectacular. In fact, I could feel the spray and could taste salt when I licked my lips.
Tom was having fun with the rented lens. He’s so enamored of it, I’m worried he will want to buy one and I know it costs a few thousand dollars.
In between bouts of writing, I admired the view. Tom was still out on the lower deck and chatting away to the other visitors. One couple had a tripod and an odd looking camera, which they had trained on the lighthouse. When Tom returned to change his lens, I asked about the camera and he said it was a very old pinhole camera which is used to take long exposures.
For over an hour I sat on that bench, mostly watching over our equipment but it was a contented time; the crashing waves, enormous swells, fountains of spray, the frothing, seething, churning waters and the thundering surf kept me spellbound and the sun shone down. Hey ho, time to head home.
March 14 2010 | Special Places | 1 Comment »
Mail Boxes heading towards San Gregorio
Back in November last year we set out to investigate the beaches and coastal access points on the San Mateo Coast. We didn’t have time to check out Pescadero State Beach so today that is our mission.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
At 7.30 we set off from home, driving first along Interstate 280 and Highway 84 to Alice’s Restaurant on Skyline Blvd (see previous post). The weather forecast said it was going to be a nice day but we were driving through low fog up to 280. As we joined the freeway, the fog was gone. Ahead the Santa Cruz Mountains were clear, bright and bathed in early morning sunshine.
After breakfast we continued on 84 towards San Gregorio. I don’t think we have ever driven to the coast this way before. We either drive to Santa Cruz and turn north on Highway 1 or we take 280 to Highway 92 towards Half Moon Bay and then drive south on Highway 1. It is amazing how different everything looks driving the other way. It is a glorious day so that makes things look new and exciting. At San Gregorio we turned right on Stage Coach Road. We stopped so Tom could take some photos. The view looking east, with rolling green hills, grazing cattle and distant hills was magnificent.
When we hit Highway 1 we turned south, driving past San Gregorio Beach and headed to Pescadero. The ocean looked stunning. At this time of
San Gregorio valley
the year the whales are heading south on their yearly migration and although they are long way out, I kept my eyes skimmed for the odd water spout on the far horizon.
There are three car parks for Pescadero State Beach and we stopped at the first one. From here, by crossing the road, there is a nice little trail round the lagoon and up the hill. Today though we started by checking out the beach. Ours was the only car in the car park. Before we set off for the beach we filled out the self registration form and paid our $7 fee. Normal price is $8 but we both can take advantage of the seniors rate.
As we walked towards the beach the sound of the surf was music to our ears. Tom told me that there is a high surf warning at the moment and he advised me not to turn my back to the ocean if I was near the water. A young girl was swept out to sea on the Sonoma coast recently. Fortunately her parents saved her but it must have been a frightening experience for the family.
The beach is sandy and would be perfect for young children. One word of advice though, the nearest place to buy refreshments is two miles away in Pescadero so take everything you need with you. We had the place to ourselves. Tom was busy taking photos and I wandered around. There was a tiny lagoon and just one structure made from driftwood. I found a handy log to sit on and sat in the sun enjoying the view. The only thing disturbing the peace and quiet was its proximity to Highway 1 and the sound of passing cars.
We started walking south down the beach and rounded a small headland to a long stretch of sandy beach. Still nobody else around, not even a dog with its owner. There were lots of footsteps in the sand above the high watermark so there must have been plenty of visitors over the last couple of days. As we walked we smelt something rather unpleasant. Tom thought we might have walked through something a dog had left behind but the source soon revealed itself. It was a dead seal. It had been there some time and the only way we could tell it was a seal was by its flipper and the shape of the head.
There were a few more driftwood structures here. One was not very high but it covered a largish area and was open. Logs had been placed round in a sort of circle facing a bower like structure so obviously had been some sort of meeting place. It is so beautiful here. I can sit or stand, gazing out to sea for hours and hours watching the surf breaking just offshore and rolling in, with the sun catching and highlighting lots of different colors and shades in the water and watching the pelicans skimming the surface of the ocean. There are no surfers here today but I’ sure this would be a great place to come. Maybe they are all a bit further north at Half Moon Bay taking on the Mavericks. It is usually at this time of the year the famous Mavericks meet takes pace.
I noticed there were a few other people around. A group had arrived at the north end of the beach and to the south I could see a couple standing on the headland looking out to sea.
Further down the sand was strewn with driftwood. What an adventure playground this would be for children. They could spend hours building to their hearts content. I’ve always wandered where the logs come from. Some pieces are huge. Are they carried in by the tide or are they washed downhill from the mountains by the streams and creeks which flow into the ocean?
I thought we could walk all the way to the most southerly car park but it wasn’t possible. The Butano Creek empties into the ocean and it is too wide to wade through. At this point, Highway 1 is a bridge across the creek. It is possible to climb up to the highway but from where I stood it looks a bit dangerous to cross the bridge safely by foot. What we did discover in the rocks of the headland was a small archway and we watched in fascination as the surf crashed and surged through it.
End of Part 1
January 29 2010 | Special Places | 3 Comments »
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