Davenport coastline looking south towards Monterey

It was a foggy morning when we set off from home for Bean Hollow Beach but the forecast said the sun would burn off the fog. We were slightly concerned that the Santa Cruz mountain range would be fog bound, which would have made the drive a little scary, but miraculously the fog disappeared as soon as we left the valley. In fact the drive over the mountains was wonderful with a perfect view of Monterey as we crested the summit.

(Click on the photos for larger versions)

Once again we must apologize for the lack of posts recently, due to bad weather over several weekends and an unfortunate accident. Both situations are much improved now I’m pleased to say.

Crossing over the tracks heading towards the ocean at Davenport, California

After our fabulous breakfast at Zachary’s in Santa Cruz, we drove north on Highway 1. We stopped in Davenport because Tom had read somewhere that there were the remains of old pier in Davenport. We parked right opposite the Whale City Bakery Bar & Grill and walked towards the ocean. We soon came to the edge and looked down on a railway track. There was a worn path on the other side of the tracks and all we had do was to find the way to it. At the end of the parking area near a clump of trees we found shale like rock which looked a bit like a staircase so we climbed down, crossed the tracks and picked up the path on the other side. Soon we were at the edge of a steep cliff with wonderful views over a sandy beach and we could see Monterey in the distance. The coastline was spectacular but saw no sign of a pier. Further down I spotted someone sitting on the edge of the cliff with his hound by his side so I went to ask him about the pier. The guy was obviously a local with his dreadlocks, ruddy face, full beard, woolly cap and holding a large cup of coffee in his hands. He readily told us where the remains of the pier were, which was around the point to the north. The path was easy to follow but we stayed away from the edge of the steep cliff. As we walked there was a lovely smell but at first I couldn’t work out where it came from. Then I saw a big swathe of white alyssom and the penny dropped.

Three Pelicans gliding up the coast at Davenport, California

We spied the remains of the pier easily. Only three concrete supports remain. As we didn’t know the history, it was the first thing I checked when I got home. A whaling captain called John Pope Davenport (the town was named after him) built the first pier in 1867 at the mouth of what is now known as the Muddy Water Creek. Lumber was brought down from the hills and shipped to Santa Cruz a little way down the coast. When the steamers could no longer get alongside the pier due to the mud which was also being brought down from the hills, an extension was built to the pier but this did not solve the problem. An even longer pier was built later but that one was destroyed in a storm. (This information came from Wikipedia).

While Tom took loads of photographs, I sat on a concrete block on top of the cliff and contemplated the view. Strings of pelicans skimmed the waves beneath me and out at sea a group of small fishing boats kept me fully absorbed. It was bliss. The sun was warm with no wind to speak of. While I sat there only one person, a surfer, walked by. It was very relaxing and peaceful.

An hour later we were back of the road again driving towards Half Moon Bay. Along the way many cars were parked and surfers were either getting changed into their wet suits, walking towards the ocean with their boards or out on the water waiting for the next big wave. A drive on Highway 1 on Big Sur to the south is always wonderful but this drive to the north is even better in our opinion with it’s many accessible sandy beaches and each of them unique.

Bean Hollow State Beach along the San Mateo coast

At 9:30 we arrived at Bean Hollow State Beach. I expected there to be a day charge to use the beach but I couldn’t see anywhere to pay. We walked to the sandy beach down a partly eroded path. Immediately the unusual honeycomb rock formations attracted our attention. I wandered off down the beach while Tom paused to take photos. There was so much to take in. Looking down at the sand I could see all kinds of tracks – birdlife, crabs and human – besides all the flotsam washed up on the beach like seaweed, shells and driftwood. By looking up I could take in the cliff face and then, looking out over the ocean I could see the waves breaking on the rocky outcrops. A family group with four small boys were having fun in a little lagoon. Several sandcastles attested to their other activities. I sat on a big driftwood log and even thought about taking my sweater off as it was so warm but all too soon Tom had caught up with me and it was time to explore the trail along the top of the beach.

A half hidden flight of wooden steps at the north end of the beach led to the top of the bluff. The trail is close enough to the highway to see and hear the traffic but the sound of the waves breaking blurred most of noise.

It was an interesting trail. I was surprised at the amount of color around in the plant life from both flowers and greenery. The ice plant, even though it is an invasive plant, has bright purple or yellow flowers. There were small information boards every so often which told me things I didn’t know like the fact that the Ohlone people collected olive shells here to make jewelry and the fact that the foam seen washed up on the beach is created by algae and is natural. In other words, it is not soapsuds. The trail is easy to negotiate though very narrow. Several small wooden bridges crossed the wetter places and the occasional flight of wooden steps made climbing the hills easier.

Strange rock erosion called Tafoni

About half way along the trail there is a convenient bench to sit on and I took advantage of it. Here I did take my sweater off. Sitting there gave me a chance to catch up with my writing. When I saw Tom appear in the distance I carried on with my walk. I spotted a small snake slithering across the path and through the plants and wanted to take a photo but it had disappeared before I was able to get my camera out of its case. Should be easy to identify when I get home because it had a bright yellow line along its spine. (It was a Santa Cruz Gartersnake but, as it was not very big, I’m guessing it was just a baby one).

I walked all the way to Pebble Beach where there was a small car park. It is also part of the Bean Hollow State Beach. Here was an interesting information board telling me that the honeycomb rock formations are called Tafoni which is caused by rock weathering and erosional processes. I tried calling Tom on my cell phone to tell him where I was but there was no network coverage so I turned around and walked back.

Ice plant flower. Stuff grows like a weed (is a weed) but at least the flower is pretty.

I caught up with Tom back at the bench and he told me all the interesting features he had been using with his camera. On the way back to the car we analyzed the remains of a large bird which had come to grief in a patch of ice plant. When I passed it earlier I thought it was the remains of a young sea gull but Tom deduced it was a pelican by the shape of its skull.

We stopped in Pescadero on the way home at Harley Goat Farm to buy some of my favorite honey and lavender cheese plus some feta cheese as well. Of course we had to sample lots of the other cheeses and some scrumptious boysenberry, blackberry and raspberry preserve. Since our last visit they have extended the shop and now on sale are some gorgeous wooden chopping boards imported from Wales, socks made with wool from angora goats imported from Yorkshire and garden tools made of copper and tin imported from Hungary.

We were home just after 2 o’clock and we both agreed that for the price of gas, a wonderful breakfast and some cheese, it had been a perfect day.

San Francisco skyline on the way over to Angel Island from Tiburon

A few weeks ago Margaret attended a voice over class in Sausalito so I had the day to head over to Angel Island. The Angel Island Immigration Station was recently restored. It’s very well done and quite moving to see how people were treated while trying to immigrate. Not a real proud moment in our history but it is what it is and to their credit the State Parks Department didn’t sugar coat it.

Between 1910 and 1940 the Angel Island Immigration Station was where immigrants were detained if they were sick, their papers weren’t in order or they were Chinese. After 1924 immigrants were detained there if they were from anywhere in Asia. Families were separated and kept in locked, cramped, unsanitary quarters. The immigration station was called the “Ellis Island of the west” but the treatment of Asians, Russians, Mexicans and other immigrants was not welcoming at all.  If you were European or held first and second class tickets you would be processed on board ship and allowed to disembark in San Francisco. If not you you were taken to Angel Island for processing. Sometimes it would take months to finally get approval to immigrate. Many folks were sent back to their native country. Here’s more information on their journey to America.

During their confinement under lock and key many took to carving poetry in the wall. As you wander around the barracks you can see the graffiti on just about all the walls.  Most were painted and plastered over but the markings are still visible. It’s very moving to see what must have been desperate times.

Detained in this wooden house for several tens of days,
It is all because of the Mexican exclusion law which implicates me.
It’s a pity heroes have no way of exercising their prowess.
I can only await the word so that I can snap Zu’s whip.

From now on, I am departing far from this building
All of my fellow villagers are rejoicing with me.
Don’t say that everything within is Western styled.
Even if it is built of jade, it has turned into a cage.

– From the walls of Angel Island Immigration Station, author unknown

Some of the graffiti carved in the walls.

Really enjoyed my day on Angel Island. Next time we’ll bring the bikes again.

Coastal scene from Point Lobos State Reserve

Our destination was Point Lobos State Natural Reserve  to the south of Carmel just off Highway 1. On our last visit to Big Sur, we had planned to stop off at the park but, being tight with our cash, we wanted to park outside and walk in. There were no safe spots outside the park so we carried on. This time we were prepared to pay the entrance fee.

We set off before 6 while it was still dark. There was a nip in the air, Fall is upon us. Traffic was surprisingly heavy for a Sunday morning at that time. Within an hour, we were approaching Monterey. It was beginning to get light. Then we ran into fog, which was not unexpected. We hoped the sun would burn it all off in due course.

Of course breakfast was a priority and we stopped at the Barnyard Shopping Village outside Carmel at the From Scratch Restaurant – see previous post. Driving back towards Highway 1 afterwards on Carmel Valley Road, we were surprised to discover that we couldn’t turn left. We assumed there must be another way out of the Barnyard  Shopping Village which would have brought us to traffic lights where we would have turned left.

Old whalers cabin in Whalers Cove at Point Lobos Reserve

The entrance to Point Lobos SNR was on our right about a mile further south. There were several cars parked outside but we turned into the park. The entrance fee is $10 per car or $9 for seniors. We happily parted with our $9 and received a brochure, which included a very detailed map. Looking at the map, we decided to head for Whalers Cove first.

The car park was very nearly full but we were lucky to grab the last spot available. This is the only place in the reserve where scuba divers can enter the water and we decided that most of the cars parked there must belong to scuba dives because there were a lot of people walking around in wet suits andy most of the vehicles had scuba gear in the back. According to the Point Lobus SNR, only half of the park can be viewed onland.  By scuba diving you see the other half.

Immediately we were struck by the awesome beauty of the place. A sheltered bay was in front of us thick with kelp. We walked back up the road to the old cabin at the side of the road. A plaque outside said it was built by Chinese fishermen in the 1850′s. It is now used as a cultural history museum. Peeking through the window it looked interesting but it didn’t open until 9 am. Just opposite a sign marked the beginning of the Granite Point Trail so that is where we headed.

Sea otter at Point Lobos State Reserve

It was a beautiful trail and so peaceful. The sun had come out and it was quite warm but it felt chilly when walking through the shady parts.  Fortunately I had my sweatshirt on. I also had my binoculars and was on the lookout for sea otters as kelp is their favorite feeding ground. I saw no sea otters at that point but I did hear the distinctive tap, tap, tap of an otter probably using a stone to break open a shellfish. The path twisted and turned and a different view was revealed every couple of minutes. From the other side of the bay, I watched a boat pull into the cove and half a dozen scuba divers swam out to it. The first part of the trail is wheelchair accessible and where that part ends there is a conveniently placed bench.  If it hadn’t been in the shade I would have taken the opportunity to sit down and take in the view.

Instead we took a less accessible trail down to Coal Chute Point. The point is so named because in the 1870′s coal was discovered nearby. After the coal was mined it was taken first by horse drawn wagons and then loaded into ore carts on a tramway and taken to Coal Chute Point.  The water there is very deep and ships could get close to land to take on the coal as it cascaded from the chute. Now there is a a wonderful view of Monterey Bay.  It was here I saw my first otters of the day. A pair of them were not far off shore, an adult and lighter colored juvenile. The white face of the adult was clearly visible. They swam on their backs and dived every so often. After one dive the adult appeared with a shellfish in its paws and it turned on its back and swam out of sight. It was a real treat to see them so close. Tom spotted a bird down below, busily probing the rocks. It was black with yellow eyes, a red beak and light pink feet. I’d seen one before at Mendocino and couldn’t work out what it was. This time I tried harder. A lady walking by saw me consulting iBird West on my iPad. She said she thought it was an oyster catcher and with that information I was able to find out that it was a Black Oyster Catcher.

The trail we were on went a little further towards Granite Point and joined up with the Moss Cove Trail but we turned back. The museum in the whalers cabin beckoned us. Inside the cabin Wayne, the volunteer in charge, was happy to talk about the reserve and passed on lots of useful information. The exhibits in the museum displayed not only the cultural history of the area back to when a branch of the Ohlone tribe called Rumsien were in residence for about 2,500 years until the early 1800′s but also the commercially viable industries which sprouted up in the mid 19th century.  The first to arrive in the early 1850′s after the Rumsien had disappeared were Chinese fishermen who made the perilous journey across the Pacific in small junks. They set about harvesting abalone which abounded in the ocean. This industry flourished until the 1920′s.  In the mid 1850′s a granite quarry was established in Whalers Cove. The car park is now on the site. From the trail you can easily see where the quarry was. Portuguese whalers arrived in the 1860s and that business thrived for over 20 years.

The pristine park we can enjoy today was very nearly a non starter. In the 1890′s a scheme was hatched to sell 1,000 residential lots in the Whalers Cove area. Fortunately an engineer from back East came and fell in love with the area. His name was Alexander Allan. He bought 640 acres and he also set about buying up all the residential lots which had been sold. In the 1920′s, efforts were made to protect the cypress tress which grow here and no where else. First of all Allan sold some of his land to the State of California and later donated a whole lot more and the reserve was born.

The fog rolling in at Point Lobos Sate Reserve

It was time to move on and explore some more of Point Lobos. Our next stop was where both the Sea Lion Point Trail and the Cypress Grove Trail start. The park was getting busier but once again we found a parking place without too much trouble. We decided to take the Cypress Grove Trail and discovered a whole lot more of the attractions to be seen. At the end of this small peninsula is the Allan Memorial Grove. It is a circular trail and we took the counter-clockwise direction. We walked to the first overlook and were surprised to see some fog rolling in which looked like smoke coming off the trees. While I was admiring the view and Tom was busy taking photograps, a group of bird watchers turned up. One of the guys was wearing an Oregon Ducks T-Shirt and he commented on my Oregon Ducks sweatshirt. It always surprises me how many people say ‘Go Ducks’ when they see my sweatshirt. They were a chatty group and as we were leaving someone spotted an Oregon Junco – how appropriate. Apparently it is hard to tell the difference between them and the Yellow Eyed Junco apart from their call.

Further along the trail as we neared North Point it became steeper and the views more spectacular. At Pinnacle Cove there were steps going up and then down on the other side. Although there was fog offshore it was not drifting ashore so the views along the coast were of the Big Sur coastline which has to be seen to be believed. I can see why they call this reserve the ‘jewel of the California state park system’. Back in the car park, we contemplated taking the Sea Lion Point Trail but opted to drive to the end of the road to take in the whole park. The road is a wee bit narrow in places and because folks are so busy looking at the views, they tend to wander into the middle of the road. One has to drive very carefully. At the start of the Bird Island Trail we turned around in the car park and headed back.

We certainly enjoyed our time at the Point Lobos State Reserve and wonder why we had never visited before.  I’m sure we will come here again and walk some more of the trails.

Carnegie Arts Center in Turlock, California

We are back on the road again after a long absence. This Summer has been interesting with visitors, vacations and other obligations. It is good to be on our travels once again.

It was a Sunday and we were on our way home from Fresno to San Jose via Turlock. Why did we want to go to Turlock and where the heck is it? Turlock is in the Central Valley to the south of Sacramento and we wanted to go to the Ansel Adams photography exhibition  in the Carnegie Arts Center . I had to look on the map to see exactly where Turlock was as I had never heard of it. Our route was along Highway 99. Up to this point, I had only been on Highway 99 from Fresno to Highway 152 and so far I had not impressed. Once beyond Chowchilla the surroundings improved for a while. Turlock itself was not too bad either.

The exhibition is being held at the newly refurbished Carnegie Arts Center until January 8, 2012 .  The building was once a library built in 1916 with Carnegie funding. In 1968 a new library was built in Turlock and the original building became an Arts Center. In 2005 a fire gutted the building. For a few years it was debated whether or not to rebuild or to start from scratch. Thank goodness the decision was made to preserve as much of the original building as possible and to build an extension to it which complemented the original design. The newly restored outside was impressive; the blending of the new with the original had been very well done. Inside was remarkable too. The grand opening had been the day before and we were the first members of the general public to turn up that day. We were greeted very warmly and made to feel really special. We were expecting to pay the advertsied entrance fee of $10 but were told the first weekend was free. We were encouraged to give a donation, which we were happy to do.

The exhibition itself was amazing. Of course there were the well known Ansel Adams photographs but also a lot nobody had seen before. There was one section on his portraits and these were the ones I liked the best. My favorite was one depicting a farming family in the Central Valley sitting on a porch. Tom liked one of a lady on the inside of a screen door looking out but not at the camera. Each picture had a comprehensive description at the side including where it was taken and when. One interesting touch was a long video showing excerpts from different interviews with Ansel Adams. I had seen photos of him but to actually hear him talk and see him in different locations was truly revealing.

It took us a couple of hours to take in all the Ansel Adams photographs and then we took a wander around the rest of the building. At one point we could see the external wall of the original brick building with signs of the damage caused by the fire.  One gallery is in the old building but it was completely empty.  The day before it had been a hive of activity on Opening Day.  It looks like a great place to hold a wedding. In the new section there is also a conference room.

Del Puerto Canyon

Back on the road again, we drove towards I5 through Patterson. Now Patterson was another town I had never been to before and was surprised at the number of palm trees lining the roads. Tom and I were discussing which route we would take home – drive south to Highway 152 through Gilroy and onto 101 or north to I580 and over the Altamont, through Livermore to I680. Then we noticed that there was a third alternative over the Diablo Range and Mount Hamilton to Highway 130. We decided to live dangerously and go the road ‘less traveled’. Before we embarked on our adventure, we stocked up on food and water just in case we broke down. We were a little worried how we would find the right road over the mountains but it turned out to be easy. The main road from Patterson passed under I5 and we found ourselves on Del Puerto Canyon Road. Within minutes we left civilisation behind and enjoyed the scenic ride. The road, at least until we had driven through Frank Raines Park where we saw green grass, was well maintained but we saw very few cars on Del Puerto Canyon Road. We stopped to eat our lunch in idyllic surroundings halfway between the park and Highway 130.  Not one car passed us. We were relieved to reach 130 without breaking down. The highest point was Mt Hamilton, where the Lick Observatory is situated. From then on we had plenty of traffic to contend with, especially all the cyclists. We were happy to drive slowly behind them as they coasted down the mountain until it was safe to pass them. The cyclists going the other way took the steep gradient effortlessly but I didn’t envy them. As we drove through the Joseph D Grant Country Road I saw Quimby Road off the the right. Checking the map, it looked a quicker way to get back, so we turned round and turned onto it. Then began the narrowest and steepest road we had encountered all day with some really heart stopping hairpin bends. The views over Silicon Valley were spectacular though. Before too long we were back into civilization and on Capital Expressway. Yes it did take longer to take that route home but we really enjoyed ourselves. It is not something we would do every time we travel to the Central Valley but we were pleased we had done it once.

Quaint Mendocino along the northern California coast

This is our last day in Fort Bragg.  Several family members were driving home today and left early in the morning so we bid them farewell. A large proportion of the wedding party remained and were going on the Skunk Train. We did think about joining them but when we looked into it we changed our mind. We thought the train would be going all the way from Fort Bragg to Willits but, on looking closer, the round trip from Fort Bragg only goes halfway to Northspur. There is another train which goes from Willits to Northspur. The price was $49 each, presumably for each round trip, so we decided it was too expensive. The weekend so far had been just within our budget and a trip on the Skunk Train would have pushed us over the limit. We decided to do a bit of sightseeing.

Judy, Rachel’s Mum, came with us so the three of us set off at about 9:30 in the morning. Our first stop was Noyo Harbor. It was a little difficult to find. We guessed where it was because just north of the junction with Highway 20, Highway 1 crosses over a bridge and we could see some small ships. There were no signs pointing to it that we could see but when we saw a street sign which said Harbor Drive we thought it could lead to the harbor, which it did. I, for one,  was surprised how far in from Highway 1 it was and the number of big fishing ships which were moored there. We parked our car near the Highway 1 bridge and walked down to a small beach. Tom, as usual, was busy taking photographs so Judy and I wandered on down to the water and chatted. I noticed some strange tracks in the sand. They led from underneath some rocks and meandered across the sand, under a log and to another rock. At first I was convinced they had been left by a snake but on studying them closer we came to the conclusion that a smallish crab had made them.

We got back into the car and headed to the main harbor, but most of the boats were on the other side of the estuary. On our side of the water were a couple of eating and watering holes, fishing tackle shops and other marine type services. A lot of places were advertising fishing trips.

Noyo Harbor in Fort Bragg

After we had exhausted what there was to see at Noyo Harbor we turned south on Highway 1 and headed to Mendocino. I have been to Mendocino a few times and it is cute. It is a very arty crafty sort of place with lots of boutique shops selling higher end gifts – but not too classy. I did buy a couple of Christmas presents which I will take to England when I visit in August. The weather was once again on the sunny side though occasionally the sun disappeared behind the clouds. We wandered around a couple of art galleries and then to the back streets looking for the Mendocino Art Center. Judy had been there a few times and had been very impressed with it but she couldn’t remember quite where it was. We went up and down streets looking for it but it was no hardship. We were away from most of the shops and in the residential area. There are some very nice little houses there and most gardens were well tended with lots of flowers and shrubs. We kept seeing a strange looking tree and none of us knew what it was. They seemed to be growing like weeds there. In one house where they had at least half a dozen specimens, they had posted a sign explaining what they were. I did write down the name on the back of a receipt but, of course, when I needed the information I could not find the receipt. I hoped Tom managed to get some nice photos of them (Tom: Nope I didn’t). If anybody who has been to Mendocino knows what they are, I would be most grateful to hear from you.

By this time we were all hungry and still hadn’t found the Art Center. Near the Post Office we found the Mendocino Deli on Ukiah street and it looked ideal. I had a bowl of clam chowder, Tom and Judy had sandwiches. They have a nice little garden at the back which we retreated to to wait for our food. It was very pleasant sitting there eating our lunch and chatting, chatting, chatting. After we had our fill we continued our mission to find the Mendocino Art Center by tramping the back streets of Mendocino.

Eventually Judy became excited because she began to recognize familiar signs and suddenly there it was - The Mendocino Art Center . The main building was set in a beautiful garden with other associated buildings on the periphery. Looking at their website, the art center has more to offer than a tour round the various galleries in the main building. The other buildings houses artists’ studios and workshops are held throughout the year. There is also accommodation available at a very reasonable reate for those attending workshops. The center offers various musical entertainments as well and during the summer months BBQs are held where the entrance and music is free but there is a small charge for the food. It is quite a happening place.

But to get round to our visit on this day, the garden is a sight for sore eyes even before the front entrance is reached. Many interesting and varied sculptures can be spotted and discovered in various areas of the garden. On the front lawn were an amusing collection of sculptures which twisted and twirled with the wind, made out of a variety of odd materials. To the left of the front door, is a wonderful, large horse’s head made from twigs and small branches. It is a powerful exhibit.

Saw this guy taking a little siesta at Noyo Harbor

Inside the three of took off in different directions. Don’t know where Judy and Tom wandered off to but I strolled around the ground floor.  I found a gallery displaying paintings which had been entered into a competition, with the winners and runners up marked by ribbons. Then I found myself in a wonderful little gallery which was dedicated to a local artist , Christopher Stuart Lloyd. Sadly he died suddenly in early June this year of a heart attack when he was just 54 years of age. What he has left behind is amazing. What drew me in were a couple of big, round mobiles hanging from the ceiling. On closer inspection of the first one I could see that suspended inside on very thin fishing line, hanging in straight lines, were an assortment of metal objects. Some were relatively large like spoons but others were tiny – nuts, bolts, nails etc. The other mobile contained a collection of cog wheels and clock parts. I read that Christopher used to explore some of the inaccessible beaches on the Mendocino headlands by climbing down to them on a rope. Most of the objects had been washed up many, many years ago from ships which had been shipwrecked along the coast. Also on display at the art center was a poignant poem written by someone who knew him very well. Reading it brought tears to my eyes. Just wish I had written some of the words down.

Mendocino sunset

I had to go outside and sit down on a bench near the horse’s head to reflect and contemplate. When Tom and then Judy joined me I told them about the Christopher Lloyd exhibition and they went to view it. They were similarly affected. Makes me wish I knew about his work beforehand.

We made our way back to Shoreline Cottages to get ready for our last night of celebration, though it was a much reduced party. We all met up at the house where Rachel had been staying and had a BBQ in the garden. This is where Rachel originally planned to hold the wedding. It was right on the coast with a wonderful view of the ocean. We gloried in a wonderful sunset after we had eaten our fill and then chatted and laughed for hours before sad farewells were exchanged and we all made our way back to our respective lodgings.

Seagulls lined up in Fort Bragg

We had arrived at Shoreline Cottages  on Highway 1 before our room was ready. Shoreline Cottages is a small complex of eleven cabins, each decorated with a different theme. Rachel had reserved all but one for some of the wedding party. Some members of both families had arrived the day before but nobody was there. This gave us the opportunity to go and explore a bit.

Back on Highway 1 traveling towards Fort Bragg, we turned left at a sign pointing to Pomo Park Bluffs. As we got out of the car we could hear the mournful tolling of a bell on the top of a buoy which marked the entrance to Noyo harbor. We could not see the harbor from where we stood but we could see the dangerous rock which abounded in Noyo Bay. I’m sure there have been many shipwrecks off this coast.

There were some interesting information boards here and there from which I learnt that Fort Bragg had been a major logging center in it’s prime. When the industry slowed, due to over logging, fishing took over. Off the coast here the local King Salmon are abundant. Now sport fishing is a big tourist attraction. One board informed me that fisherman used to come to this point (which is called Todd’s Point) to look at the sea to decide whether it was safe enough to go to sea. If the weather conditions were less than safe, they would go home and wait for another day. This place (in certain circles) became known as Chicken Point.

We drove into Fort Bragg in search of lunch. I have only been there once before when we had our family Christmas gathering in Casper. The weather was bleak then and I was not impressed with Fort Bragg. We didn’t go into the town center but only to a movie theater on the outskirts. This time around, with the sun shining, it looked a a whole lot better, besides which the historic downtown area is more more interesting. We found a nice little cafe called Living Light which specialized in vegan food. We had a salad each. To drink I had coconut milk and Tom had a ginger and lime concoction.

By the time we returned to Shoreline Cottages, our room was still not ready but some of the family had arrived plus we met the bridegroom’s parents, John and Annette, who’d recently arrived from New Zealand. At 2 we were able to take possession of our room, which was called the Rose and Ivy room. Naturally the bed cover and all the decorations followed this theme. It was a very nice room with a bathroom and fully equipped kitchen.

Rachel and Dave at the wedding rehearsal

The wedding rehearsal was at 3.30 and we were attending as Tom is the photographer. Poor Rachel and Dave have experienced a lot of stress over the last few weeks. Only last week the venue for the wedding had to be changed. Fortunately Rachel and Dave were able to find the ideal location at the Mendocino Botanical Gardens. The twenty minute walk through the gardens from the front entrance to the chosen venue was magnificent but our first view of The Cliff House was daunting.

It turned out to be more of a rustic cabin than a house. There was a lot to be said in favor of it though as the view of ocean through the large window which stretched across the front was awesome. So why was daunting? The mere fact that the window was there posed a problem to Tom from a photographer’s perspective. Also the space seemed very small. The furniture consisted of display tables, information posters on the wall and two huge wooden benches. Tom worked out his strategies though and took a lot of photos during the rehearsal.

The rehearsal went very well. Rachel and Dave had a big hand in the script for the ceremony. It was full of feeling with humorous touches and very moving. We had the opportunity to meet the rest of Dave’s family plus some of Rachel and Dave’s friends who had parts to play in the ceremony the next day. Gayle, a retired Methodist minister who officiated, brought her warm personality, her calm and reassuring way and sense of humor the the proceedings.

Afterwards we all went back to Shoreline Cottages where all the wedding party, consisting of 38 people who were all staying in various locations in Fort Bragg, were gathering for a BBQ. The centerpiece was a signpost made by Jim, Rachel’s Dad, showing all the places and miles from Fort Bragg that folks had traveled from to be with Rachel and Dave on their special day. A good time was had by all, filled with cooking, eating, drinking and having fun. At the end of the evening, the diehards congregated around the fire pit to round off the evening.

Rachel's wedding gown with boots of course

The next day Tom and I arrived early at the house where Rachel was staying to take the ‘before’ photos. Rachel didn’t want photos of her getting ready or with bridesmaids and other people fussing around, so we concentrated on the dress and shoes. Did I say shoes? To be correct, this was one of the areas where Rachel showed her uniqueness because she was going to wear boots. Not just boots but cowboy boots and they were not just cowboy boots either but blue cowboy boots.

Leaving Rachel to get ready, Tom and I made our way to the botanical gardens where we parked in the event parking area which cut the walking time to the Cliff House down to five minutes. The weather was perfect with sunshine and no fog. Being right on the coast, a chilly breeze from offshore cooled things down but, considering days like this in Fort Bragg don’t happen as often as they do further south where we live, we considered ourselves lucky.

The Cliff House had been transformed by a team of hardworking family members and good friends. The steps down to the cabin were decorated with ribbons. Inside the benches had been pushed up against the back wall, along with the two display tables which had been covered with tablecloths. On one stood the champagne bottles in tubs of ice and glasses. On the other food had been arranged for a light lunch afterwards. Chairs had been brought in to provide seating for guests; vases of gladioli stood in the front; candles and sprigs of lavender were arranged on shelves lining the walls.

Tom busied himself taking photos of guests as they arrived and I was making sure that all couples, groups and special moments were caught. Rachel particularly wanted everybody to wear a hat (shades of the royal wedding in April) and many of the guests complied. Even the men joined in as you can see in the group picture in the gallery below. Instead of flower girls, Dave’s nephew and niece – who happened to be twins – blew bubbles. The bridegroom and his best man arrived looking happy and relaxed. Using her prerogative, Rachel arrived late. Tom and I stood outside to wait for her arrival. We both expected her to take the short walk from the car park so were facing the wrong direction. Glancing backwards I saw Rachel and Salvador (her best dude, not bridesmaid) approaching from the other way.  She looked radiant, strolling along holding up her dress with both hands, clearly showing her blue cowboy boots. Salvador followed, holding up the train of her dress. Tom managed to get a picture before she was brought to a stop so the folks inside didn’t catch a glimpse of the bride too soon.

The happy couple

The ceremony went beautifully and there wasn’t a dry eye in the place at the end. Tom was busy taking photos throughout but his task was made more difficult by the rearranged furniture. There were only two spots he could take photos from the side and avoiding over exposing everybody by taking shots directly towards the window. After the ceremony the photographs outside were taken on top of the bluffs with the ocean and coastline behind. The sun was still shining and nobody seemed to mind the chilly breeze coming off the ocean. The champagne reception with nibbles followed. Tom did stop to take a short break but then he was off again.

When the party broke up, Rachel, Dave, Stef the best man, Salvador the best dude, Tom and I wandered up to the main entrance and photos were taken along the way. The gardens were a perfect place to take some amazing photos – down by a pool, at a gazebo and around a sculpture.

Time to go back to our cottage and chill out for a bit. In the evening the whole wedding party met up at the Mendo Bistro in the center of Fort Bragg for the wedding reception. Even though there were other customers around we had a section laid out for us with nicely decorated tables and a customized menu. Afterwards there were a few speeches but on the whole it was an informal affair with everybody chatting and mingling and getting on like a house on fire. When we returned to Shoreline Cottages a few of us, once again, rounded off the evening around the fire pit with a couple of bottles of wine. The end of a perfect day.

Here’s a gallery of some photos from the wedding.

One of several doorways and archways throughout the beautiful gardens at Filoli.

It was a beautiful day and we were off to Filoli. A lot of you may not know where, or even what, is Filoli, so I will explain.  The Filoli estate is situated in Woodside on 654 acres just south of Crystal Springs. It was built  between 1915 and 1917 by Mr. and Mrs. William Bourn who made their fortune from the Empire Gold Mine in Grass Valley. William Bourn named the estate Filoli. For years nobody knew the origin of the name until a close of associate of his realized it was taken from a credo often quoted by William Bourn – “Fight for a just cause; Love your fellow man; Live a good life”. They lived there from 1917 to 1936.  Mr and Mrs William Roth bought the estate in 1937. William Roth died in 1963 and in 1975 Mrs Roth donated the whole estate to the National Trust for Historic Preservation. The house has 43 rooms and the formal garen consists of a number spaces which are joined but completely different.

(Click on the photos for larger versions)

As it was a Friday and Filoli does not open until 10:00 am, we didn’t leave until after 9:00 am, hoping the traffic would be light. The traffic on 280 was OK but heavier than at 6:00 am on a weekend morning. Approaching the turn off at Edgewood Road and Crystal Springs we spied a finger of fog clinging to the top of the Coastal Range. Canada Road had a few cyclists on it but much less than you would find on a normal Saturday.

The reason we have come to Filoli is because I spotted a half price deal on the Daily Deal offered by the San Jose Mercury News. Armed with the printed ticket I was surprised that neither the guy at the entry kiosk or the two ladies on the admission desk had seen one before but the latter knew about it. Tom and I were each given a sticker which allowed us admission to both house and garden. We were also told of the guided tour starting at 10:00 which is included in the admission price. It sounded interesting but not for us as I like to wander around and discover places on my own and Tom likes to stop frequently to take photographs. Outside we had seen a lot of schoolchildren gathering but they were off on a nature walk which is docent led. These nature walks are available on a Saturday for everybody.

We watched a short video about Filoli before setting off on our own; Tom with his camera and tripod and me with a handy guide book and map which were handed to me when we received our stickers and my trusty IPad. As most of the guided tours go into the house first, we headed for the garden shop and the gardens themselves.

Through the first doorway to this garden with the reflecting pool.

Stepping through a doorway, the first view of the gardens amazed me. In front of me the sunken garden, with its rectangular pond and formally laid out flower beds, took my breath away. I left Tom taking photos and walked through the sunken garden to the swimming pool. Everything looked immaculate from the water in the pool to the trees lining the walkways and the brick paths. At the far end a docent, Ed Carlson, greeted me and for a few minutes we chatted about England and Filoli. He was sitting in the shade of the pavilion and I could tell that he really enjoyed his volunteer job.

From there I meandered across the old tennis court – now a concert area I’m guessing – and through the woodland garden. As I walked from section to section it was like going from one room to another, each area being completely different. Each was a new experience. I walked through an archway, past the bereft daffodil meadow with its bare beds, and found myself in the rose garden. Here I sat for a while on a bench, enjoyed the comparative peace and quiet and spoke to some hens which wandered past. It was also here that Tom and I crossed paths for a short while.

My period of contemplation was over and I walked through another archway. For some reason I could not work out where I was. As I studied the map, a docent spotted me and asked if she could help. She pointed out on my map where we were and soon I was on the right path. The High Place was my next destination and to get there I needed to walk through the rose garden. In the distance I saw Tom and we exchanged greetings as me passed on parallel paths. On my way I walked through an interesting knot garden and the impressive cutting garden. Fragrant sweet peas and an assortment of colorful blooms were at their peak, others flowers were newly planted and a few beds had been prepared for a future planting. The High Place was not really that high but it was windy. A convenient bench with a semicircle of stone pillars behind commanded a wonderful view along a yew tree walk towards Crystal Springs, though I couldn’t see any sign of the lake.

Lavender, lavender, lavender at Filoli

Time to make my way to the house via the fruit garden and along the Upper Terrace. Here I spotted the glint of blue on a bird which flew across my path. Was it a Western Bluebeard? Taking a small detour I found a short wall to sit on while I waited and watched. Nearby I saw a nesting box on a short post and, sure enough, before too long both parents flew backwards and forwards to the nesting box to feed their young. I was enchanted to discover they were Western Bluebirds. I lost track of the time I sat there and studied them but eventually guessed it was time to go and find Tom.

I discovered him sitting of a bench in a shady little courtyard. We made our way to the front entrance of the house and entered through the main door. Not only did we have a map of the house with a description of the rooms but the self guided tour was well signed inside and each room displayed a board which fully described the room. The guide book informed us that ‘The goal of furnishing the House has been to furnish it as it might have been when the House was occupied.’ but the overwhelming impression to us lesser mortals would describe it as over furnished and far more opulent than what we would call a family home.

As we walked through the different rooms – reception, dining, drawing, trophy, flower rooms, and the kitchen, butler’s pantry, library, study and ballroom, we noticed interesting things. In the kitchen there was a servants’ call board and a dumbwaiter whilst in the trophy room there as a huge book containing beautiful paintings of plants grown at Highgrove; which is the home of Prince Charles. It was huge and encased in a glass cabinet. Only one page could be seen which was a pity because I would have loved to turn the pages. When we were in the library, the docent pointed out an anomaly in the wood block floor. He told us to stand in one spot and observe the light and dark shades of the wood. Then he directed us to stand where we could see the same section from the opposite direction. What appeared dark before was light and vice versa. It was obviously due to the grain of the wood but fascinating nevertheless.

Only the downstairs is open to view.  Apparently the upstairs is not furnished and, because there is no fire exit, it does not conform to code. As it was way past our lunchtime, it was time to head home. It had been an interesting visit but, for me at any rate, the gardens were more impressive than the house.

Pietra Santa Winery outside of San Juan Bautista

Several people have asked us where our favorite places are in the Bay Area and our suggestions of places to visit either for themselves or for ideas as to where to take visitors. Recently my daughter Lizzie and her husband Ric visited from England for a couple of weeks. We thought it would be a good idea to write about where they went while they were here to give some ideas to those people.

(Click the photos for larger versions)

They arrived at the tail end of an extremely wet period on a Friday night. The next day rain was forecast and in fact it poured with rain for most of the day. We could have gone into San Jose and paid a visit to The Tech Museum or taken them to the Monterey Bay Aquarium but we decided on a trip to San Juan Bautista. Our first stop there was at Vertigo Coffee at 81 Fourth Street in San Juan, where we all enjoyed a cup of their speciality hot chocolates. If you like hot chocolate you have to try their Marilyn Monroe with coconut or their Charlie Brown with peanut butter. Neither Tom nor I like peanut butter but Lizzie chose the Charlie Brown and we had to taste it just to see what it was like. To me it tasted more like a Snickers Bar, and therefore I liked it, though I will stick to the Marilyn Monroe in future.  Also they have started carrying Bistro Blends Balsamic vinegar which is the best balsamic we have ever tasted and can thoroughly recommend it.

We would have liked to take a walk around the shops in San Juan and the Mission but it was raining too hard. Lizzie and Ric have been here before and know a whole day can be spent here enjoying the sights. Instead we drove into the foothills to visit our favorite winery Pietra Santa. After tasting their selection we bought a couple of bottles of their Signature Chardonnay (my particular favorite), one bottle of Pinot Grigio and one of their Sangiovese.

The next day we took a trip to the Sacramento-San Joaquin River Delta. The weather was better than the day before bit still a little chilly and overcast. We had breakfast at Bab’s Delta Diner in Suisun City before taking tour favorite route to the old Chinese town of Locke via the ferry to Ryer Island, the ferry to Grand Island and drive across Grand Island to Walnut Grove. In Locke we visited the restored boarding house, the Dai Loy Museum and the old schoolroom followed by a walk around the residential area. Of course, every visit to the area finishes up with a vanilla malt in Mel’s Mocha and Ice Cream in Walnut Grove.

Liz at Crissy Field during their bike ride across the Golden Gate Bridge to Sausalito

On the Monday Lizzie and Ric travelled on the train to San Francisco where they stayed for three nights at the Villa Florence on Powell. They spent one day shopping in Union Square; one day cycling and one day walking. For the cycle adventure they rented bikes from Blazing Saddles and rode around the bay, through Crissy Field, over the Golden Gate Bridge, into Sausalito and back to the city by ferry. The walking tour took in Chinatown, Coit Tower, North Beach, the Marina, the Wave Organ near the  the Golden Gate Yacht Club, Fort Mason, Giradelli Square and the Hyde Street cable car back to Powell.

I picked them up, plus all their shopping bags, from the San Jose Caltrain Station on the Thursday evening. The following day I wasn’t working so the three of us took a trip to the coast. As they have never visited Franklin Point, it was the obvious place to head for. It was an interesting day. First of all the 10 foot high tree stump which marks the beginning of the trail to Franklin Point was gone. We found it lying on the ground and noticed the bottom was rotted through. Then we had to wade through 2 feet of water because part of the trail was flooded. It didn’t end there. We had to take a detour to get to the bench because the tide was too high; Lizzie found a necklace partially buried in the sand; I met up again with the guy Tom and I met on our last visit; when we tried walking back along the beach we got soaked when a wave came in much higher than we expected and finally we had a difficult climb to get back to the trail. It was a wonderful day though and we finished our visit by having lunch in Duartes Tavern in Pescadero.

Liz and Ric admiring the view from the top of the de Young Museum in Golden Gate Park.

The next day was Saturday so the four of us drove to San Francisco to cover some of the sights that Lizzie and Ric didn’t get to see during the week including Golden Gate Park – where we visited the De Young – and Haight/Ashbury.

On the Sunday we drove up to Healdsburg in the Sonoma Valley. It was a beautiful day and what could be better than a trip to Healdsburg and  to visit a couple of wineries. Lizzie and Ric have never been to Healdsburg so we knew they were in for a treat. The drive up was magnificent and, being early on a Sunday morning, traffic was light. At 8:30 we were driving over the Golden Gate Bridge. San Francisco sparkled in the sunlight.

We stopped for breakfast at The Lighthouse Cafe in Sausalito where we had a short wait but it was pleasant standing outside in the sunshine and playing with a puppy which was tied to a lamp post a table became available. Our table was in the window so we enjoyed the view. Afterwards, on our way back to 101, we stopped to look at the houseboats juste to the north of Sausalito.

The drive up to Healdsburg, though pleasant, was not exciting. In Healdsburg it was nice to get out of the car and stretch our legs. I love strolling around the cute little town, with its shady tree lined square, irresistible boutiquey shops and inviting restaurants. Lizzie bought a bag, Tom bought a birthday card for his grandson and I pounced on an old sign for my son.

The vineyard outside of Johnson's Alexander Valley Wines. Kind of a funky laid back winery with lucious Zinfandels.

It was time to head for the wineries. First we drove to Alexander Valley and our favorite winery - Johnson’s Alexander Valley Wines at 8333 Highway 128. Johnson’s is a small, family run winery set some way back from the road. We were greeted by Comet, a yellow lab who led us to the tasting room. In his mouth he carried an extremely well chewed tennis ball which he dropped in front of us and looked up at Ric with imploring eyes. Ric responded by kicking the ball so Comet could chase after it. We were told Comet would happily play that game all day long. Leaving Ric to amuse the dog, we retired into the cool tasting room to sample the wines. There were only three to sample and they were all reds.  We ended buying two bottle of their late harvest Zinfandel before heading off to the next winery.  If you like your wineries high class and a bit over the top then Johnson’s isn’t the place for you. Some of the reviews in Yelp are pretty bad but we think those reviewers just don’t get it. This is a laid back winery down a dirt road through a vineyard with some great Zinfandels.  Our next stop was the Hop Kiln in Dry Creek Valley, another favorite or ours. Since our last visit they have redesigned the tasting room with more space for displaying their mustards, sauces, and dips which were produced locally. As there was no space at the counters to taste any wines, we sampled the other goods for sale and bought a jar of their Sweet Garlic Mustard. Later we drifted over to taste the wine when a gap appeared and came away with two bottles pf their Pinot Noir. To round off our visit, we walked to the lake and sat at one of the picnic benches where we contemplated the beautiful view and enjoyed the warmth of the sun before heading back home.

There were only a couple of days left of Lizzie and Ric’s vacation and they spent it getting around our neighborhood by walking and shopping. All to soon it was time to take them back to the airport for their flight home and it was sad waving them off. Next time they visit there will be a host of new places for them to discover.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

One of the views from Franklin Point

Every once in a while we have to visit Franklin Point to enjoy the utter tranquility of the place.  See previous posts here, here and here. It was a last minute decision because we had other plans for this weekend, which were thwarted. We were going to Nevada City to look over a couple of possibilities for our biennial family get together for Christmas this year. The trip had to be postponed due to weather conditions. Highway 20 is closed five miles south of Nevada City due to snow and an avalanche warning.

In San Jose the sun was shining brightly but even here there is a chance of snow. It was forecast that snow could fall at sea level which does not happen very often here. Tom did tell me this morning that snow actually fell in San Francisco last night on some of the highest points but didn’t settle.

On the east side of the Santa Cruz mountains we could see a little bit of snow on the peaks but as soon as we passed over the summit we saw lots of snow, especially in the shaded areas. Tom called it a light dusting. It certainly looked pretty, giving the view a Christmassy appearance. It was a bright day with no hint of fog. Once again we could see Monterey in the distance.

American Abalone Farms. The abalone are raised in those covered tanks.

There was more traffic than we were used to on Highway 1 north of Santa Cruz. A lot of folks on their bikes were already up and about. A smattering of rain drops hit our windscreen. We agreed beforehand that if we ran into rain, we would turn back. Ahead there were no clouds in the sky so we carried on.

Just north of Davenport we spotted a sign advertising farm raised abalone for sale. At Davenport Landing Road we turned left and American Abalone Farm is a short drive down. There were lots of buildings which were obviously where the abalone are raised but we couldn’t see inside as plastic sheeting covered the outside. Stacks of pipes were stacked up and we could hear water being pumped. The abalone are raised in tanks where fresh sea water from the nearby ocean is pumped and they feed on fast growing kelp.

We followed a sign which took us to the farm shop and a very personable young man greeted us. We asked how old abalone had to be before they could be eaten and were told 3 – 3.5 years.  I looked at a chart on the wall showing sizes abalone from hatching up to 3.5 years. Tom remembers a time when you could wade into the water and pry abalone off the rocks. Nowadays they are protected as commercial farming very nearly wiped them all out and now a license is needed to harvest them. I have never eaten abalone before though Tom has consumed a lot in his lifetime. At American Abalone Farms they sell fresh and frozen abalone. We bought four small frozen tenderized steaks ready to be cooked for $20. It sounds expensive but it was worth the money so I could taste them.

Further along the coast we passed a lot of cars parked along the road. This is where Scott Creek flows into the ocean and a favorite place for surfers. Today they were out in force.

Margaret waiting for me on the beach at Franklin Point.

Our main destination, Franklin Point, is  a few miles beyond Ano Nuevo. There were no other cars parked on the gravel pull in next to the landmark tree stump.  Maybe we would have the place to ourselves. The trail was a little muddy. Thank goodness for the raised boardwalk in a couple of places otherwise we would not have got through. In fact, one of the boardwalks is new or at least it was the first time we had seen it. The roped trail between the last two dunes now has a lake on both sides. In the middle, the sandy path had been breached but someone had put down a few bits of wood and it was easy to cross.

Where the trail ended, the recent storms and high tides had eroded the descent to the beach and it was impossible to walk down. I shuffled down on my bottom. Tom was some way behind as he had stopped along the trail to take photos and I had carried on without him. I knew he would have trouble getting onto the beach with his tripod so I sat on a nearby log so I could help him when he arrived. He also shuffled down on his bottom. I wondered though how we would get back up again.

Elephant seal at Franklin Point. When this guy had his head down resting he looked like a rock.

Once again I strode ahead, with the bench on Franklin Point in my sights. I heard Tom call me back and wondered what he had seen. It was a young male elephant seal lying on the beach. If he hadn’t called me back I would have tripped over him. Wow! This put us in a bit of a dilemma. How were we going to get past him as he was between the bluff and the ocean and you must stay at least 25 feet away? We decided to climb up and walk over the bluffs. It took us a little time and we both took different routes. I know you are not supposed to go off the trail but we did follow trodden paths. I kept my eyes open for any more stray elephant seals but I saw none. I did see paw tracks though. Bobcat or mountain lion I wondered? It made me realize just how vulnerable we frail humans are. I didnt want to run into either animal so I sang as I walked to warn any animals that I was coming.

I saw an interesting plant with runners and small clumps of leaves every so often. To me it looked like a strawberry plant. Then I saw lots more of them and tried really hard not to trample any of them. A bit further on I saw a white flower on one of the clumps of leaves and can confirm that they are wild strawberries. I wonder if they grow here naturally or whether they have been planted to improve the stability of the dunes.

Eventually I found a way through to the trail which led to my favorite bench. From a distance I could see Tom had already reached it and wondered how on earth he had beaten me. As I approached the bench along the boardwalk I realized it was not Tom at all but a stranger who was happily sitting there eating his breakfast. I looked back and saw Tom making his way along the trail to the boardwalk.

Wetlands on the way back from Franklin Point.

Sitting on the bench and soaking in the view was bliss. There was a chilly breeze but the sun was out. I chatted with the man when he finished his breakfast. He had walked along the trail from the south and had passed a couple of elephant seals on the way.

The views were as amazing as ever. Looking back I could see another group had arrived at the beach with children. I hoped they wouldn’t get too close to the elephant seal. Fortunately they gave it a wide berth. There were no pelicans today, which is unusual but we spotted a group of cormorants standing guard on a rock offshore.

Looking back to the beach I noticed that the elephant seal was gone but wasn’t sure whether he had made his way back to the ocean or had hauled himself further up the beach. At least we could walk back along the beach without disturbing him.

Later, as we made our way back, we discovered a trail the to the ocean the elephant seal had made. We also spotted another elephant seal at the top of the beach. This is the first time I have ever seen elephant seals here and it is an amazing sight. To avoid the difficult climb up to the trail we took a shortcut over the bluffs and along the edge of the small lake.

We debated whether to go back the way we had come to Santa Cruz or whether to drive back although Pescadero. The tempting thought of a fresh baked artichoke garlic bread from Arcangeli’s and goat cheese from Harley Farms was too strong to resist. We also bought a ollieberry pie in Arcangeli’s. Tonight we are going to enjoy a real Coastside meal with abalone followed by ollalieberry pie and ice cream. We might even have room finish up with bread (if there is any left by the time we get home) and goats cheese. Mmm, mmm.

Once again we have enjoyed another wonderful day. There is nothing like California with its never ending choices of places to visit and even if we have been to a place before, it is always different each time we go back. I feel so lucky to be living here.

Crop dusters on the way to Fresno

It was 5.45 on a Saturday morning and we are setting off for Fresno. Our normal route is 101, 152, I-5 and then through Firebaugh to 99. This time we are taking a different route, first stopping for breakfast at Eddies Restaurant in Los Banos and then taking 33 south, driving down the middle the San Jonquin Valley.

The temperature was just below 50 degrees and we were hoping it didn’t rain. It was still dark but we could see one star (Tom said it was probably a planet) twinkling in the night sky. The sun began to rise and the mountains became more defined. As it became lighter, we could see more and more detail. Then the sky turned pink above the peaks.

By this time we were driving along Highway 152 through rich farmland and passing signs advertising fruit stands – all closed as we passed of course. Then we reached the foothills and started to climb. On either side of the road the green hills dipped and rose. Casa de Fruita, with all it’s lights ablaze, shone like a beacon.

One of the peaks we saw as we turned onto 152, was the one we spotted when we were having dinner at the Faultline in San Juan Bautista last year. We hoped to pass near enough to it so we could identify its location and hopefully discover what it is called but alas we were disappointed. Every so often we spotted it and then lost sight of it again. Eventually we lost sight of it completely and even by looking back I could not see it.

San Luis Reservoir

Many times we have travelled this road and passed the sign for Dinosaur Point. This time we decided to investigate. As soon as we turned onto it, Tom realized that this was the old road he used to drive on to get to the Central Valley back before the San Luis Reservoir was created and the B.F Sisk Dam built in 1967. The road led to a boat launch on the reservoir. The level of the water was to the brim due to the amount of rain we have had recently. It is the first time for several years we have seen so much water.

Back on 152 again we drove the short distance and pulled into the Romero Visitors Center and the overlook. The gate was closed because the Visitors Center was not open yet. We parked the car just outside the gate and had a wander around. From my vantage point looking down onto the water, I could see several fishermen precariously standing on the side of the hill at the waters edge. Out on the water were several groups of birds and a beautiful egret flew by. I even saw a fish jump. On the other side of the water I saw a wind farm. Even though I was experiencing a chill breeze, none of the windmills appeared to be working.

After breakfast in Los Banos, we carried on driving east along 152 and turned right onto 33 a few miles outside Los Banos. Just before we drove through Don Palos we passed a diner called  Barb’s Breakfast & Brunch on our right. Next time we are down this way we will try it out. The sign outside Don Palos informed us that there were 5,000 lived residents there.

In the distance we saw a crop duster which was flying low over the ground towards us. Just before it reached us it banked and turned back. I have never been that close to a crop duster before and hoped that we wouldn’t be be overcome by whatever he was spraying. Along the way we passed several huge concrete buildings dotted here and there. Some still seemed to be thriving businesses but a lot looked abandoned like one with ‘Farmers Rice Crop; still barely readable painted on the side.

It was a very pleasant ride through territory we have not seen before. In the distance we could see the snow capped Sierras about 90 miles to the east. The fields were freshly plowed and not showing much sign of anything growing yet. Off to the left we saw a hawk hovering, waiting to pounce on its unsuspecting breakfast. Sheep and lambs were grazing in several fields which is a rare sight in the area.

Almond orchard blossoms

Approaching Firebaugh I saw two small decrepit houses raised off the ground on blocks of wood. Soon after that a full sized metal sculpture of a buffalo in a garden. Normally we drive into Firebaugh on W Nees Avenue from I-5 and then on Firebaugh Blvd towards 99 and Fresno. This time we saw the industrial side of Firebaugh with the N.F Davies Drier and Elevator grain store to the north and lots of other businesses. I always considered Firebaugh a relatively small place but now I realized it is quite large.

Less than 10 miles south of Firebaugh we drove through Mendota. A large sign informed us that it was the ‘Cantaloupe Center of the World’. South of Mendota we turned left onto Highway 180 and past the huge Spreckles Sugar factory which dominates the landscape. It was only open from 1963 – 2008. The fields on either side of the road for a few miles were just scrub land and hard pan. Slowly the scenery changed. First we saw a feedlot and then the orchards began. What a beautiful sight – rows and rows of trees with white blossom, which I think were almond trees. We stopped so Tom could take some photos. He wandered down amongst the trees and called me over. As I got out of the car I could vaguely discern a sweet smell from the blossom which became more and more intoxicating the closer I got to the trees. Looking through the trees I could see the blossom falling and laying on the ground like snow.

We turned north on Lassen towards Shaw. The road became narrower and there were more almond trees. Grape vines started to appear and in several places some very old and abandoned vines. Along the road, which was less busy than both 33 and 180, were bee hives. We passed more and more houses and soon we were on Shaw and rapidly the countryside was no longer visible as shops and urban life took over.

We have found a new route to Fresno which cuts out the boring ride down I-5 and will come this way again.