February 4, 2011
Just a short post with some photos. Margaret was taking a class in Sausalito so I tagged along and while she was in class I took a few photos. The weather on Saturday was pretty lousy but Sunday it cleared up a little bit so I headed out to the Marin Headlands above the Golden Gate.
Cozelman Road has just reopened after being upgraded so you can drive all the way to Point Bonita without any detours. They did a great job on the road and points along the way where you can stop and take it all in. There’s even a roundabout! Don’t see too many of those here in the US.
I went out to Fort Barry and stopped at several of the old batteries along the way. Lots of fascinating history out there. The fort was built in 1908. Not too old by world standards but here in California anything older than 100 years is pretty amazing.
So in this gallery there’s a photo of the Golden Gate in both color and black and white. I’ve always been partial to B&W (probably has something to do with my color blindness) but Margaret likes color. Which do you like? Click on a thumbnail for larger versions.
February 04 2011 | Special Places | 4 Comments »
January 28, 2011
Looking out towards Año Nuevo from the visitor center
Año Nuevo is our main destination today. This is the best time of the year to see the elephant seals because both the females and the males are in residence. The females came ashore in December to give birth to their pups and the males arrived a bit later to start organizing their harems. Between December 15 and March 1 the only way to view the seals is to go on a guided tour which can be pre-booked online. Tom has visited during this time but I haven’t. We haven’t pre-booked but when we were last at Año Nuevo in November we were told that on most days it is OK to turn up on spec, especially for the early tours, because there are often spaces available due to no-shows. I did check the day before to see if we could book but there were no spaces available. Fingers crossed we can get on a tour!
This is the dawn of a new age because I’m using my new iPad for the first time on our travels. Hopefully it will save a lot of time. Before I used to take a notebook and write with a pen and then enter it into WordPress when I got back home. With the iPad and an app called Blogpress I can just sync it up when I get home and editing will be much quicker.
We left home at 6:30 when it was still dark and immediately I became aware of a couple more advantages of using the iPad. For one thing I can write in the dark because the screen is backlit. The second advantage is that every word is readable. A lot of times I would have trouble deciphering my notes because handwriting in a car suffers with every bump, twist and turn.
A thicket on our first little hike. The morning light and dew made it sparkle.
We could tell it was going to be a beautiful day. As we crested the summit of the Santa Cruz Mountains we could see no fog at the coast. Ahead we could clearly see the lights of Monterey clear across Monterey Bay – a rare phenomenon for us.
In Santa Cruz we stopped on Mission for coffee. It was called On a Mission Coffee and is little more than a kiosk but they also have a small range of breakfast items. We already had breakfast before we left home so we just bought liquid refreshment this time. Tom had coffee and I chose hot chocolate. We have bought coffee here before but then there was a huge range of magazines for sale at the side. I asked what happened to the magazines and the young girl told us they stopped because it wasn’t profitable.
We made another stop at Davenport Landing. Here there is a small secluded sandy beach. A couple of early morning surfers were already braving the elements and from where we stood they sounded as though they were having fun. A short walk on the beach, a couple of photos and we were on our way again.
There is nothing to beat an early morning drive along this stretch of road at this time of the morning on a lovely day like today. So many photo ops but unfortunately no time to stop again today.
Año Nuevo Sate Park opens at 8 am and we arrived a couple of minutes before. At the kiosk we paid the $10 entrance fee to the park and were given a standby number. We were the first standbys today so have a good chance to actually get on a tour. All guided walks start at the Visitors Center so from the car park that is where we headed. Along the way we paused to watch a flock of quail scurrying around. The males look particularly plump and handsome at this time of the year.
At the Visitors Center we gave our names and were told we would be called if there were still spaces five minutes before the published time of the start. If there were a lot of standbys and spare docents, they would lay on an extra tour.
We had a look around the Marine Education Center. Lots of interesting displays explaining not only the life cycle of events on the beach but also about the dunes and surrounding environment including the other wildlife which abounds here. While we were waiting a docent told us that we would definitely be on the 9:30 tour, which gave us enough time to have a look around outside.
Just outside the Visitors Center is the start of the New Year Creek Trail which we have never been on. This would is a good opportunity so off we set. The trail turned to the left and towards Cove Beach and Highway 1. At the bottom of a steep flight of wooden steps there was a parting of the ways and I kept straight on heading for Highway 1. I was curious to see where it came out. Pretty soon I was walking over an old concrete bridge which was probably the old Highway 1. After about a quarter of a mile of uphill climbing, I reached the main road. From the highway it is hard to spot the entrance to the trail. I retraced my steps to the concrete bridge and could see Tom down on the beach. When I joined him he told me there were a couple of seals on the beach. One was off to the right on the other side of New Year Creek and the other was our side and just around the edge of the cliff. This was a lone bull. The scarring on his back was very pronounced. At first I thought it was dead but by checking with my binoculars I could see that he was breathing so merely sleeping.
Striking a pose. Our first encounter with a young male elephant seal.
By 9:15 we were back at the Visitors Center in order to be ready to set off at 9:30. The earlier groups which set out comprised mostly of teenage students. Our tour though was mostly couples and small groups. At the staging post a park ranger laid down a few rules – no food, not even gum (bottled water is allowed); always stay behind the docent and never get closer than 25 feet from any of the seals. We were introduced to our docent Cheryl Wong. Along the way she dispensed lots of information spiced with humor.
Before we reached the sand dunes, Cheryl stopped and gave us a potted history of Año Nuevo, who discovered it (Sebastián Vizcaíno), the rise, fall and subsequent rise again of the elephant seal population over the years and some background of the Ohlone Indians who called this place home before the Europeans arrived and began to ‘civilize’ them. At a later stop Cheryl went into the life cycle of the seals, what they feed on and how they are able to hold their breath for such a long time under water. She circulated a small piece of hide covered in coarse fur and a whisker. The hide felt a bit rough but the whisker was amazing. I was astounded at the thickness of it.
Elephant seal at Año Nuevo. You actually get pretty close to these guys.
Our first close encounter with an elephant seal happened shortly afterward. A young bull had hauled himself out of the water and was stretched out on the path in front of us. Cheryl said he was about four years old and probably too young to breed yet. Even though we were the required 25 feet away he was aware of our presence and raised his head to look at us. Bulls this age can travel very fast and cover 25 feet in 3 seconds so we were very careful not to disturb him too much. When he opened his mouth to yawn we could see he only had a few back molars but this is quite common. Males start breeding when they are 5 years old and live until they are about 12 years old. Females on the other hand live for about 18 years.
At this point we deviated from the normal path and headed towards the beach over the dunes. We passed several other solitary seals who were basking some way from the shore. We were met by a park ranger – Officer Marty – who called herself a traffic cop. She told the docent which paths to take to avoid disturbing seals. There was another bull but much older than the first one we saw, probably nearly 12. All the while we watched him he didn’t appear to move at all and was certainly not aware of our presence.
We walked to the top of a bluff with a view down to the beach. Here we saw lots of seals – males females and pups. Most were stretched out with
They called this guy, 'Mr. Bubbles'.
just the occasional movement of their fins to scoop sand over their backs. This is to protect them from the sun. The pups stayed close to their mothers and we saw several suckling. Only about 25% will survive their first few months. Some become separated from their mothers, some are attacked by coyotes and some are crushed by the huge males. Once they are weaned and take off into the ocean to fend for themselves they are at the mercy of Great White Sharks and Killer Whales which patrol just offshore waiting to snatch them. Only 25% of the pups born this year will survive to return to this beach.
We did not see any of the males fighting. Cheryl said they were conserving their energy until the females came into season, which happens about a month after the pups have been born. From our vantage place we had a good view of Año Nuevo Island where we could see another colony of seals resting. Many years ago, when the light house was built on the island, it was possible to walk out to the island at low tide. Now, due to erosion, that is not possible and the public has no access to the island at all.
We could not stay too long at this spot because another group was due to arrive very soon. Our next stop was to observe a lone bull in a small pond half submerged in the water. Earlier Officer Marty referred to him as Mr Bubbles and we soon saw why. Elephant seals can hold their breath for a long time and when this male raised to head to take a breath and then breathed out he produced a lot of bubbles. He did this several times and it was amusing to watch. Cheryl said they like to practice holding their breath. When they are out at sea they dive very deep and have to hold their breath for about twenty minutes.
Bull elephant seal courting a female.
Our guided tour was nearly done. Just one more climb to another overlook to see another section of the beach and more seals. This time we saw an abandoned pup that had died lying on the sand. It was distressing but that’s nature. The park rangers only intervene when the problem is man made, for instance if they get caught up in fishing lines. Apart from that they are left very much undisturbed. From start to finish the tours last for two and a half hours. One hour of that is taken up with walking from the Visitors Center to the staging area and back again. For $7 a head it is real good value and today we certainly got our money’s worth due to the fantastic weather. It was a wonderful experience to see the seals at this time of the year.
Our day was not quite over though. We rounded off the day by driving into Pescadero for lunch at Duarte’s where I enjoyed a delicious bowl of artichoke soup and Tom had a cheeseburger with fries and onion rings. Then across the road to Arcangeli Grocery where we bought a loaf of their freshly baked (and still warm) artichoke garlic herb bread. Just one more stop at Harley Farms to buy some of their lavender honey goat cheese before heading home. We took the scenic route along Stage Road to San Gregorio where we turned right onto Highway 84 and headed towards Highway 280. The end of another perfect day.
January 28 2011 | Special Places | No Comments »
January 25, 2011
Breakers Cafe in Stinson Beach, California
We were on our way home from our fantastic weekend in Dogtown and stopped for breakfast in Stinson Beach. I noticed the Breakers Cafe on our way to Dogtown on Friday and it looked good enough to try out.
First impressions were good. Even though it was a damp morning it looked bright and inviting. Inside it was large but not crammed with tables and chairs. In one window was a comfortable sofa and two easy chairs with books and magazines to hand. Unfortunately that area was already occupied but we found a table right next to a gas fired stove.
Food is ordered at the counter and served to the table. Thank goodness they had oatmeal on the menu. For $7.95 it comes with cranberries and walnuts, plus the usual raisins and brown sugar. Tom ordered a Sammy’s Special which consisted of chorizo and eggs with black beans, salsa, rice and tortillas for $8.95.
I really liked the way the walls were decorated. The theme was definitely nautical – a sharks head; a large wooden propeller; a surfboard; a large fish suspended from the ceiling; a lifebelt; a collage of shells and small rocks round the self serve coffee area; another collage, but larger, over one of the windows with a net as a background and large bits of driftwood and flotsam mounted on it. The art work varies – small oil paintings of local scenes; two of old woodies (for the benefit of non US persons, a woodie is an old estate car with wooden panels on the side); a couple of black and white photos of buildings, presumably in Stinson Beach; plus one which depicts a policeman and two scantily dressed men outside a house. But what really caught our attention was a collage made up of white plastic rubbish which had been washed up on a beach. A brightly colored but very unhappy mermaid had been painted over the rubbish giving a powerful message.
Now for the food. My oatmeal was great. A nice full bowl liberally covered with fruit and nuts. The milk was warm, foamy and served in a fair sized stainless steel jug. Tom said his chorizo was the best he had ever had. Everything on his plate was good. The salsa was hot and spicy, just how he likes it.
There were separate restrooms for men and women. The women’s was large, clean and smelt nice. There was an old wooden cupboard in one corner with a marble top. An antique looking coat rack was on the wall. Also on the wall was a large painting of an orchid. The facilities though were a little primitive.
Our overall assessment of the Breakers Cafe is very positive and we will certainly visit again. This visit was on a Monday and not crowded at all. I expect it would be a lot busier at the weekends.
Breakers Cafe
3465 Hwy 1
Stinson Beach, CA 94970
January 25 2011 | Breakfast Log | No Comments »
January 19, 2011
Tomales Bay. I always liked this building.
It was raining once again when we woke up. We stayed in bed drinking coffee and tea. I read about the history of the ranch and Dogtown in a brochure found in the loft which was compiled by Anne and Russ. It contained both personal memories, photos and newspaper articles. The original inhabitants were the Coast Miwok Indians. The land became part of a Mexican land grant which was called Rancho Baulines and given to Gregorio Briones in 1846. In the 1850′s a thriving settlement named Woodville grew up around a sawmill. One of the descendents of Gregorio Briones lived on the property during the first half of the 1900′s. Lots from the Rancho Baulines began to be sold off in the 1950′s. In the 1960′s the property was bought by a couple who built the original house. There were two more owners of the property before Annue and Russ bought it in 1992 after reading a small ad in the local paper.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
Dogtown acquired it name in the latter part of the 20th century due to the number of dogs local hunters owned. In the early 1900′s the name was changed to Woodville because the residents, mostly lumberjacks and miners, wanted a more decorous name. In the early 1970′s another resident petitioned and won the right to change the name back to it’s original name of Dogtown.
This was the day of our ninth anniversary. My present to Tom was this weekend. His present to me was a lovely new watch. I lost my previous watch back in May when we were in Grass Valley for the weekend. This new watch has a titanium strap and is gorgeous.
Lying in bed I could see the bare patches in the corrals were now extremely muddy. The horses don’t seem unduly concerned about the rain. Again we heard them pawing the floor of the barn while they waited for their breakfast.
Over breakfast we discussed where to go that day. We had the same dilemma as yesterday, except all of the trails would be even muddier today. We decided to head to Point Reyes and Drakes Bay. We planned to take a walk along the beach where we would be protected from the elements as the beach does not face the open ocean.
The sun was shining when we left with lots of blue patches in the sky. It feels a bit cooler than yesterday though. Hopefully the rain would stay away until later in the afternoon. Once again we drove north along Highway 1. Everything looked clean and fresh after the recent rains but the grass is very wet. The sun makes all the difference, giving a sparkling effect as its rays reflect off drops of water on the leaves of trees and bushes.
At Olema we turned left making our way past the road to Bear Valley Visitor Center and past a road to Olema Marsh. Even though we left a lot later than usual, there were not too many cars on the road. I expect the rain had dampened the spirits of the tourists.
Mountains of oyster shells at Drakes Bay Oyster Farm
Passing Rogers Ranch brought back memories of our visit in September. We could not see any chickens out in the field today but saw some of the grass fed beef. We took the short detour to Drakes Bay Oyster Farm. The drive skirts Schooner Bay and there were quite a few ducks and coots on the water and egrets standing in the water close to shore. As we got out of the car we saw an egret very close. Too close in fact because as soon as we started to walk it flew away. It land a short way away and just behind it stood a blue heron. Tom, of course, had to take some photos.
Afterwards we walked towards the shop. Tom carried on towards the mound of oyster shells. Another photo op. I went into the shop. The oysters here were cheaper than the ones on sale at Tomales Bay Oyster Company. I told the girl behind the counter that I had never had a raw oyster and she was glad to answer my questions. She explained they came in four sizes, small, medium, large and extra large. The smaller ones are younger and best eaten raw. The larger ones are older and best cooked. She told me how to open them. Special shucking knives were on sale there but a butter knife or screwdriver would work just as well. Oysters should be opened with the side on top so the juices stay in the bottom. The knife should be inserted into the gap and worked around a bit and then twisted to open the shell fully. The oyster dies as soon as it is exposed to the air. It is attached to the shell at the bottom and this has to be cut free. They can be eaten by just swallowing them almost whole but that seems such a waste to me. How can you know what they taste like? The girl told me she likes to chew them a bit before swallowing. She also recommended serving them with a squeeze of lemon or tomato sauce. As I was determined to try oysters on this trip, I bought half a dozen small ones. The girl put them in a bag with lots of ice.
The beach at Drakes Bay. The scene hasn't changed much since the days when Sir Francis Drake landed.
Our next stop was Drakes Bay. The wind whipped the door out of my hand when I opened it so decided to put my warm, fleecy jacket on. Tom being more hardy, didn’t bother with a jacket. Even though it was chilly the sun felt warm.
I wandered down the beach, which is long, curved and sandy. Along the edge of the shore a host of birds were busy. The sanderlings were probing with their long bills into the sand and seemed to be having a lot of success. There was also a flock of dunderlings busily running around. It is so amusing to watch them. They stand near the edge of the water in a group with their backs to the water. When the next wave roles in, they wait until it has nearly reached then and then collectively they take off, running just in front of the water and chirping excitedly like day old chicks. It’s like watching a group of silly little girls who love to be frightened by the water by running away from it and squealing at the same time as though they love to be scared. I stood watching for a good ten minutes before I moved off.
The cliffs here are very fragile and resemble compacted mud. It looks very much like shale but lighter in color. It reminded me of the cliffs in Lyme Regis in the UK, which are good for fossil hunting but try as hard as I could there were no fossils between the thin layers. The rock, if that is what it is, is fragile and almost crumbles to the touch. As I walked along the bottom of the cliffs every so often there would be a clatter as a scattering of rocks came lose and tumbled down to the sand.
This is where it is reputed Sir Francis Drake spent a few months back in 1579 when he stopped on the circumnavigation of the globe to repair his ship, the Golden Hind. He wrote that the cliffs reminded him of the White Cliffs of Dover. He claimed the area for Queen Elizabeth I and named it New Albion.
Just mesmerized by the waves, the sun and Drakes Beach.
I almost had the place to myself as I wandered further on down the beach. When I came to an area with a flat rock extending into the sea I walked out onto it. It was full of little rock pools but there were no crabs or small fish lurking in them. The waves breaking just offshore were magnificent to watch, Rising and curling before toppling over, the waves rushed to the shore. It was a wonderful place to be with the sun shining down and warming me up.
Tom caught up with me and we spent about ten minutes just contemplating the crashing waves and enjoying the scenery. We then made our way back towards the car. We were walking into the wind and talking became difficult.
Back in the car park, Tom put his camera away and we walked to the cafe which is right on the beach. There is also a visitors center though we did not go inside. We did read a series of information boards in a small courtyard about Sir Francis Drake and they were interesting. In the cafe we bought a couple of hot chocolates and sat outside on the patio in the sunshine. Fortunately we were sheltered from the wind. It was great, just sitting there enjoying our drinks and soaking in the views.
Afterwards we climbed up the small headland called the Peter Behr Overlook. The climb to the top did not take long but it was very steep. The view from the top encompassed the whole Drakes Bay so the effort was worth it.
At 1.30 we started back to the ranch. For a late lunch we ate the oysters. Tom struggled valiantly to open them and I tasted my first ever raw oyster. It was not at all as I expected it. I imagined the oyster to be bigger, plumper and whiter and did not realise there would so much liqud that went with it. The liquid though tasted just like sea water. The taste of the oysters was not unpleasant but not something I would want to eat every day.
Just after 4.30 we set off towards Point Reyes Station but before we left we had to give the horses a snack. They wolfed down the carrots in no time at all. We arrived at Point Reyes Station just before 5 and filled up with gas before heading for Point Reyes Books to spend the interim time browsing books before heading to Osteria Stellina for dinner. Once again we had an amazing meal. I had roasted brussels sprouts and toasted hazelnuts to start with, followed by pork tenderloin, potato gratin and kale; finishing up with the three artisan cheese dish. Tom had something completely new for the starter – marrow bone jelly with capers and lemons. His main dish was ahi tuna with mixed vegetables and he finished up with chocolate cake. To drink Tom had a glass of red wine and I a glass of chardonnay. While I was eating the cheeses, our server brought me a glass of port as a complimentary drink. He asked Tom if he would like one as well and he of course said yes. All in all it was another fantastic meal at the Osteria Stellina and a perfect way to round off our anniversary weekend.
January 19 2011 | Special Places | No Comments »
January 13, 2011
The view from our bedroom at Woodville Ranch
During the night it rained heavily. Several times we woke up and each time we could hear the rain steadily falling. It was so nice to be snuggled up in bed.
At 7 we were woken by the sound of the horses moving below us in the barn. It was breakfast time for them. Outside it was still overcast and we could hear water dripping from the eaves but the heavy rain had ceased.
We decided to go into Bolinas for breakfast. There is only one cafe in the town – The Coast Cafe- and that is where we headed. We have had breakfast here several times but it must be under new management. It’s called brunch now not breakfast and the menu has definitely gone upmarket. I had French Toast with organic pears with a side of apple chicken sausage and Tom had Fish Tacos. Our food was good if a little pricey.
When I planned this weekend, it was with the idea that we could be doing a lot of hiking. But the rain during the night made a change of plan necessary. All the trails would be too muddy now. We ended up taking a drive north along Highway 1 to Bodega Bay.
Our first stop was by the Bolinas Lagoon. The day was beginning to brighten up and there were bits of blue sky to be seen. The outside temperature was only 52 degrees though. The lagoon was beautiful. This time our view had the hills in the background.
Our next stop was just before the Woodville Ranch. I wanted to get a photo of the green Dogtown sign (see part 1 for a photo of the sign). The population was originally 30 but it had been crossed out several times. The total population is now 33.
The views towards Olema and Point Reyes Station were outstanding. The recent rains had turned the grass green. On one side of the road is the Point Reyes Natural Seashore and on the right the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Everything is pristine. We drove through Olema and then Point Reyes Station, the latter being busier than the former. Today Point Reyes Station were holding its weekly farmers market. All along the way were trail heads. Point Reyes is a walker’s paradise. So many places to explore.
Tomales Bay Oyster sign along Highway One
We stopped at the Tomales Bay Oyster Company where it was a hive of activity. Oysters were being brought in from the beds, placed into large tanks to be rinsed and then sorted into sizes. A dozen small oysters sell for $10 and a dozen large for $18. The oyster beds are out in the bay and are clearly marked with colored buoys. We were chatting with one of the oyster sorters. They were expecting a busy day. The sun was shining and they were planning on a lot of customers that day. They have lots of picnic tables, all with their own BBQs. I guess people come, buy the raw oysters, cook them and then eat them. In fact several groups were already arriving and laying claim to their tables and starting to light BBQs.
Highway 1 swings inland for a bit and we were driving along by the side of a creek. In the small town of Tomales we took a detour to go see Dillon Beach. There were some amazing views of the Point Reyes headland and the entrance to Tomales Bay. We stopped by some rock formations so Tom could take photos. I stayed in the car because I could hear the wind whistling around the car.
It didn’t take long from there to reach Dillon Beach. It is a small town with narrow streets. There was only one place to park but the charge was $7, which seemed an awful lot of money for a five minute stop. We carried on driving to the end of the road and ended up at Lawson’s Landing. The road dead ended at a trailer park with an entrance fee. We turned around. Driving back through Dillon Beach, we had to slow down to negotiate a couple of the bends because two pickups towing trailers were taking up most of the road.
Instead of retracing our steps to Tomales, we took a short cut back to Highway 1 along Valley Ford Road. This time the spectacular views were inland and we could see for miles. At the small hamlet of Valley Ford we turned right onto Highway 1.
Western sandpipers hunkering down waiting for the storm to arrive.
Bodega Bay is a strange place. We never found a downtown as such with shops. Along the shore there were lots of restaurants with their own parking lots but there was nowhere we could stop to look around. We drove to the end of the town and then turned towards Bodega Head. We did park for a while in the marina but didn’t stay long. The weather was beginning to deteriorate. At a small inlet at the beginning of the marina was a mud flat. A host of water and wading birds were busy searching for food but what amazed us were a flock western sandpipers. At first they were difficult to spot as they blended in with the vegetation but they were all standing facing in the same direction and hardly moving. They were bracing themselves for a storm.
We headed back to Dogtown. The rain started to come down as soon as we left Bodega Bay. We could see down towards Tomales Bay a huge rain cloud and the rain falling in the distance. We thought about the Tomales Bay Oyster Company and thought they would not be too happy.
In Point Reyes Station we stopped to buy food for our evening meal. We bought wine, olive oil, spinach and bread at the Palace Market on the main street; cheese at the the Cowgirl Creamery on 4th Street and a small filet mignon and a rib eye steak in the Marin Sun Farm butcher’s shop.
Tom cooked our meal and it was superb. We finished the bottle of wine and chatted while the rain beat down. We were content.
January 13 2011 | Special Places | No Comments »
January 9, 2011
Dogtown, California. Population 30, oops, I mean 33
For an anniversary surprise I booked a weekend away in Dogtown. Everybody I told had no idea where Dogtown was. In fact I had never heard of it until I picked up a book at Point Reyes Books in Point Reyes Station on our last visit. It was called ‘The Dogtown Chronicles – Our Life and Times with Sheep, Goats, Llamas, and other Creatures’ by Doris Ober. It was a fascinating read about a couple in Dogtown and their animals. When I went online to find out more about Dogtown, I found a vacation rental, The Loft at Woodville Ranch, and decided it would be the perfect location to spend our anniversary.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
Where is Dogtown I hear you ask? It is on Highway 1 just north of Bolinas. When we set off after the rush hour on Friday morning, Tom had no idea where we were heading. After crossing the Golden Gate Bridge, I told him to take the Highway 1 exit towards Stinson Beach. That narrowed the choice of our eventual destination.
The forecast for the weekend was not very promising. Rain was likely Saturday, Sunday and Monday. That Friday morning it was overcast and once in Marin it started to rain.
We stopped at the Pelican Inn for a drink and hurried inside out of the rain. The Pelican Inn is the nearest to a British pub I’ve seen in California. The bar is small and the furniture, with its pew like seats around the wall and small round wooden tables, feels like home away from home. The barmaid even knew what a shandy was without me having to explain how to make it. On the walls were black and white photos of the Royal family from a few years ago. A sign in the restroom amused me which warned that the plumbing was ‘Authentic English Tudor style.’ Obviously tongue in cheek as there was no such thing as plumbing in Tudor times. A mass communal pit would have been more authentic.
The beautiful Bolinas Lagoon
It had stopped raining by the time we left The Pelican Inn and we enjoyed the ride along Highway One. The road twisted and turned with occasional glimpses of the ocean. Even though it was still overcast we were able to see the Farallon Islands quite clearly.
Tom thought our destination would be Stinson Beach but we drove straight through. The tide was in and the Bolinas Lagoon was full. It was an amazing ride driving the length of the lagoon and observing all the birds on the water. We drove past the turning to Bolinas and Tom was puzzled. Where else was there to go? The next stop, he thought, was Olema.
When I saw the small green sign which announced we were entering ‘Dogtown – population 30, I told him to get ready to turn left. Then when I saw the sign saying ‘Woodville Ranch’ I asked Tom to turn into the drive. We had arrived. To the left stood the main house and ahead was the barn. Our home for the next three days would be the loft above the barn.
The Loft at Woodville Ranch. Beautiful setting, beautiful place. Everything was perfect.
We knocked at the door of the main house. The door opened and Anne Sands greeted us. She took us to the barn and showed us the loft. On the way we saw the beautiful Arabian horses who reside there. The loft is a marvelous place – long and with lots of windows. At each end there are long windows which stretch from the ceiling nearly to the floor. In the bedroom, a four poster bed and antique furniture. There was a full size kitchen, a small eating area and a sitting room. Everything you could wish for in a holiday home.
Anne explained that there were a couple of stores in Bolinas, including a co-op behind the community hall which sold local organic produce. I asked about nearby walking trails and she showed me some beautiful, hand drawn maps of the property and surrounding area. There were a couple of trails on the property and many more in Point Reyes National Seashore.
After we’d settled in, we drove into Bolinas along Mesa Road. One of the maps was of Bolinas and showed that the Coastal Trail starts at the end of Mesa Road. Mesa Road turns into a gravel roadway running past the Point Reyes Bird Observatory and ended in a car park. We ventured only a little way along the trail. We would have liked to have gone further as it looked interesting but we thought it was gong to rain. We did go of on a short spur which led to a fabulous view from the top of a ridge overlooking the ocean. The Farallon Islands, although still visible, were slowing disappearing into the mist.
Foot of a giant prehistoric creature or the trunk of a eucalyptus tree?
We felt raindrops as we made our way back to the car and we were able to reach it before we got too wet. When we got to the sign for the bird observatory I noticed it said ‘Visitors Welcome’, so we turned into the driveway. At the end was a car park and a Visitors Center. Inside there was a lot of information of the work they do there to catch and band birds. They use a misting net. Most mornings the activities can be viewed but not at 4 in the afternoon unfortunately. We walked around the small museum with, amongst other things, a collection of bird skulls. On display were the skulls of a pelican right down to a hummingbird. It was amazing to see how small and fragile the skull of a hummingbird is. They also have guided bird tours from time to time. We plan to return for another visit sometime.
Back in Bolinas we found the co-op where we bought some organic carrots for the horses. Feeling hungry, we went to the Coast Cafe for an early dinner but unfortunately it was closed.We went a nearby store and asked if they knew what time it opened and were told 5 o’clock. By this time it had started to rain in earnest and we did not really want to hang around for three quarters of an hour until the cafe opened. We decided to buy some food in the store and returned to the loft to cook our own supper. Earlier we had bought a dozen eggs from Anne and with an onion, a large potato and some mushrooms we made and enjoyed an omelet.
We spent a cozy evening watching a DVD and listening to the pounding rain outside. We wandered whether we would be able to get out for a walk the next day or whether the rain was set in for the weekend. We retired to our marvelous comfy bed for an early night.
January 09 2011 | Special Places | No Comments »
December 28, 2010
Vineyard along the San Benito Wine Trail.
Another trip to San Juan Bautista, goody, goody. Once again we stayed overnight in the ‘Little House’. The day started very well. We planned to drive to San Juan, buy coffee at Vertigo and go to the house for breakfast. Our plans had a set back though. As we were approaching San Juan, we suddenly realized we did not have the key to the house so had to turn back home to pick it up. The journey which normally takes 40 minutes took us two hours.
Make sure you click on the photos for larger versions.
We were so hungry on the return trip we stopped in Gilroy at the Black Bear Diner for breakfast. We have eaten here many times before but it had always been early in the morning when few customers were around. On this occasion, it was gone 9 and the place was crowded. We had to wait fifteen minutes for a table. By the the time we were shown to our table, Tom was more than ready for his coffee and after twenty minutes he managed to snag a server and ask for coffee. Our order was not taken for another ten minutes. We were also a bit disappointed with our breakfasts when they finally arrived. Tom always asks for his hash browns to be extra crispy and this time they certainly weren’t. I, as usual, had oatmeal. The oatmeal was a bit runny. Not only that, the fruit and nuts came in little packets which were difficult to open. Must make a note to only go to the Black Bear Diner before 8 am.
After settling into the Little House, we set off to take the wine tour. I’d looked online for the names and addresses of the wineries and the times they opened. Our plan was to visit four today. To get there we drove along Highway 156 towards Hollister and then right onto Union Road. Before reaching Highway 25, we turned right on Cienega Road. Soon we were driving along a scenic road lined with nice houses, most of them with paddocks and horses. Along the way Tom spotted a derelict wooden barn in a field and just had to stop and take some photographs. As we drove along the road Tom began to get a little worried. Pleasant though the scenery was, it just did not look like wine country. I assured him we were on the right road and that we would eventually fine the wineries.
Tarantula crossing the road. A cute little guy (actually not so little).
We did find the wineries but before we reached our first winery we saw a lot of wildlife. First of all we saw several hawks , sitting on the top of fence posts or high up on telegraph wires. Then we saw a flock of wild turkeys. But our most interesting find was a tarantula. It was crossing the road in front of us. We stopped the car and Tom was able to take quite a few photos of it before it slowly made its made into the thick undergrowth. It seemed completely unaware of our presence.
The first winery we reached was DeRose Vineyards. According to their website, not only has it the world’s largest covered wine cellar but is also the oldest existing winery in California. It is situated right on the road and is not your normal winery. At first it was difficult to find anywhere to park as most places were occupied by Ford Mustangs. The entrance to the tasting room took us into a large warehouse with an intriguing musty smell. There were several other people tasting wine – obviously the owners of the mustangs – but we were greeted warmly and given a couple of glasses. We spent a very pleasant half an hour sampling quite a few wines. First we sampled the whites, starting with a Chardonnay and progressing to a Viognier and an Argentinian wine called Sur de Los Andes. The first two I liked but not so keen on the third. Tom tried the reds, starting with a Cabernet and carrying on to the Sangiovese, the Zin and the Hollywood Red blend. He liked them all except the Zin. We finished up with the a late harvest Viognier, which I really liked. A sign behind the counter took my attention. It said “Squeeze me, stomp me, make we wine” which I thought very amusing. We didn’t buy any wine because it was our first stop and we wanted to try the rest before we decided.
Just as we were walking out of the tasting room we heard two small planes roar past just overhead. We learned that the two pilots were on their way to the winery for a special BBQ they were holding and that was their signal they were about to land at Hollister airport. Someone from the winery would then make their way to the airport to pick them up. Just as we got outside they flew past again and it was amazing to see them pass so close.
Mustang day at the Pietra Santa Winery
We carried on driving down Cienega Road looking for the Pietra Santa winery but we missed it completely, instead finding the third on our list which was the Calera Wine Company. We drove up a steep slope to the winery. From the car park we stopped to admire the view. Just off the car park were picnic tables. It looked like a marvelous place to have a picnic whilst drinking a bottle of wine. We arrived just after they opened and were the first customers. Inside their tasting room were a couple of wine servers who were very friendly. A charge was levied to sample the better wines but four of the cheaper wines were complimentary. We went for the cheaper option. We noticed that the wine bottles did not have corks but glass stoppers and so asked why. Apparently all their wines are sold with the glass stoppers as they consider them to be better than corks. Of the four complimentary wines we sampled we liked two and bought a Chardonnay Central Coast and a Pinot Noir Central Coast. As we were leaving they gave us a glass stopper which can be used on any wine bottle, which we thought was very nice of them.
Pietra Santa Winery along the San Benito Wine Trail.
We drove back the way we came, looking for the winery we missed. We thought we missed it again as we approached DeRose Vineyards. Then we saw the Pietra Santa Winery sign. It was up a side road immediately next to the DeRose Vineyards. As soon as we started driving up the long road to it, passing through lots of vines, we knew we were finally into wine growing country. The leaves on the vines were starting to turn a lovely reddish brown and there were still grapes growing on the vines. One last turn and we saw the winery in front of us and the whole setting was perfect. What a surprise to find a beautiful winery almost on our doorstep. The car park was large and in each direction we could see vines growing on the gently sloping hills. In the car park were a large number of Ford Mustangs and when we got inside we realized why as there was a big group having a meal.
The tasting room we found at the top of a flight to stairs and once again we were warmly welcomed. We didn’t know at the time but we were in for a wonderful treat. There was a $5 wine tasting fee but it would be deducted from any wine we bought. Well we tried lots of different wines. Starting with the whites we tried the Gewurztraminer 2005 to kick off with and it was good. The Signature Collection Amore Pinot Grigio was next which was OK. My favorite was the Signature Collection Chardonnay, aged in French oak barrels. It was sublime with a hint of vanilla. Tom tried the reds – the 2006 Sangiovese, the 2006 Dolcetto, the 2006 Cabernet and finished up with a couple of the Signature Collection wines, the 2004 Vache Red Blend and the Cabernet Sauvignon. He was impressed with them all. In fact we were so impressed with everything that we joined their Wine Club there and then. We bought four bottles to take home with us – the Gewurztraminer, the Signature Collection Chardonnay, the Sangiovese and the Dolcetto. For good measure they threw in a bottle of their olive oil
We were all wined out so didn’t make it to the fourth winery. Instead we drove back to San Juan Bautista feeling very happy with ourselves for finding such a wonderful gem so close to home. We will be regular visitors to the Pietra Santa Winery.
December 28 2010 | Special Places | 2 Comments »
December 22, 2010
Marin Cross Trail
On a beautiful morning in late fall we tried out a new bike ride (at least for us) in Marin called the Marin Cross Trail. When I did a little research I discovered it is also called the Sir Francis Drake Bikeway. Tom came across mention of the trail in ‘Weekend Sherpa’, which is free weekly email newsletter.
It took roughly one and a half hours to reach the beginning of the trail (not including our breakfast stop at The Barefoot Cafe). The trail parallels Sir Francis Drake Boulevard and the start is on Platform Bridge Road, which was a turning on the right not far past Samuel P Taylor State Park. We parked in a small pullout. There were no other cars there. To get to the trail we had to cross an aging concrete bridge with a 5 ton weight limit. The actual beginning was signposted at the end of the bridge where we turned left. The trail is along the track of the North Pacific Coast Railroad, which used to run from Larkspur to Cazadero.
There had been quite a bit of rain over the previous few days and the trail was wet and covered in damp leaves. In fact water could be heard dripping from the trees at the side of the trail. Down below the sound of a babbling creek could be heard. This was the Lagunitas Creek which flows into Tomales Bay. When Tom stopped to take photos I checked it out. The first winter rains had set the creek in motion. I could hear cars passing on the nearby Sir Francis Drake Boulevard but they could not be seen.
Fall Color along the Marin Cross Trail
Tom is looking for fall colors but there was not too much be be seen. Towering redwoods were the dominant trees and they don’t lose their leaves in the autumn. Further along the trail we were out in the open. On our left, grassy hills rose steeply. Cattle were grazing. Here the sun could be seen and felt. Then we were riding through redwoods again where only the occasional shaft of sunlight found it’s way through the trees.
There was not much traffic on the trail – some couples taking a walk and the odd cyclist of two. Back in the shade again we passed a sign which informed us we were entering the Samuel P Taylor Park. Tom stopped to take some photos of some magnificent redwoods. The base of the redwoods were below the level of the trail and by running my eyes up the trunk of one of them I could only see the canopy by craning my neck. Looking back to the base I noticed that three huge trees formed a large circle. The first generation redwood originally stood in that circle and one can only imagine what the size of that tree would have been. We stopped again where there was a good view of the creek. At that point the creek was wide with trees leaning over the water. Upstream a whole tree had fallen across the creek.
The ride became more interesting as a series of information boards gave the history of the surrounding area. Back in the second half of the 19th century there was not only a thriving paper mill and a dam but a small town called Taylorville here. Although the boards described the mill, the railway, the ox cart trail and Camp Taylor, it did not tell me about the man. For that I had to wait until I got home. Samuel P Taylor was born in New York and came to San Francisco during the gold rush. He didn’t immediately rush off to the search for gold, although he did have some success in the 1850′s. He realized there was more money to be made in providing other commodities such as lumber. Once he had saved up enough money, he ventured into Marin and arrived in what is now Lagunitas. There he purchased some land and started building the first paper mill. Over the next few years he married and raised a family and developed other features on his property, including the first ever fish ladder in the west to enable the salmon to get over the dam he had built. When the North Pacific Railroad was built he encouraged holiday makers to come by building both a hotel and allowing people to camp on his land. One of the boards had a quote from ‘The Making of Marin’ by Jack Mason – “The mill, first class for its time….supplied every San Francisco newspaper with newsprint. If the Bolinas schooner was late, so were the papers.”
Lagunitas Creek winding along the Marin Cross Trail
As we cycled on we caught the smell of wood smoke and then we passed a campsite. Even though the weather was mild I was surprised at the number of people camping. It is nice to know that people still come to this area to camp, so carrying on the Camp Taylor tradition. The asphalt road ran out soon afterward and we were on a gravel road. We spotted some blue plastic tufts planted in the roadway and were curious as to what they were. There were about four in a line. Soon we saw some more and then we kept seeing them. They were obviously markers of some sort but we are still wandering what they could have been marking.
We didn’t quite make it to the end of the trail because our time was running out. The ride back was exhilarating for two reasons. The first being we had views of the creek nearly all the way and the second because it was mostly down hill. I had not even realized that we had been traveling up hill on the way south because it seemed level but there must have been a slight rise.
The Marin Cross Trail is a very good bike ride and we would love to come again some time.
December 22 2010 | Special Places | 1 Comment »
December 16, 2010
The Barefoot Cafe in Fairfax, California
Last month we attempted to have breakfast at The Barefoot Cafe in Fairfax but it was closed. This trip we were more successful. The Barefoot Cafe is easy to find in the middle of Fairfax and right on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Parking is a doddle on a large parking lot in the middle of the street.
Inside we were shown to a table towards the back and next to a window. Two cops sat at the table behind us. There were a fair number of customers already having breakfast and a low hum of conversation permeated the air. Music played in the background but I could not really make out what kind it was.
The menu was extensive – they also serve lunch. Tom chose from the specials list – Crab Benedict. As for me, I honed in on the oatmeal because, wonder of wonders, they serve steel cut oats. It was not cheap at $7.95 but it sounded irresistible – ‘Organic Steel Cut Oatmeal topped with strawberries, blueberries and flaxseed served with brown sugar, honey or maple syrup.’
Decoration was minimal. A few medium sized pumpkins were placed here and there. No little knick knacks anywhere but several tasteful oil paintings hung on the walls. The only deviation being a map of Italy displayed nearer the bar.
The presentation of the food was fantastic. Tom’s Crab Benedict came stuffed full of fresh Dungeness crab and accompanied by an excellent hot sauce. My oatmeal had sliced strawberries and blueberries on top with a sprinkle of flaxseed. Two things could be improved to make everything perfect. I had to ask for milk and it came in a small cup which was difficult to pour. I asked for the honey instead of brown sugar or maple syrup but I was not expecting the honey to be Smucker’s in pre-packed plastic containers. Surely in Marin they could serve real honey? Tom wanted to add that he thought that the coffee was really good. Certainly as good as the coffee he makes at home.
The restroom was unisex, clean and smelt nice. On the wall hung a small framed print of bicycles parked in the shade against a building. It was signed David Knoll and date 10/06.
Would we come back? You bet.
Fueled by our Eggs Benedict and oatmeal, we were on our way try out the Cross Marin Trail on our bikes.
The Barefoot Cafe
1900 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard
Fairfax, CA 94930
December 16 2010 | Breakfast Log | No Comments »
December 10, 2010
Crystal Springs with the fog creeping over the coastal hills.
For this trip we decided to take a drive along Skyline Boulevard. This highway starts in San Francisco on Sloat Boulevard and heads towards the ocean and then south all the way to Highway 17. It is called Skyline because it lies along the ridge of the coastal range of mountains between the ocean and Highway 280. It is not a heavily used road. I have only been on sections of it so wanted to explore it a bit more. We did not start at the beginning of the highway but picked it up just north of Crystal Springs by taking the Hayne Road exit off 280.
Instantly we were in a different world as we turned onto Highway 35 going south. To the right was a golf course and a sign pointed left to Sawyer Camp Trail. A finger of fog hovered over the Upper Crystal Springs Reservoir. We turned onto Crystal Springs Road and parked as we wanted to get a closer look at Crystal Springs and to walk along the Sawyer Camp Trail. Highway 280 towered above us on a huge overpass. Many years ago I walked a part of the Sawyer Camp Trail. The trail is part of the Crystal Springs Regional trail which stretches for over 15 miles from San Bruno in the north to Huddart County Park near Woodside in the south. It consists of three sections; the 2.6 mile San Andreas segment in the north, the 6 mile Sawyer Camp segment in the middle and the 6.7 mile Crystal Springs segment to the south. It was 7.30 in the morning and only the serious joggers and a few hikers were around. Crystal Springs is in a really beautiful setting and lies right on the San Andreas Fault. Water from the Hetch Hetch Reservoir in Yosemite is piped to Crystal Springs. On the other side of the reservoir is a wooded ridge. Until recently this area was completely unaccessible to the public but now it is possible to book a guided tour along the Fifield-Cahill Ridge. We walked north, stopping to take photos along the way, for short distance before turning around. Back at the beginning again, we took a side trail to the Crystal Springs Dam. This dam is well over 100 years old and survived both the 1906 and the 1989 earthquakes. It is urgent need of repair and will soon be closed for three months.
Another shot of Crystal Springs Reservoir. Drinking water for much of the Bay Area.
Back in the car we headed south again, crossing the old dam and heading to the junction with Highway 92, which is the main route into Half Moon Bay. This road is always busy at the weekends as Half Moon Bay is a popular destination. Even at 8.30 the traffic was building up. Skyline Boulevard joins Hw92 for a short distance, crossing over the reservoir. At the top Skyline turns left and heads south away from Hwy 92 with Crystal Springs to our left. It was still a little foggy but the views would be outstanding if visibility were better. We passed the well known Bella Vista restaurant . I’ve heard people talk about it, especially the view of San Francisco it offers, but have never been. I looked back to see if I could see the city at all and there was with nothing but fog in between. We would have liked to stop and take some photos but there was no suitable place to pull into.
We passed Purisima Creek Redwoods Open Space on our right. Purisima has
The 100 year old dam holding it all back. Crystal Springs lake straddles the San Andreas Fault so when the next big one hits this dam could cause big problems.
towering redwoods with lots of trails. When the first explorers from the west discovered this area, the entire area was covered in enormous redwoods. Of course logging depleted them dramatically. The redwoods that we see today are second or third generation. There is also an entrance to the west on Purisima Creek Road. Tom took me for a hike on the lower section on one of my early visits to California and I vividly remember seeing my first banana slug. To see such a brightly colored slug was a real eye opener.
We pulled into a scenic turnout where a large number of cyclists gathered, whether at the start of a ride or merely taking a short break we didn’t know. The area is called Skeggs Point, named after Colonel John Hunt Skeggs who was a Caltrans engineer. We thought it was a vista point but the only view was was of the far side of the bay through a small gap in the trees. I expect when it was built there would have been a view but since then trees have grown to block it. A Coast and Geodetic Survey Benchmark of 2,315 ft has been placed there. I’m sure when Skeggs Point was created it looked very attractive but now it is a bit run down and dilapidated.
It was time to think about breakfast. Fortunately Alice’s Restaurant is very conveniently located on Skyline. Our last visit was in January this year and it was much the same as before. This time we sat on the covered patio at the side. One thing missing was the quote written on the restroom wall.
Windy Hill Open Space Preserve. Looking down on the fog covered Bay Area.
After breakfast we continued our drive south on Skyline but just a short way along we stopped at Windy Hill Open Space Preserve. This preserve is on the left hand side with views towards the bay. I stopped to study the large map near the entrance to decide which trail to walk and chose the Spring Ridge Trail. It was still foggy in the valley but we could see Mount Diablo on the east side of the bay. On the trail we were above the fog and the sun was shining. Windy Hill normally lives up to its name and is a good place to fly kites but that day there wasn’t very much wind at all. We didn’t walk the whole length of the trail – we could have walked all the way to Portola Road and Alpine Road – because we still have some way to go.
Soon after leaving Windy Hill we left the redwoods behind us and the countryside became more open. We had views on both sides of the road. The San Mateo and the Dumbarton Bridges were not visible but San Bruno Mountain could be seen.
I have only mentioned a couple of the open spaces and preserves we passed but here is a list of all the ones we passed with parking easily accessible from Skyline:
Phleger Estate
Huddart Country Park
El Corte de Madera Creek Open Space Preserve
Coal Creek Regional Open Space
Russian Ridge Open Space Preserve
Skyline Regional Open Space
Upper Stevens Creek Country Park
Long Ridge and Saratoga Gap Regional Open Space
Castle Rock State Park
Sanborn Skyline Country Park
There are plenty more very close to Skyline – Burleigh Murray Ranch State Park, Wunderlich Country Park, La Honda Creek Regional Open Space, Foothills Park, Los Trancos Regional Open Space, Monte Bello Regional Open Space and Rancho San Antonio Open Space Preserve. The whole length of Skyline Boulevard is a hiker’s paradise.
We cheated by not driving to the end of Skyline. Instead we took Black Road, which was a short cut to Highway 17. It was a single track road and extremely twisty but a very interesting drive. Before long we were passing houses and were back into civilization. We enjoyed our day out, not only the drive but the couple of trails we tried out. Lots more to do on another day.
December 10 2010 | Special Places | 1 Comment »
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