Tomales Bay. I always liked this building.
It was raining once again when we woke up. We stayed in bed drinking coffee and tea. I read about the history of the ranch and Dogtown in a brochure found in the loft which was compiled by Anne and Russ. It contained both personal memories, photos and newspaper articles. The original inhabitants were the Coast Miwok Indians. The land became part of a Mexican land grant which was called Rancho Baulines and given to Gregorio Briones in 1846. In the 1850′s a thriving settlement named Woodville grew up around a sawmill. One of the descendents of Gregorio Briones lived on the property during the first half of the 1900′s. Lots from the Rancho Baulines began to be sold off in the 1950′s. In the 1960′s the property was bought by a couple who built the original house. There were two more owners of the property before Annue and Russ bought it in 1992 after reading a small ad in the local paper.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
Dogtown acquired it name in the latter part of the 20th century due to the number of dogs local hunters owned. In the early 1900′s the name was changed to Woodville because the residents, mostly lumberjacks and miners, wanted a more decorous name. In the early 1970′s another resident petitioned and won the right to change the name back to it’s original name of Dogtown.
This was the day of our ninth anniversary. My present to Tom was this weekend. His present to me was a lovely new watch. I lost my previous watch back in May when we were in Grass Valley for the weekend. This new watch has a titanium strap and is gorgeous.
Lying in bed I could see the bare patches in the corrals were now extremely muddy. The horses don’t seem unduly concerned about the rain. Again we heard them pawing the floor of the barn while they waited for their breakfast.
Over breakfast we discussed where to go that day. We had the same dilemma as yesterday, except all of the trails would be even muddier today. We decided to head to Point Reyes and Drakes Bay. We planned to take a walk along the beach where we would be protected from the elements as the beach does not face the open ocean.
The sun was shining when we left with lots of blue patches in the sky. It feels a bit cooler than yesterday though. Hopefully the rain would stay away until later in the afternoon. Once again we drove north along Highway 1. Everything looked clean and fresh after the recent rains but the grass is very wet. The sun makes all the difference, giving a sparkling effect as its rays reflect off drops of water on the leaves of trees and bushes.
At Olema we turned left making our way past the road to Bear Valley Visitor Center and past a road to Olema Marsh. Even though we left a lot later than usual, there were not too many cars on the road. I expect the rain had dampened the spirits of the tourists.
Mountains of oyster shells at Drakes Bay Oyster Farm
Passing Rogers Ranch brought back memories of our visit in September. We could not see any chickens out in the field today but saw some of the grass fed beef. We took the short detour to Drakes Bay Oyster Farm. The drive skirts Schooner Bay and there were quite a few ducks and coots on the water and egrets standing in the water close to shore. As we got out of the car we saw an egret very close. Too close in fact because as soon as we started to walk it flew away. It land a short way away and just behind it stood a blue heron. Tom, of course, had to take some photos.
Afterwards we walked towards the shop. Tom carried on towards the mound of oyster shells. Another photo op. I went into the shop. The oysters here were cheaper than the ones on sale at Tomales Bay Oyster Company. I told the girl behind the counter that I had never had a raw oyster and she was glad to answer my questions. She explained they came in four sizes, small, medium, large and extra large. The smaller ones are younger and best eaten raw. The larger ones are older and best cooked. She told me how to open them. Special shucking knives were on sale there but a butter knife or screwdriver would work just as well. Oysters should be opened with the side on top so the juices stay in the bottom. The knife should be inserted into the gap and worked around a bit and then twisted to open the shell fully. The oyster dies as soon as it is exposed to the air. It is attached to the shell at the bottom and this has to be cut free. They can be eaten by just swallowing them almost whole but that seems such a waste to me. How can you know what they taste like? The girl told me she likes to chew them a bit before swallowing. She also recommended serving them with a squeeze of lemon or tomato sauce. As I was determined to try oysters on this trip, I bought half a dozen small ones. The girl put them in a bag with lots of ice.
The beach at Drakes Bay. The scene hasn't changed much since the days when Sir Francis Drake landed.
Our next stop was Drakes Bay. The wind whipped the door out of my hand when I opened it so decided to put my warm, fleecy jacket on. Tom being more hardy, didn’t bother with a jacket. Even though it was chilly the sun felt warm.
I wandered down the beach, which is long, curved and sandy. Along the edge of the shore a host of birds were busy. The sanderlings were probing with their long bills into the sand and seemed to be having a lot of success. There was also a flock of dunderlings busily running around. It is so amusing to watch them. They stand near the edge of the water in a group with their backs to the water. When the next wave roles in, they wait until it has nearly reached then and then collectively they take off, running just in front of the water and chirping excitedly like day old chicks. It’s like watching a group of silly little girls who love to be frightened by the water by running away from it and squealing at the same time as though they love to be scared. I stood watching for a good ten minutes before I moved off.
The cliffs here are very fragile and resemble compacted mud. It looks very much like shale but lighter in color. It reminded me of the cliffs in Lyme Regis in the UK, which are good for fossil hunting but try as hard as I could there were no fossils between the thin layers. The rock, if that is what it is, is fragile and almost crumbles to the touch. As I walked along the bottom of the cliffs every so often there would be a clatter as a scattering of rocks came lose and tumbled down to the sand.
This is where it is reputed Sir Francis Drake spent a few months back in 1579 when he stopped on the circumnavigation of the globe to repair his ship, the Golden Hind. He wrote that the cliffs reminded him of the White Cliffs of Dover. He claimed the area for Queen Elizabeth I and named it New Albion.
Just mesmerized by the waves, the sun and Drakes Beach.
I almost had the place to myself as I wandered further on down the beach. When I came to an area with a flat rock extending into the sea I walked out onto it. It was full of little rock pools but there were no crabs or small fish lurking in them. The waves breaking just offshore were magnificent to watch, Rising and curling before toppling over, the waves rushed to the shore. It was a wonderful place to be with the sun shining down and warming me up.
Tom caught up with me and we spent about ten minutes just contemplating the crashing waves and enjoying the scenery. We then made our way back towards the car. We were walking into the wind and talking became difficult.
Back in the car park, Tom put his camera away and we walked to the cafe which is right on the beach. There is also a visitors center though we did not go inside. We did read a series of information boards in a small courtyard about Sir Francis Drake and they were interesting. In the cafe we bought a couple of hot chocolates and sat outside on the patio in the sunshine. Fortunately we were sheltered from the wind. It was great, just sitting there enjoying our drinks and soaking in the views.
Afterwards we climbed up the small headland called the Peter Behr Overlook. The climb to the top did not take long but it was very steep. The view from the top encompassed the whole Drakes Bay so the effort was worth it.
At 1.30 we started back to the ranch. For a late lunch we ate the oysters. Tom struggled valiantly to open them and I tasted my first ever raw oyster. It was not at all as I expected it. I imagined the oyster to be bigger, plumper and whiter and did not realise there would so much liqud that went with it. The liquid though tasted just like sea water. The taste of the oysters was not unpleasant but not something I would want to eat every day.
Just after 4.30 we set off towards Point Reyes Station but before we left we had to give the horses a snack. They wolfed down the carrots in no time at all. We arrived at Point Reyes Station just before 5 and filled up with gas before heading for Point Reyes Books to spend the interim time browsing books before heading to Osteria Stellina for dinner. Once again we had an amazing meal. I had roasted brussels sprouts and toasted hazelnuts to start with, followed by pork tenderloin, potato gratin and kale; finishing up with the three artisan cheese dish. Tom had something completely new for the starter – marrow bone jelly with capers and lemons. His main dish was ahi tuna with mixed vegetables and he finished up with chocolate cake. To drink Tom had a glass of red wine and I a glass of chardonnay. While I was eating the cheeses, our server brought me a glass of port as a complimentary drink. He asked Tom if he would like one as well and he of course said yes. All in all it was another fantastic meal at the Osteria Stellina and a perfect way to round off our anniversary weekend.
January 19 2011 | Special Places | No Comments »
The view from our bedroom at Woodville Ranch
During the night it rained heavily. Several times we woke up and each time we could hear the rain steadily falling. It was so nice to be snuggled up in bed.
At 7 we were woken by the sound of the horses moving below us in the barn. It was breakfast time for them. Outside it was still overcast and we could hear water dripping from the eaves but the heavy rain had ceased.
We decided to go into Bolinas for breakfast. There is only one cafe in the town – The Coast Cafe- and that is where we headed. We have had breakfast here several times but it must be under new management. It’s called brunch now not breakfast and the menu has definitely gone upmarket. I had French Toast with organic pears with a side of apple chicken sausage and Tom had Fish Tacos. Our food was good if a little pricey.
When I planned this weekend, it was with the idea that we could be doing a lot of hiking. But the rain during the night made a change of plan necessary. All the trails would be too muddy now. We ended up taking a drive north along Highway 1 to Bodega Bay.
Our first stop was by the Bolinas Lagoon. The day was beginning to brighten up and there were bits of blue sky to be seen. The outside temperature was only 52 degrees though. The lagoon was beautiful. This time our view had the hills in the background.
Our next stop was just before the Woodville Ranch. I wanted to get a photo of the green Dogtown sign (see part 1 for a photo of the sign). The population was originally 30 but it had been crossed out several times. The total population is now 33.
The views towards Olema and Point Reyes Station were outstanding. The recent rains had turned the grass green. On one side of the road is the Point Reyes Natural Seashore and on the right the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Everything is pristine. We drove through Olema and then Point Reyes Station, the latter being busier than the former. Today Point Reyes Station were holding its weekly farmers market. All along the way were trail heads. Point Reyes is a walker’s paradise. So many places to explore.
Tomales Bay Oyster sign along Highway One
We stopped at the Tomales Bay Oyster Company where it was a hive of activity. Oysters were being brought in from the beds, placed into large tanks to be rinsed and then sorted into sizes. A dozen small oysters sell for $10 and a dozen large for $18. The oyster beds are out in the bay and are clearly marked with colored buoys. We were chatting with one of the oyster sorters. They were expecting a busy day. The sun was shining and they were planning on a lot of customers that day. They have lots of picnic tables, all with their own BBQs. I guess people come, buy the raw oysters, cook them and then eat them. In fact several groups were already arriving and laying claim to their tables and starting to light BBQs.
Highway 1 swings inland for a bit and we were driving along by the side of a creek. In the small town of Tomales we took a detour to go see Dillon Beach. There were some amazing views of the Point Reyes headland and the entrance to Tomales Bay. We stopped by some rock formations so Tom could take photos. I stayed in the car because I could hear the wind whistling around the car.
It didn’t take long from there to reach Dillon Beach. It is a small town with narrow streets. There was only one place to park but the charge was $7, which seemed an awful lot of money for a five minute stop. We carried on driving to the end of the road and ended up at Lawson’s Landing. The road dead ended at a trailer park with an entrance fee. We turned around. Driving back through Dillon Beach, we had to slow down to negotiate a couple of the bends because two pickups towing trailers were taking up most of the road.
Instead of retracing our steps to Tomales, we took a short cut back to Highway 1 along Valley Ford Road. This time the spectacular views were inland and we could see for miles. At the small hamlet of Valley Ford we turned right onto Highway 1.
Western sandpipers hunkering down waiting for the storm to arrive.
Bodega Bay is a strange place. We never found a downtown as such with shops. Along the shore there were lots of restaurants with their own parking lots but there was nowhere we could stop to look around. We drove to the end of the town and then turned towards Bodega Head. We did park for a while in the marina but didn’t stay long. The weather was beginning to deteriorate. At a small inlet at the beginning of the marina was a mud flat. A host of water and wading birds were busy searching for food but what amazed us were a flock western sandpipers. At first they were difficult to spot as they blended in with the vegetation but they were all standing facing in the same direction and hardly moving. They were bracing themselves for a storm.
We headed back to Dogtown. The rain started to come down as soon as we left Bodega Bay. We could see down towards Tomales Bay a huge rain cloud and the rain falling in the distance. We thought about the Tomales Bay Oyster Company and thought they would not be too happy.
In Point Reyes Station we stopped to buy food for our evening meal. We bought wine, olive oil, spinach and bread at the Palace Market on the main street; cheese at the the Cowgirl Creamery on 4th Street and a small filet mignon and a rib eye steak in the Marin Sun Farm butcher’s shop.
Tom cooked our meal and it was superb. We finished the bottle of wine and chatted while the rain beat down. We were content.
January 13 2011 | Special Places | No Comments »
Dogtown, California. Population 30, oops, I mean 33
For an anniversary surprise I booked a weekend away in Dogtown. Everybody I told had no idea where Dogtown was. In fact I had never heard of it until I picked up a book at Point Reyes Books in Point Reyes Station on our last visit. It was called ‘The Dogtown Chronicles – Our Life and Times with Sheep, Goats, Llamas, and other Creatures’ by Doris Ober. It was a fascinating read about a couple in Dogtown and their animals. When I went online to find out more about Dogtown, I found a vacation rental, The Loft at Woodville Ranch, and decided it would be the perfect location to spend our anniversary.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
Where is Dogtown I hear you ask? It is on Highway 1 just north of Bolinas. When we set off after the rush hour on Friday morning, Tom had no idea where we were heading. After crossing the Golden Gate Bridge, I told him to take the Highway 1 exit towards Stinson Beach. That narrowed the choice of our eventual destination.
The forecast for the weekend was not very promising. Rain was likely Saturday, Sunday and Monday. That Friday morning it was overcast and once in Marin it started to rain.
We stopped at the Pelican Inn for a drink and hurried inside out of the rain. The Pelican Inn is the nearest to a British pub I’ve seen in California. The bar is small and the furniture, with its pew like seats around the wall and small round wooden tables, feels like home away from home. The barmaid even knew what a shandy was without me having to explain how to make it. On the walls were black and white photos of the Royal family from a few years ago. A sign in the restroom amused me which warned that the plumbing was ‘Authentic English Tudor style.’ Obviously tongue in cheek as there was no such thing as plumbing in Tudor times. A mass communal pit would have been more authentic.
The beautiful Bolinas Lagoon
It had stopped raining by the time we left The Pelican Inn and we enjoyed the ride along Highway One. The road twisted and turned with occasional glimpses of the ocean. Even though it was still overcast we were able to see the Farallon Islands quite clearly.
Tom thought our destination would be Stinson Beach but we drove straight through. The tide was in and the Bolinas Lagoon was full. It was an amazing ride driving the length of the lagoon and observing all the birds on the water. We drove past the turning to Bolinas and Tom was puzzled. Where else was there to go? The next stop, he thought, was Olema.
When I saw the small green sign which announced we were entering ‘Dogtown – population 30, I told him to get ready to turn left. Then when I saw the sign saying ‘Woodville Ranch’ I asked Tom to turn into the drive. We had arrived. To the left stood the main house and ahead was the barn. Our home for the next three days would be the loft above the barn.
The Loft at Woodville Ranch. Beautiful setting, beautiful place. Everything was perfect.
We knocked at the door of the main house. The door opened and Anne Sands greeted us. She took us to the barn and showed us the loft. On the way we saw the beautiful Arabian horses who reside there. The loft is a marvelous place – long and with lots of windows. At each end there are long windows which stretch from the ceiling nearly to the floor. In the bedroom, a four poster bed and antique furniture. There was a full size kitchen, a small eating area and a sitting room. Everything you could wish for in a holiday home.
Anne explained that there were a couple of stores in Bolinas, including a co-op behind the community hall which sold local organic produce. I asked about nearby walking trails and she showed me some beautiful, hand drawn maps of the property and surrounding area. There were a couple of trails on the property and many more in Point Reyes National Seashore.
After we’d settled in, we drove into Bolinas along Mesa Road. One of the maps was of Bolinas and showed that the Coastal Trail starts at the end of Mesa Road. Mesa Road turns into a gravel roadway running past the Point Reyes Bird Observatory and ended in a car park. We ventured only a little way along the trail. We would have liked to have gone further as it looked interesting but we thought it was gong to rain. We did go of on a short spur which led to a fabulous view from the top of a ridge overlooking the ocean. The Farallon Islands, although still visible, were slowing disappearing into the mist.
Foot of a giant prehistoric creature or the trunk of a eucalyptus tree?
We felt raindrops as we made our way back to the car and we were able to reach it before we got too wet. When we got to the sign for the bird observatory I noticed it said ‘Visitors Welcome’, so we turned into the driveway. At the end was a car park and a Visitors Center. Inside there was a lot of information of the work they do there to catch and band birds. They use a misting net. Most mornings the activities can be viewed but not at 4 in the afternoon unfortunately. We walked around the small museum with, amongst other things, a collection of bird skulls. On display were the skulls of a pelican right down to a hummingbird. It was amazing to see how small and fragile the skull of a hummingbird is. They also have guided bird tours from time to time. We plan to return for another visit sometime.
Back in Bolinas we found the co-op where we bought some organic carrots for the horses. Feeling hungry, we went to the Coast Cafe for an early dinner but unfortunately it was closed.We went a nearby store and asked if they knew what time it opened and were told 5 o’clock. By this time it had started to rain in earnest and we did not really want to hang around for three quarters of an hour until the cafe opened. We decided to buy some food in the store and returned to the loft to cook our own supper. Earlier we had bought a dozen eggs from Anne and with an onion, a large potato and some mushrooms we made and enjoyed an omelet.
We spent a cozy evening watching a DVD and listening to the pounding rain outside. We wandered whether we would be able to get out for a walk the next day or whether the rain was set in for the weekend. We retired to our marvelous comfy bed for an early night.
January 09 2011 | Special Places | No Comments »
North Beach in the Point Reyes National Seashore
Back in August Tom emailed me an article from Bay Area Bites written by Stephanie Rosenbaum. Marin Sun Farms’ philosophy is their livestock are 100% grass fed and pasture raised. To pass the message on, they conduct tours of their farm every month from spring until the end of September. It looked interesting, so we booked a tour.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
Early on a weekday morning we set off. It was still dark and an enormous moon hung low in the sky. We took Highway 280 north. As it was officially the rush hour, we were expecting a lot more traffic than we normally experience on a weekend. Yes, there was more traffic, but we were able to travel at our normal pace until we reached 19th Avenue in San Francisco at the end of 28o. Obviously there was more traffic heading south.
We have come prepared for all kinds of weather. In the directions we were advised to dress in layers. As it is a walking tour, we took the precaution of wearing hiking boots.
When the sun came up we knew it was going to be a beautiful day. There was a little bit of fog about but once we had driven across the Golden Gate Bridge, the day just got better and better.
In Fairfax we stopped for breakfast. Afterwards we took a short walk around Fairfax village. There were lots of eating places, all unique, and many interesting shops.
At 8.30 we set off again towards Point Reyes Station driving along Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. The going was a bit slow through Fairfax due to rush hour and there were lots of children making their way to school. Once past Fairfax, the road became really scenic. Lots of trees, some of which were redwoods, and lots of wonderful views. Before long we were in the Point Reyes National Seashore which is a pristine and protected area and one of the jewels of California. Point Reyes is really a special place. There is nothing else like it. Maybe because it is totally unique. After all, this is where the Pacific Plate, on which Point Reyes sits, is slowly moving north and, in the process, is slowly grinding along the edge of the North American Plate, on which most of California sits. The whole of Point Reyes used to be much further south and that explains why the geography is so different from the mainland. Not that Point Reyes is an island of course, as there is no bridge to reach it.
We drove through Olema and, still keeping to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, we took the road to the lighthouse. The meeting time was 10 a.m sharp but of course we arrived at Rogers Ranch, which is very close to the Estero Trail, at 9:15. We continued driving towards the lighthouse to while away some time. The weather is a little different here. The sun is shining but the temperature has dropped to 55 degrees and it was breezy.
Before we reached the lighthouse, we took the turning to North Beach. Neither of use has been here so it was like a mini adventure. The road dead ends in a big car park. We had the place almost to ourselves. There is a long sandy beach and a few fishermen were at the edge of the shore and a host of seagulls were screeching and squalling. It is a very exposed location and the wind whipped around.
Dave Evans of Marin Sun Farms
At 9.45 we headed back towards Rogers Ranch and arrived in good time. There were a few other cars around so thought more people had arrived. It turned out there were two other people already there. The four of us stood around for a while waiting in the car park. Just after 10 Dave Evans, the owner of Sun Hill Farm, sauntered out of his house holding a coffee cup in his hand. He said we would wait for a short while for more folks to turn up. 22 people had signed up for the tour. He chatted away about his interest in sustainable farming. By 10:30 four other people had joined us. Did all the others get lost I wonder?
Dave told us that he was raised on the nearby H Ranch. His grandparents and parents were traditional dairy farmers but after he went to college to study Farm Management he became interested in grass fed beef and using no chemicals. He disliked the idea of cattle being fattened up on feedlots where they were corn fed, kept in small pens and pumped full of antibiotics. Cows are built to eat grass not corn. His dream was to run a sustainable farm. He became inspired by the idea of running a sustainable farm and raising beef just on grass through from calving to slaughtering.
He knew where to start and finish but the bit in the middle – the fattening up part – had to be worked out. He had a two year association with Bill Niman of Niman Ranch. Bill Niman is no longer connected with Niman Ranch and runs a small farm in nearby Bolinas where he raises cattle, goats and turkeys. He and Dave are still friends. In 1999 Dave started Marin Sun Farms with 25 head of beef. Since then he has signed up other historic ranches on Point Reyes and farms from further afield who raise grass fed beef.
Eight week old laying hens at Marin Sun Farms
Dave went into the history of the area. For thousands of years Point Reyes has been a pastoral settlement. The Miwok Indians were the first to gather, fish and hunt here, when the tule elk roamed freely and grizzly bears abounded. By the beginning of the 19th century the Spanish government were giving out land grants for the expansion of cattle ranching on the peninsula. In 1857 the law firm of Shafter, Shafter, Park and Heydenfeldt obtained over 50,00 acres of farmland on Point Reyes and set up the dairy farms now known as the A – Z historic ranches. It was a very successful operation with large quantities of best quality butter and cheese being shipped into San Francisco. In 1962 the Point Reyes National Seashore was formed and the land was acquired through eminent domain. David’s family lease the land back from the Park Service. David now leases Rogers Ranch which his uncle used to farm.
David’s story and his approach to farming was fascinating to listen to. I glanced at my watch and saw that David had been talking almost non stop – apart from someone asking the odd question – for an hour and a half. All that time we had been standing in the same place. It was time to actually see around the farm. We walked past the house and dairy barn which were built in 1943 and David pointed out a bee hive. He explained that water for the farm comes from well and spring water and he plans to go solar.
Our first stop was at the Brood House which contains the one and two week old chicks. They arrive as day old chicks and stay in the Brood House for three weeks. The temperature inside must be kept at a constant level. To ensure there are no drafts, every crack in the old wooden building has been covered with insulating material. He opened the door for us to look inside. We could not see very much from outside but could hear the chicks chirping away. These chicks would be for raised for meat not eggs. When they are big enough they will be transferred to bigger cages which can be transported to the field. There they will be able to graze on the grass. Every day the cages are moved so they have fresh grass. Chickens raised for meat are not very adventurous and do not want to roam very far.
Eggs from Marin Sun Farms ready to be washed
Our next stop was large wooden building where the eight week old laying hens were kept. They had plenty of room to move about and when the door opened several of them managed to get out of the door but they didn’t get far. When the hens are ready to lay eggs they are transferred to mobile chicken houses which, like the meat birds, are moved out to the pasture and moved every day. The difference here though is that every day the doors are opened and they are free to roam where they will. They are guarded during the day by a large white Great Pyrenees dog whose job it is to protect them from predators. The chickens scratch around in the grass and feed on insect and larva. In the middle of the mobile chicken house are the nesting boxes. The floor of the houses are made out of open metal work so all the chicken droppings fall through and fertilize the pasture underneath.
On our way out to the fields we were shown the Egg Processing Room. Trays of eggs were stacked high. The eggs are collected twice and day and brought to this room to be washed and packed. They are sold at farmers markets for $7 a dozen. As we carried on up the path, Dave pointed out the electric fence and we were warned not to touch it as it carried 900 volts, enough to give us quite a jolt. While we were walking, he was explaining the life cycle of grass and what happens when a field is over grazed.
Marin Sun Farms. We had a wonderful time and learned a lot about sustainable farming.
We finished the tour by driving a couple of miles down the road to look at some of his dairy cattle out in a field which had a couple of radio masts in a fenced off area. Dave said the masts were used for ship to shore communication. There were about 50 cows in the field, including Hereford, Angus, Short Horns and a couple of Blue Short Horns. They were all pregnant and due to calve in March. Although we are nearly into October there is still plenty of grass for them to feed on.
At 1:00 the farm tour ended. Tom and I made our way back to Point Reyes Station to have lunch at the Marin Sun Farms butchers shop and cafe just outside the town at 10905 Shoreline Highway 1. Not only can you buy genuine grass fed meat at a reasonable price but they also make the best hamburgers ever. We ordered a beef burger with cheddar and house-smoked bacon, and a goat burger topped with caramelized onions. They were served with a delicious green salad and a pickle. They both looked so wonderful we cut them in two and had half each.
It was a very educational and interesting day and it was refreshing to hear someone who is so passionate about what he does. The farm tours start up again next spring so, if you want the same experience, be sure to check online next year.
November 13 2010 | Special Places | No Comments »
After a couple of weekends doing other things, we were back on the road again. At 5.30 we set off for Point Reyes. No breakfast blog today as we ate at home. I have been making Sleepy Morning Oatmeal and have been having that instead of stopping somewhere. I got the recipe from Johnsie who runs the Pomaika’i (Lucky) Farm B on the Big Island.”
Tomales Bay and the top of Mt. Tam in the clouds. (Oops, Photon points out that it's not Mt. Tam it's Black's Mtn. Thanks!)
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
Since the clocks sprang forward it was really been dark when we set out and the sky did not lighten up until we reached San Francisco. The top of the Golden Gate Bridge was lost in fog and we did wander whether it would be the same on Point Reyes. Over the previous week the weather had been glorious with temperatures up in the 70′s and this weekend promises to be just as warm. We brought jackets, though, just in case.
Driving through Marin the residents were beginning to wake up. A few early morning joggers and dog walkers were out and about. Beyond Lagunitas the first redwoods appeared and then signs for Point Reyes National Seashore. We were almost there.
Another view of Tomales Bay
As we rounded the southern end of Tomales Bay, we noticed that there was far more water around. Obviously the tide was at its highest. We pulled in behind The Inverness Store to take a look at our favorite disintegrating boat. It was impossible to get as close as we did in November last year when we stayed nearby for the weekend. Tom took some photos of the Bay and Mount Tam, with its peak hidden by fog.
Beyond Inverness we turned right, heading towards Tomales point instead of the light house. Soon we were in open countryside, passing the occasional historic ranch. Dairy farming is still very much a going concern judging by the many cows grazing in the fields. Each ranch we passed seemed to be raising a different breed.
Off to our left we caught glimpses of the ocean and all around were flowers in bloom. Wildflowers is one of the reasons for our trip today. After so much rain, we were expecting to see a lot of color. The predominant color though on the road to Tomales Point was the white of the cow parsley. In the past, Tomales Point trail has been a good place to see a vivid display of color.
Once across a big cattle grid, we were on the Tule Elk Reserve and we soon spotted our first group of elk and up on the crest of a hill a magnificent
Tule Elk at the reserve in Point Reyes
stag was standing in splendid isolation. Tom stopped to get some photos and was soon lost to view. When he returned to the car he said he didn’t see the stag again but had a very nice view of Tomales Bay. He also complained about the number of bugs around. Here in Claifornia we are not used to a lot of bugs but I guess the warm, wet spring has a lot to do with the increase. Note from Tom: Be mindful of the elk pasture patties. Lots of elk = lots of poop.
Further along the road there was a group of about ten female elk close to the edge of the road. Once again Tom stopped. He was able to get some good shots even though they had moved off a little way as our car approached.
We passed the Pierce Point Ranch and drove to the end of the road which was the car park for the trail down to McLures Beach. Click here for a link to all of the Point Reyes beaches. Neither of us has ever been to this beach so we decided to go take a look. The sandy trail descended gradually. Along the way there were many wildflowers – yellow lupin like flowers, orange California poppies, lilac and white stock like flowers, small purple ground cover plants, bright spiky ice plants and purple vetch. The beach was wild and almost deserted. There was a small group of gulls and about a dozen sanderlings. It is amusing to watch the latter as they follow the receding surf and then turn and quickly mince away as the next little wave surges up the beach.
California Golden Poppy
There were two lots of footsteps in the sand heading north. In the distance I could see two fisherman at the edge of the water. I walked back towards the trail and sat on a large weathered piece of driftwood to catch up on my writing. Tom was busy with his camera and tripod. The sun wasn’t visible at all so it was not very warm plus there was a stiff breeze. At least there is no fog but off in the distance the view is hazy.
I ventured after Tom and discovered some rock pools. Even though I searched, I could not see any fish or even small crabs. There were no sea anemones fastened to the rocks either but it was good fun to clamber over the seaweed covered rocks.
Walking back up the trail seemed much steeper than the descent but there was much to distract me along the way. I looked more closely at the colorful plants and wished that I could identify them all. I tried to take some close up photos so I could look them up when I got home but they did not turn out too good at all.
We drove out of the car park and back up the road for a quarter of a mile and then turned left into the car park of Pierce Point Ranch. As I got out of the car I saw a photo of a woman posted on a notice board and went to have a closer look. It was a flier about Katherine Truitt, a 37 year old resident of Alameda, who had gone missing on January 8 this year. Her car was discovered in the parking lot at McClures Beach. It is assumed she was struck by a rogue or sneaker wave and swept out to sea. Back home I checked to see whether her body had been recovered but so far it has not. While searching I read that another woman – Silvia Lange, a 77 year former volunteer at Point Reyes National Seashore, also went missing 13 days later but this time further south. There are many warnings posted around at Point Reyes about the dangers of getting too close to the ocean so my guess is these two disappearances, though tragic, are just coincidences.
Pierce Point Ranch is not a working ranch now but not only was it the first ranch to be established on Point Reyes it was also the
Pierce Point Ranch
largest. It was built in mid 1800′s and all of the buildings are still standing. There is a self guided tour around the hay barn, one room school house, calving shed, bunk houses and creameries although the only building you can walk through is the hay barn.
I first visited here with Tom about ten years ago and everything looked so much better than it does now. All the buildings need a coat of paint and basic maintenance but I guess the current economic situation has not helped.
There is a trail from here called the Tomales Point Trail and Tom and I have walked it several times. We had every intention of walking it today but the diversion to McClures Beach has not left us enough time. It has been a long time since breakfast and our tummies are growling.
We headed for Point Reyes Station in search of food. On the road between Pierce Point Ranch and Inverness we passed many bikes. The cyclists wore vests which proclaimed they were in training for the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society.
In Point Reyes Station we looked around for somewhere to eat. Osteria Stellina opens for lunch at 11.30 so we decided to give them a try. We had dinner here a few months ago and we both really enjoyed it. We had a few minutes to kill before it opened so we went to the bank and on the way back to the restaurant Tom spotted a jacket he quite fancied.
Lunch was great. For starters Tom had asparagus and lemon and I had the beets and greens salad with ricotta cheese. We both had the GBD with aged Gruyere cheese. I did ask what GBD stood for and was told ‘Golden Brown and Delicious’. It certainly lived up to its name and worth all the extra calories. We drove home feeling replete and happy.
April 16 2010 | Special Places | 3 Comments »
Saturday Afternoon and Evening
We took a break from visiting artists’ studios by driving into Point Reyes Station. There were four things we wanted to do. The first was to find
Tamales Bay at Point Reyes
an ATM. Buying the bowl wiped us out of cash. Our second errand was to buy some cheese. Point Reyes has many dairy farms and cheese, along with oysters, are what the area is famous for. On Third Street is the Tomales Bay Food Company. It is a small selection of shops selling food from the area. At 1.30 on the Saturday it was packed. There were many cheeses to choose from and I could not decide which one to buy. In the end I chose a small selection from Cowgirl Creamery an a bag consisting of their Original Blue, Matos’ St George, Mt Tam and a goat cheese called California Crottin. The bag also contained bread and butter pickles but I misread it assuming there was bread and butter inside not knowing that there was such a thing as bread and butter pickles. I still have a lot to learn.
Tom and I sat outside on a bench and sampled the Matos’ St George cheese and watched what was going on. There were lots of people sitting on the grass eating their picnics and children were playing. More and more people were arriving to shop. Amongst all this, a young man was balanced on top of a four foot post performing some sort of Kung Fu exercise. For about fifteen minuts he carried on totally engrossed while people walked past, just giving him a casual glance. Hey, this is Marin and that’s what folks do round here. Just another day in Point Reyes Station.
Our next task, and the most important some would say, was to get a drink. Opposite Toby’s Feed Barn, where they hold a farmers market every Saturday, is The Western Saloon and this is where we headed. Outside Osteria Stellina – where we will be eating tonight – there were people waiting for tables but The Western had only a few customers. We took a seat at the bar and ordered a couple of beers. The lady who served us didn’t appear very friendly at first but she warmed up when we asked if she was serving when Prince Charles and Camilla came into the bar four years ago. She certainly was and told us all about it. Tom and I were in Point Reyes Station that day and were standing in the crowd outside the bar. It was a big occasion for us. It is the first time Tom had ever seen any of the Royals and I got to shake hands with both the Prince and his Duchess.
Our last visit was to the Pelican Gallery on the main street. A lot of people were walking round clutching the Point Reyes Open Studios brochure but the Pelican Gallery was not part of it and therefore not very busy. Inside the gallery were lot of large photos printed onto canvas and there were quite a few I would not mind hanging on my wall.
Back on the road again and there were just two more studios to visit today. They first was to Bruce Mitchell, the wood sculpture, who we missed earlier on. His studio was located in Sherwood Road. Bruce specializes in large sculptures and bowls. In the garden outside were a few of his bigger pieces. They are nice but not for us. Where would be put it if we bought one? Also outside he had a large work area with a sawpit. Inside there were more large sculptures and a lot of bowls. I circled the studio studying his bowls and some of them were really nice. There are made out of many different types of wood. It was interesting to observe the different grains in them. I had the urge to pick them up just to run my hands over their surface and to bury my nose inside to smell them, but resisted.
Our very last studio visit was right opposite our B&B so we parked the car and walked across the footbridge over the creek in the middle of Inverness Way. Abbie Durkeee uses mixed media in her paintings. Her studio is also her house so you walk straight into her front room. Several of Abbie’s paintings are displayed on the walls of her sitting room and every one of them told a story. One told the story of her grandmother and displayed a photo of Abbie as a young girl, a loaf of bread, a jar of bread and butter pickles (what a coincidence) and lots of butterfly wings fixed to the bottom third. Abbie collected the wings when she was cycling on the Big Island in Hawaii. Monarch Butterflies migrate to Hawaii and a lot must perish. She said there were millions of wings lying around and in a car they would not have been seen but when you are are riding a bike you see much more. Abbie picked up a discarded Marlborough cigarette box and placed the wings inside. The box protected the wings form being damaged as she continued her ride. Butterfly wings represent family and community to Abbie. Just off the living room is Abbie’s workroom and there was a canvas she was working on and other projects in works. Everything looked highly organized. As we were leaving she us she has a completely different display each day.
Another view of Tamales Bay
Next door to Abbie at 2 Inverness Way we noticed a sign which said ‘Shaker Shops West’ so we went inside to have a look. There were many Shaker items and gadgets like kitchen utensils, coat hooks and children’s toys plus Shaker chairs, tables and a chest. The furniture is well designed, functional and appealing but also very expensive.
Back to the B&B for a spot of relaxation before heading back to Point Reyes Station for dinner. The fresh cookies were out in the sitting room and I picked up a couple as we walked past. They were delicious.
At 5.45 we turned up at Osteria Stellina only to be told our reservation was for 6.30. It was a very busy place with all the tables occupied and people waiting, so we went off to find some amusement before returning at the appointed time. For ten minutes we browsed the books in Point Reyes Books but it closed a 6. There was nothing else to do but to return to the car and listen to the radio for half an hour.
At 6.30 we tried again and only had to wait five minutes before our table was ready. It was not the best table in the house because people were constantly knocking the back of Tom’s chair when they walked past and every time the door opened I got a blast of cold air but these are the only negatives of the whole experience. The chef and owner is Christian Caiazzo. Originally he worked in high profile restaurants in New York and San Francisco but had to give up when he was in a bad car accident. After some painful rehabilitation he moved to Point Reyes Station where he first work at Cowgirl Creamery and then opened a coffee bar before opening Osteria Stellina.
To start with Tom had half a dozen sweetwater oysters. They were served in their half shells on a bed of ice with a cocktail sauce and a lemon flavored dipping sauce. I had roasted brussels sprouts and walnuts. Both were lip smackingly good. For Tom’s main course he had braised goat and I had Osso Buco with mashed potatoes and kohlrabi and broccoli rabe. Tom said the goat was very good. Mine was delicious. To finish Tom had the flourless chocolate desert and I had the cheese selection which consisted of three local cheeses – a soft goats cheese and two from the Cowgirl Creamery (Mt Tam and Red Hawk) served with a membrillo (quince preserve) and bread & butter. It was all washed down with a couple of carafes of house red. We both came to the same conclusion – it was the best dinner we’ve enjoyed for some time.
We were in the restaurant for nearly two hours but never realized it had been that long as we were having the time of our lives. The end of another perfect day.
January 13 2010 | Special Places | No Comments »
Another of that boat. There's something about Point Reyes that's magical.
Part 2 (Saturday Morning)
Tom was up very early. It was just after 5 and still dark but he was eager to get out and take some photos. I turned over and went back to sleep.
He returned, very cold, two hours later. I asked whether he had been able to take any photos in the dark. He had tried taking some long exposures shots of the stars but he didn’t think they were too successful When it started to get light he went down to the old wood boat marooned on the mudbank just a few minutes walk from our B&B. The tide was in and he hoped he had managed to get some good shots of the boat and its reflection in the water.
Coffee is available down in the sitting room from 7.30 but breakfast is not until 8.30. We went down for coffee – well Tom had coffee and I had tea – and we read the paper. There were already a few guests there and we chatted sporadically with them. One couple were from Mountain View, which is quite close to where we live. At breakfast we shared a table with Craig and Jenny who were from Campbell which is only a couple of miles from our home. Breakfast consisted of cereal, fruit, orange juice, yogurt and a cooked dish. It was very tasty.
After breakfast we went out for a short walk. We set out to find a trail but ended up walking up
A little windy but still a beautiful day.
Inverness Way and around a few blocks and then alongside the bay before making our way back to the B&B to change into our walking shoes. Then we set off in the car, driving north along Sir Francis Drake Blvd. It was only 10.30 so once again had time to kill. We parked on a gravel pull-in by Chicken Ranch Beach and took a walk along the beach. The tide was ebbing but it was still pretty high. Last time we came here we were able to walk north along the beach and under the numerous piers that have been built into Tomales Bay. Today we had to content ourselves by walking south. There were several fishermen along the edge of the water and though we didn’t see anybody catch anything, we noticed the tail of a fish sticking out of a bag. It looked like a tiger shark. Near three fishermen was a very wet black lab with a tennis ball in its mouth. He came up to me and dropped the ball at my feet. I asked if it was OK to throw the ball and one replied that it wasn’t their dog, it had just appeared. So I threw the ball a couple of times to please him. At one point he was stood on a slope and when he dropped the ball, it rolled into the water. When he looked down and saw the ball had gone he looked at me as much as to say, “well, how did you manage to throw the ball without me seeing you?” It didn’t take him long to find it again.
At 11 we returned to the car and set off for our first studio of the day. This was at the home of Philip Loring Greene and his wife. His speciality is Ilfochrome photography. Egrets and herons are his passion and he has some stunning photos of them. There were a couple of other people there and while his wife – who plays the harpsichord by the way – served us hot apple cider, Philip demonstrated how he developed his photos. It sounded very long and tedious and one has to admire his patience. It can take two weeks to produce one print.
The next studio we missed altogether, though not intentionally. It was difficult to find. I should have looked at the brochure more carefully because it said that access was through the Inverness Valley Inn.
We drove on to the next studio which belonged to Molly Prier. She makes functional ceramics and Pueblo style vessels. Molly’s studio is not very large and only half a dozen people could fit in at any one time. Her burnished bowls were very beautiful and felt smooth to the touch. She fires them by digging a trench and covering them with cow dung. When the fire dies down, the pit is covered with soil. It takes a long time to finish the pots. Though we were tempted to buy one, we didn’t succumb. Just down the road was the joint studio of Shari Miler, who makes creative jewelry – which we were not interested in – and Peter Sheremeta, who makes stoneware pottery and garden vessels. Outside were some of his garden pots. They were round and the bottom is shaped into three legs. The legs are open at the bottom to allow water to drain away – what a novel idea. Inside were the studios were his bowls. They were mostly round and in vibrant colors. Tom fell in love with one so he bought it. It is a Christmas present for his daughter. Peter demonstrated it’s perfect construction by tapping it and it gave the sound of a bell being struck. He showed us one which didn’t make that sound and he said it must have a crack in it but it didn’t now where it was.
A winding road through the woods to another studio.
The next studio on the list belonged to the wood sculptor, Bruce Mitchell but we missed the turning, so we carried on to the next one. We turned up Drakes View. It is a private road but as the sign definitely pointed that way, we carried on. The road climbed up and up and there were some really sharp horseshoe bends. We really thought we had taken the wrong road but then we saw a sign for the studio, so we knew we were headed in the right direction. On and up we climbed, passing some really nice houses. The Richard Blair and Kathleen Goodwin studio is right at the top of a hill and it was one that was badly damage by the 1995 Bolines Range fire. In fact Richard and Kathleen only had a cabin then and it burned down. Now they have built a lovely home which is also their studio. They are both photographers b ut Kathleen also does paintings and Richard produces books. I particularly liked some of Kathleen’s photos. One was of the raft moored offshore at Shell Beach and the other of a group of men in a bus shelter in Alysham.
We walked out of the studio, crossed the road and walked down a short track between some trees to look at the fabulous view down over Tomales Bay. It was a lovely sunny day but there was a chill in the air and the wind could be heard soughing through the trees. Tom pointed out how far the fire had travelled down the hill. You did distinctly see the break between the old and new growth of trees.
We returned to the car and drove down the hill again but turned on onto Upper Robert Drive where we visited the studio of Ed Stetson. This was the only place we stopped at where we were the only visitors. The studio was in the beautiful home of Ed and his wife with a commanding view of Tomales Bay. Ed is a photographer and uses a digital camera to shoot wildlife. He has captured some amazing shots – one of a Marsh Hawk carrying a vole in its talons; one of what he calls ‘sand trees’ taken on Limator Beach and one of a pelican trying to get friendly with a wooden statue of a pelican. Tom and Ed had a long conversation about printing techniques, Photoshop and matting. It is interesting to pick up hints and tips from other photographers.
More to follow…..
January 09 2010 | Special Places | No Comments »
Tom and I are off to Point Reyes for the weekend to celebrate our anniversary. We have booked into a B&B in Inverness for two nights. The main
Old fishing boat, "Point Reyes".
reason for choosing Point Reyes is to tour the Open Studios of the local artists. Twenty studios will be open over the weekend and we printed a list of them. I also printed a copy of the map but it was far too small to read.
We left at 7. A wet weekend was forecast but that’s OK. In fact it rained pretty heavily during the night and the roads were wet. We don’t mind the rain, except for the fact that Tom doesn’t like to take photos in the rain. Lots of rain is what we need here in California after several years of drought.
It was Black Friday – the day after Thanksgiving – and the official start of the holiday shopping spree. The roads were not too busy but all the car parks surrounding the shopping malls we passed were full. Some shops opened their doors just after midnight. The last place you will ever see Tom and I is fighting the masses to get that one object which we ‘must’ have at a ridiculous price. For us it is the open road, traveling to new places and meeting new and interesting people.
We stopped off in San Anselmo for breakfast at Comforts Cafe – see previous post. When we stopped outside the cafe there was a slight drizzle but the sun was shining.
After breakfast we continued along Sir Francis Drake Blvd, driving through San Geronimo, Forest Knolls and Lagunitas. It was a scenic drive with many trees showing off their autumnal colors. On our way home we plan to take a detour along the San Geronimo Valley Drive.
We pulled into Point Reyes Station at 10. Already there were a lot of cars around and we had to park on a side street. Point Reyes station is a nice place to browse the shops. There are no big stores but lots of funky little artsy craft shops. We went first to Toby’s Feed Barn where the Group Show is for the Open Studios. At the back of the store were exhibits from each of the studios which are open this weekend and here we picked up a brochure. I marked the ones we particularly want to visit. There were 17 crosses so we are going to be busy. The map in the brochure was very good I’m pleased to say.
We had time to kill as none of the studios opened until 11, so we took a wander around town. We passed the restaurant where Tom has booked for tomorrow night – Osteria Stellina. It looks really good.
As I was walking past a shop which had a large map of the the area displayed outside, I heard a woman asking two men what was there to do in the area. Of course I stopped to look at the map because I can’t resist them and the woman went on to say she was from San Jose. One of the men suggested Stinson Beach so I chimed in that Bolinas was also a nice place to visit. The same man replied that the tide was too high there. I then turned to him and asked if he lived in Bolinas and he admitted he did. I explained to the woman that Bolinas folk remove all road signs pointing to Bolinas to discourage people from visiting and that’s why it was worth a visit.
When in Point Reyes Station we always visit Point Reyes Books. Their range of books is fascinating and diverse. We idled away the time there until 11.
The first open studio we visited was Todd Pickering and it was one block over from where we were. Todd specializes in black and white photography so right up Tom’s alley. Todd and his dog met us at the door and welcomed us. He had a lot of very nice prints to look at and buy. Todd also told us he runs courses, either for groups or one to one. In February I am attending a weekend course in Sausalito and suggested to Tom it would be a good idea for him to do a photography course whilst I attended my course. We could always spend a night somewhere between Point Reyes and Sausalito, thereby saving me a trip back to San Jose in the evening or me spending a night on my own in a hotel. Todd was an interesting person to talk to. He also plays a guitar and had a CD of his music for sale.
Next door was Carolyn Mean’s porcelain and stoneware studio. She had bowls and vases on display. There were several ceramic teapots which were very decorative but impractical. There was also a selection of her seconds for sale which were very inexpensive.
As we walked back to the car there was a heavy drizzle. We were pleased to get back into the car as we were not wearing our jackets or carrying the umbrella. They were of course in the car but that was little use to us outside braving the elements.
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December 31 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
View of lower part of Tamales Bay
We had a nice early start with a stop at Peet’s on Geary in the city for our wake-up beverage. North of the Golden Gate Bridge, we took Sir Francis Drake Blvd towards Point Reyes. The views after driving through Fairfax were really pretty, especially with the sun just starting to lighten the sky. Along the sides of the road wildflowers were beginning to appear. The hills are still winter green and everything looks fresh.
(Click on the images for larger versions)
Just before San Geronimo, I noticed some hand painted signs on my left. Some were advertising a country dance, which was held last night. One said ‘Fiddle music makes you smile’. How charming. There were other signs inter mingled with those and I got the message that someone is not too happy about a tank tearing up the ridge. The last one said ‘Thanks, but not no tank’. Hey, this is Marin County so it goes with the territory.
At Olema, we turned right on Highway 1 and then left onto Bear Creek Road. We drove past the Visitors Center and then turned left again onto Limantour Road. Neither Tom nor I have been here before, so this will be a new experience for us.
There is nobody else around at all. We have the road to ourselves. And what a drive. Quail were abundant and darted across the road, with their necks outstretched and their fussy little steps. We stop at a lay-by with a view down to the south end of Tomales Bay.
We passed Sky Trailhead and there were some cars already parked. A little further on we had a spectacular view to the south. On the ridge we
Margaret writing. We were the only folks there.
could see some of the damage caused by the Inverness Ridge Fire 14 years ago but the forest is regenerating. Next we caught sight of Drakes Bay to the north.
The road dead ends in a large car park. There was just one other car there. As we got out of the car, we felt the bite of the wind but we had come prepared with our fleeces.
At the start of the trail, there is a noticeboard with information about the Coastal Watershed Restoration Project. Before the Point Reyes National Seashore was established. Limantour beach was privately owned and there were 20 homes there. Now it is being restored to its natural estuarine habitat and endangered species, like the California red legged frog, will be protected.
We follow the trail towards the beach, walking over a fairly new bridge. The trail then bears right but we decided to investigate the beach before heading down the trail. The path was sandy and crested a low rise range of sand dunes and then we were on the beach. And what a splendid beach – long, sandy and clean. The wind was a little fresh but the sun was shining. We were the only people on the beach and the only footsteps were ours. It was so peaceful to sit on a convenient driftwood log and write, with the soothing sounds of the gentle breaking surf.
Limantour Beach and the cliffs that reminded Sir Francis Drake of the White Cliffs of Dover.
Away to our right the pseudo white cliffs of Dover marched towards the lighthouse, which we couldn’t see because it was around the corner. No wonder Sir Francis Drake was reminded of England when he saw the cliffs. This is definitely the place to bring the kids but, be warned, there are no fast food restaurants or ice cream stands for miles and miles.
Back on the trail, we were on the look out for wildflower but we were almost out of luck. There were some wild iris’s but they were past their best and the lupine bushes were on the verge of blooming.
The trail is along the Limantour Spit. To the right is a marsh with a host of sea and shore birds. To our left are the dunes. The ocean can also be seen but not the beach.
A hawk suddenly flew over my head but I did not have time to identify it through my binoculars before it dipped out of view again. Tom was not able to get a shot of it either.
The trail became narrow and the marsh grass was partially covering the path. The fresh wind whipped the grass against my legs. I could feel the
The Marsh Hawk we saw several times that day
sting of it through my my thin pants. I thought it was just me but Tom commented on it too.
The trail peters out though I am sure it is possible to get right to the end. We did detour down towards the marsh on what I think was an unofficial rail but did not venture too far in case it became boggy.
We turned to go back and gloried in the absolute solitude of the place. Far from the sound of traffic with not even the vapor trail of a passing aircraft to mar the blue sky. Then we spotted the hawk again and Tom took some photos – hope they come out OK. I identified it as a Marsh Hawk.
After our bracing walk and all that fresh air, we were ready for breakfast.
April 07 2009 | Special Places | 2 Comments »
It was 4.30 in the morning and we were on our way. We must be mad to be on the road so early, especially on Labor Day. We listened to the 4.30 news and our thoughts are with the people of new Orleans, who are bracing themselves for Hurricane Gustav to hit in a couple of hours. 90% of the residents have been evacuated, which must have been quite an operation.
(Click on the image for a larger version)
The weather here promises to be clear but there was a wind advisory for Sacramento. The wind tends to be quite strong at Point Reyes, so we must be prepared.
It is pitch black outside but I’m able to write because of my nifty pen. It is called ‘The Pilot’s Pen’ and great for writing in the dark as it has a built in light.
Just before 5.30 we draw up outside Peets on Geary in the city. The lights are on but the door is locked. We could see the baristas inside but were not sure what time they opened. If it’s 6, should we wait around for our last chance to get a decent cup of coffee? Our dilemma was solved when the door was unlocked and we were able to go inside. We spent half an hour enjoying our coffee, honey bran muffin and the paper.
As we crossed the Golden Gate Bridge at just after 6 am, it is still dark but there is no fog. We could see Alcatraz and Angel Islands and copuld vaguely make out Oakland across the Bay. Looking back over my shoulder I could see the famous skyline of San Francisco. The next time we will cross will be in two weeks when we will be with our friends Viv and Tom from England. They are coming for a three week road trip to Los Angeles, Las Vegas, the Grand Canyon, Death Valley and Yosemite. Then they will spend a couple more days with us before flying home. We plan to take them on a day trip to Healdsburg and the Alexander and Dry Creek Valleys on September 22.
After crossing the bridge, we took Sir Francis Drake Blvd through San Anselmo, Farifax and up to Olema. The sun is beginning to peep above the hill so I turn the light off on my pen to save the battery. I must say it is a real pleasure to be out and about on the roads with very little traffic around. Not only do we make very good time but we get to enjoy the scenery more without being stuck behind smelly vehicles and slow moving trucks. The wonderful scenery with views of open countryside, forested slopes and rounded hills plus the smell of eucalyptus is invigorating.
As usual I kept my eyes open for wildlife. You just never know what you may see. I was reminded of something we were told on Saturday. Tom and I met up with friends Cindy and Tim. We had a lovely meal at Tanglewood on Santana Row. During the meal Tim related a recent close encounter with a mountain lion. He was driving alone in his 30 year old Mercedes convertible with the roof down on the Pescadero to San Gregorio Stage Coach Road. About half way along, on a secluded stretch, he rounded a corner and suddenly came across an adult male mountain lion at the side of the road. It was stationary, with his back legs up on the steep bank and his front legs on the roadway. Tim stopped, not knowing what to do. At first he was so excited to come eyeball to eyeball with such a magnificent creature, the first he had ever seen, but then the reality hit him. Here he was, almost within touching distance of a lion, motionless and sitting in an open topped car. The lion turned and walked back up the hill and then stopped and turned back. Tim drove slowly ahead, not wanting to frighten the creature but anxious to get away safely. He felt extremely vulnerable, half expecting the lion to launch himself into the car.
Driving through the San Geronimo Valley, it looks a little foggy ahead. It doesn’t look too bad but, of course, it could get worse.
Point Reyes is a huge protected wildlife area. At the southern end there are many trails and remote beaches;
to the left a long drive to the Point Reyes Lighthouse (read about our visit back in January this year) and to the north is Pierce Point Ranch and the spectacular trail to Tomales Point. Today we had two options – the above mentioned Tomales Point hike or the trail from Shell Beach to Pebble Beach. Due to the wind warning, we decided to take the latter option. We have seen wild boars, turkeys, a couple of bobcats and even a tarantulas on our travels but never a mountain lion. It would be great to see one but at a safe distance and certainly not in an open topped car.
At Olema, we turn right and drive along Highway 1for a short distance before turning left towards Inverness. We drive alongside the mudflats at the southern end of Tomales Bay . A wispy fog hovers over the surface of the water.
In Inverness we pull in behind The Inverness Store, which is opposite the small post office, and park. We always stop here. Stuck in the mud a short distance away is an old 50′ wooden fishing boat. Still discernible on the bow is the name ’Point Reyes’. It is slowly disintegrating and sinking into the sand and mud. Over the years we have watched it become more and more dilapidated. There is a footpath which takes you all the way to the boat. It is even possible to jump across a small creek and get right up to the boat. Tom took lots of photos and I just admired the view. It was so peaceful there and it was such a lovely morning.
We did avail ourselves of the portapotty – probably our last chance for a few hours. These out houses can be pretty gruesome but, though full, it wasn’t too bad. At least it had water, soap, paper towels and even hand sanitizer.
About a mile north of Inverness we took a sharp right hand turn on Camino Del Mar. There are no signs telling you there is beach access but at the end of the road is a small car park for Shell Beach and the beginning of the Johnstone Trail. From here you can walk to Shell Beach – 0.5 km, Pebble Beach – 6.4 km, Hearts Desire Beach – 7.0 km and Indian Beach 7.8 km. All the way to Indian Beach and back is a 10 mile hike. The trail is open from 8 am until 8 pm.
It was just before 8 and there were no other cars about. The first part of the trail is an easy descent to the beach. Shell Beach is tiny and was deserted. Just offshore is a small raft. Tom remembered swimming out to it one day in his youth with a couple of mates. As they lay and sat about on the raft, one of them mentioned that something large had brushed against his leg on the way out. Speculation amongst the three of them came to the conclusion it was a shark and they recounted shark stories for the next half hour. Tom said the swim back to the beach was far longer than the way out and he was relieved when his feet eventually felt solid ground under him.
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September 05 2008 | Special Places | No Comments »
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