Archive for April, 2010
One of the fishing boats at Pillar Point Harbor
Another beautiful spring day in sunny California. Our main destination today is Franklin Point on the San Mateo Coast. As we drove towards the coast on Highway 92, the sun was rising. The slopes of the Santa Cruz Mountains were bathed in a reddish tint and everything looked glorious.
(Click the photos for larger versions)
After breakfast at the 3-Zero Cafe next to Half Moon Bay Airport, we stopped off at Pillar Point Harbor. We were looking to buy some fresh fish straight from the boats. At first I was surprised at the number of people around but then realized it was a group gathering for a whale watching boat trip. Now is a great time of the year for such a trip as the female gray whales are close to shore escorting their young calves north.
We wandered down the wharf looking to see if any boats were selling fresh fish. There was only one boat open for business but they only had Dungeness Crabs on offer.
It was very pleasant walking down the ramps and floating wharves, strolling around looking at all the fishing boats. These are definitely working boats with their decks littered with ropes, pontoons, crab cages and rusty equipment. Boats gently nudged the edge of the wharves as they rose and fell with the swell and we swayed slightly with the motion.
These fishermen have been experiencing hard times recently with the closure of the salmon fishing season for the last two years. There will be limited commercial fishing this year (just eight days in May) so soon they will be able to catch at least a little of the local king salmon, which is the best salmon ever.
Pigeon Point Light House
Onto our main destination today – Franklin Point. I know it is only a few weeks since our last visit but we were anxious to see whether the path to the beach had been restored. I want to sit on our favorite seat and gaze out across the ocean. With any luck we should spot a few whales today. Passing Pescadero State Beach we noticed, a group of people standing on the bluffs. Whale watching maybe? Then we noticed a tour bus in the parking lot. There is going to be a lot of people around today.
We did consider stopping at Pigeon Point Lighthouse but the parking lot is not very large and it was packed, plus cars were parked along the side of the road. We did stop a few hundred yards south of the lighthouse so Tom could take a picture of the lighthouse with the wild flowers in the foreground. I stayed near the car and kept my eyes peeled for water spouts. There were several boats some way offshore. They could have been fishing boats or whale watching tours. It was a beautiful spot. The view was spectacular and the sound of birds singing was background music.
Pigeon Point Light House from a different angle
Between the lighthouse and Ano Nuevo is the parking place for Franklin Point. There were no other cars there. I set off down the path, watching a hawk hunting to my right. On the path I spotted a fat orange and black furry caterpillar. Since our last visit there must have been some rain because the path was quite muddy in places.
Over the last dune and where the path abruptly ended on our last visit in February, there is now limited access to the beach. It is a steep slide down. I was grateful to arrive in one piece but how was I going to get back?
It was good to be there on the beach with the seat within walking distance. The tide was high and it didn’t look possible to get to the point along the beach where there is a path to the seat. When I reached the rocks at the end of the beach there was no way over the rocks so I went back up the beach looking for a way round. There was a tent pitched just above the high tide mark and by the amount of personal possessions scattered around it almost looks like somebody has taken up residence rather than an overnight stay.
Once on top of the bluff, I followed a beaten path. Several times I had to turn back and look for an easier path but eventually I made it. At last I was on the final boardwalk to our favorite seat. Glancing back towards the entrance to the beach, I saw Tom and we waved to each other. I settled down on the bench for a serious whale watching session. This is the perfect time and the weather is just right as well.
I didn’t have to wait long. Soon I was spotting small spouts and the occasional bigger spout. You can
Franklin Point poppies
guess how thrilled I was. Every so often I would say ‘yes’ out loud or even ‘wow’. A couple of times I saw a tail rise out of the water. I imagined there was a pod of killer whales out there hunting for the vulnerable calves. The water spouts could not be seen with the naked eye from where I sat but the binoculars brought everything into view. Pigeon Point lighthouse is further out, that may be the perfect spot for whale watching.
Tom joined me and for the next hour we stayed there – Tom taking photos, just relaxing and occasionally using the binoculars. Me – I was whale watching, writing and relaxing. It was the best of times.
Eventually we stirred ourselves and made our way back to the car. Tom had found an easier route to the seat so we followed that. There were quite a few people on the main path leading back to the highway, some people were sitting on the bluffs and looking out to sea. Everybody was enjoying this wonderful location.
On the way back to Highway 92, we stopped in Half Moon Bay to buy some fresh salmon. It was from Alaska so not quite as fresh as it would have been if we had been able to buy straight from the fishermen but until the real stuff arrives it will have to do. Along with some asparagus we bought from the shop next door, we have all the ingredients for a great BBQ.
April 27 2010 | Special Places | 1 Comment »
3-Zero Cafe at the Half Moon Bay Airport
Tom found a new place for breakfast today. We have passed it many times and never noticed it. It is at Half Moon Bay Airport, right off Highway 1 and used to be the terminal building for San Mateo Airport. Lots of parking outside and lots of room inside.
The first thing that strikes you as you walk towards the door are the airplanes suspended from the ceiling. They come in all sizes from large down to the size my brother used to build from kits many moons ago.
We could sit anywhere we wanted and chose a table in the window looking over the airfield. The place has so many windows that by turning our heads we could also see traffic passing on Highway 1.
The menu is very impressive and yes, there was oatmeal. It was in the Lite section and comes with sugar, raisins, fruit and a dry English muffin for $5.75. Tom’s choice was an asparagus omelet for $9.45. The coffee was $1.95.
It is certainly a bright and cheerful place with colorful plastic tablecloths and the sun slanting through the windows. Apart from the aforementioned airplanes hanging from the ceiling, the walls are covered with pictures, photos, maps and assorted aviation memorabilia. The entrance to the airport office is inside the cafe as well.
We did not have long to wait for our food, which pleased Tom as he was hungry. His omelet looked scrumptious. The plate was not very big and the omelet and home fried potatoes filled it completely. So much so he did not know quite where to put his English muffin so he laid it on a napkin. There was a creamy hollandaise sauce on top of the omelet which was garnished with chives. My oatmeal came in a deep round bowl on a blue oval plate. Also on the plate, a small ceramic jug of milk and three small ceramic bowls containing brown sugar, raisins and chopped up strawberries. The muffin, which did not look all that dry, was sitting on the plate along with a sprig of parsley.
I enjoyed my oatmeal. It was hot and there was a lot of it. Tom said the omelet was good. The asparagus were just right – not soggy at all – and the home fried potatoes were both tasty and crispy. The coffee though was only so-so.
Real nice restroom. Big, clean, bright and with hot water. Lots of pictures on the wall but surprisingly the main themes here are paddle steamers and old cable cars. The biggest and brightest attractions are two large and colorful completed and framed jig saw puzzles, one of hot air balloons and the other of an airport scene in a bygone era.
This has been a real good find. Everything about it was great – location, food, service and surroundings. We thoroughly recommend it.
3-Zero Cafe
Half Moon Bay Airport
9850 Cabrillo Hwy N
Half Moon Bay, CA 94019
April 23 2010 | Breakfast Log | 4 Comments »
After a couple of weekends doing other things, we were back on the road again. At 5.30 we set off for Point Reyes. No breakfast blog today as we ate at home. I have been making Sleepy Morning Oatmeal and have been having that instead of stopping somewhere. I got the recipe from Johnsie who runs the Pomaika’i (Lucky) Farm B on the Big Island.”
Tomales Bay and the top of Mt. Tam in the clouds. (Oops, Photon points out that it's not Mt. Tam it's Black's Mtn. Thanks!)
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
Since the clocks sprang forward it was really been dark when we set out and the sky did not lighten up until we reached San Francisco. The top of the Golden Gate Bridge was lost in fog and we did wander whether it would be the same on Point Reyes. Over the previous week the weather had been glorious with temperatures up in the 70′s and this weekend promises to be just as warm. We brought jackets, though, just in case.
Driving through Marin the residents were beginning to wake up. A few early morning joggers and dog walkers were out and about. Beyond Lagunitas the first redwoods appeared and then signs for Point Reyes National Seashore. We were almost there.
Another view of Tomales Bay
As we rounded the southern end of Tomales Bay, we noticed that there was far more water around. Obviously the tide was at its highest. We pulled in behind The Inverness Store to take a look at our favorite disintegrating boat. It was impossible to get as close as we did in November last year when we stayed nearby for the weekend. Tom took some photos of the Bay and Mount Tam, with its peak hidden by fog.
Beyond Inverness we turned right, heading towards Tomales point instead of the light house. Soon we were in open countryside, passing the occasional historic ranch. Dairy farming is still very much a going concern judging by the many cows grazing in the fields. Each ranch we passed seemed to be raising a different breed.
Off to our left we caught glimpses of the ocean and all around were flowers in bloom. Wildflowers is one of the reasons for our trip today. After so much rain, we were expecting to see a lot of color. The predominant color though on the road to Tomales Point was the white of the cow parsley. In the past, Tomales Point trail has been a good place to see a vivid display of color.
Once across a big cattle grid, we were on the Tule Elk Reserve and we soon spotted our first group of elk and up on the crest of a hill a magnificent
Tule Elk at the reserve in Point Reyes
stag was standing in splendid isolation. Tom stopped to get some photos and was soon lost to view. When he returned to the car he said he didn’t see the stag again but had a very nice view of Tomales Bay. He also complained about the number of bugs around. Here in Claifornia we are not used to a lot of bugs but I guess the warm, wet spring has a lot to do with the increase. Note from Tom: Be mindful of the elk pasture patties. Lots of elk = lots of poop.
Further along the road there was a group of about ten female elk close to the edge of the road. Once again Tom stopped. He was able to get some good shots even though they had moved off a little way as our car approached.
We passed the Pierce Point Ranch and drove to the end of the road which was the car park for the trail down to McLures Beach. Click here for a link to all of the Point Reyes beaches. Neither of us has ever been to this beach so we decided to go take a look. The sandy trail descended gradually. Along the way there were many wildflowers – yellow lupin like flowers, orange California poppies, lilac and white stock like flowers, small purple ground cover plants, bright spiky ice plants and purple vetch. The beach was wild and almost deserted. There was a small group of gulls and about a dozen sanderlings. It is amusing to watch the latter as they follow the receding surf and then turn and quickly mince away as the next little wave surges up the beach.
California Golden Poppy
There were two lots of footsteps in the sand heading north. In the distance I could see two fisherman at the edge of the water. I walked back towards the trail and sat on a large weathered piece of driftwood to catch up on my writing. Tom was busy with his camera and tripod. The sun wasn’t visible at all so it was not very warm plus there was a stiff breeze. At least there is no fog but off in the distance the view is hazy.
I ventured after Tom and discovered some rock pools. Even though I searched, I could not see any fish or even small crabs. There were no sea anemones fastened to the rocks either but it was good fun to clamber over the seaweed covered rocks.
Walking back up the trail seemed much steeper than the descent but there was much to distract me along the way. I looked more closely at the colorful plants and wished that I could identify them all. I tried to take some close up photos so I could look them up when I got home but they did not turn out too good at all.
We drove out of the car park and back up the road for a quarter of a mile and then turned left into the car park of Pierce Point Ranch. As I got out of the car I saw a photo of a woman posted on a notice board and went to have a closer look. It was a flier about Katherine Truitt, a 37 year old resident of Alameda, who had gone missing on January 8 this year. Her car was discovered in the parking lot at McClures Beach. It is assumed she was struck by a rogue or sneaker wave and swept out to sea. Back home I checked to see whether her body had been recovered but so far it has not. While searching I read that another woman – Silvia Lange, a 77 year former volunteer at Point Reyes National Seashore, also went missing 13 days later but this time further south. There are many warnings posted around at Point Reyes about the dangers of getting too close to the ocean so my guess is these two disappearances, though tragic, are just coincidences.
Pierce Point Ranch is not a working ranch now but not only was it the first ranch to be established on Point Reyes it was also the
Pierce Point Ranch
largest. It was built in mid 1800′s and all of the buildings are still standing. There is a self guided tour around the hay barn, one room school house, calving shed, bunk houses and creameries although the only building you can walk through is the hay barn.
I first visited here with Tom about ten years ago and everything looked so much better than it does now. All the buildings need a coat of paint and basic maintenance but I guess the current economic situation has not helped.
There is a trail from here called the Tomales Point Trail and Tom and I have walked it several times. We had every intention of walking it today but the diversion to McClures Beach has not left us enough time. It has been a long time since breakfast and our tummies are growling.
We headed for Point Reyes Station in search of food. On the road between Pierce Point Ranch and Inverness we passed many bikes. The cyclists wore vests which proclaimed they were in training for the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society.
In Point Reyes Station we looked around for somewhere to eat. Osteria Stellina opens for lunch at 11.30 so we decided to give them a try. We had dinner here a few months ago and we both really enjoyed it. We had a few minutes to kill before it opened so we went to the bank and on the way back to the restaurant Tom spotted a jacket he quite fancied.
Lunch was great. For starters Tom had asparagus and lemon and I had the beets and greens salad with ricotta cheese. We both had the GBD with aged Gruyere cheese. I did ask what GBD stood for and was told ‘Golden Brown and Delicious’. It certainly lived up to its name and worth all the extra calories. We drove home feeling replete and happy.
April 16 2010 | Special Places | 3 Comments »
Lovely spring day outside of Gilroy
We have explored wine areas in distant parts of California but there are some much nearer to home. Today we took the short ride to Gilroy, first having breakfast at OD’s Kitchen in the center of town.
Before we left home we made a list of the wineries which were a bit off the beaten track. After breakfast we drove north on Monterey Highway, turning left onto Day Road. Soon we were out in the country heading for the hills. It was a nice sunny day and we passed large houses, small ranches and vineyards. This is a favorite route for cyclists. Yellow and pink blossom was everywhere and the grass was green. Spring has arrived.
We stopped along the way to take photos. It was quiet and peaceful, with cattle grazing nearly and the odd cyclist whizzed past. To both and left and right were small rounded hills – on the one side they were almost bare of everything except grass and on the other they were covered with trees. One huge tree dominated the road ahead.
Our first stop was Kirigin Cellars on Watsonville Road because it opened at 10. We drove up the short drive way, following the signs for the Tasting Room. The car park is hemmed in by large, slightly shabby buildings and there were no other cars around. The tasting room is very unusual. It doesn’t look very big on the outside and the front is covered entirely with greenery. The entrance is through a huge wine vat. Inside was a lady who made us very welcome. She chatted as she finished setting everything up and explained that all the buildings are historic and they appear run down because they are not allowed to do much to them. In the course of conversation, as she was telling us about the different wines, mention of made of the fact that Kirigin Cellars also sell vinegar. I was very surprised to hear that.
We started off tasting two white wines, followed by six reds. While we were there a couple and their two children came specially to buy a case of
Kirigin Cellars
vinegar. I asked what was so special about the vinegar and he waxed lyrical for several minutes on how wonderful the vinegar was. We bought two bottles of red wine – a 2005 Syrah a 2005 Zinfandel and they were both reasonably priced. The server asked if we had ever tried their ‘Kissing Wine’ and we had to admit we had never heard of it. It is a port style dessert wine called Vino de Mocca. We tried some and it tasted of chocolate and was delicious. I asked why it was called that and was told that the original owner started making it many years ago and it gained the reputation for being responsible for a lot of babies to be born nine months after drinking this wine.
Our next stop of Sarah’s Vineyard which was a short drive away on Highway 152 – Hecker Pass which opened at 11 am. It was in a beautiful setting and already there were a couple of other cars there. Everything looked very neat and had obviously been refurbished. The tasting room was new and a bit up market for the area. We didn’t stay long at all when we noticed that there was a charge of $5 each to taste the wine. We made a quick exit.
The last winery we wanted to visit was Martin Ranch Winery on Redwood Retreat Road. It opened at 12 and we were way too early. We passed Martin Ranch Winery and carried on to the end of the road. We knew it was a dead end road but we decided to see what was at the end. It turned out to be another small winery which is only open one weekend a month. We turned round and drove back down the road, turning right onto Mt Madonna Road. According to the map, the road goes into Watsonville and one of the turnings leads to Mt Madonna County Park and another is Summit Road, which eventually joins up with Highway 17. Soon the road became narrow then it turned into a track and got even narrower. We passed through a redwood forest and we began to wonder how far we would be able to go before the road ran out. On one side there was a hillside and on the other a steep drop. We decided to turn back but there were no stopping places and the road was not really wide enough to turn around in but Tom managed to to it without going over the edge (I kept my eyes closed). Two minutes later a truck passed us so the road obviously does lead to somewhere.
We arrived at Martin Ranch Winery just a few minutes after 12. There was a signboard outside saying the Crushpad was open. A short drive brought us to a car park and once again we were the first customers of the day. As we got out of the car somebody waved and called out a welcome. We sauntered over to the crushpad but stopped to admire the vineyard and the view. While we stood there enjoying what we were looking at, a man came over to talk to us. He introduced himself as Dan Martin, the owner of the winery. He spoke to us for fifteen minutes explaining the fermentation process and how he produces the wine. It was all very interesting. His wife. Therese, is also a winemaker but uses a completely different process. They produce and sell their wine under two labels – J.D. Hurley and Therese Vineyards.
Hoping to catch the big one at Martin Ranch Winery
Today they are holding a Barrel Tasting event. To sample the wine there was a charge of $10 per glass. The price also included food. We just bought one glass between us. The wine was ready to sample so we got to it. I sampled the Sauvignon Blanc and it was great. I wandered off to get a bite to eat. Snacks were on offer at all the tables and on a separate table was a cheese board. I just can’t resist cheese so I tried a little bit of each one on offer. Everybody was very friendly and I even got to chat with Therese. She told me all about the wine club and the events which are held during the year. Every summer they hold a fishing derby and she pointed out to me a young boy who was last year’s winner. Towards the end of summer they host a BBQ for the members of the wine club. She also told me to make sure I used the restroom because the wall was covered with photos of their different events over the years. Sometimes she said that people take so much time looking at the photos a long line forms outside waiting to get in.
When I found Tom again he was in the middle of buying six bottles of wine, including a bottle of the Sauvignon Blanc. He then went on the barrel tasting group tour. I decided to take a walk around. The first stop was at the vegetable garden. Therese told me that it was an organic garden and everything growing there was for members of the wine club to help themselves to. It is mostly tended by one of the members. Further on I came across the lake. It was very quiet and peaceful up there. At the other end, the young fisherman, who had been pointed out to me, was fishing with his father and younger brother. I left them in peace.
We had a great time today at the two wineries and have a few bottles of wine to keep us going for a while. It is nice to know that we have some very good wineries within easy distance of home and we will be back.
April 09 2010 | Special Places | No Comments »
A late start today. We plan to hit some wineries around Gilroy and they don’t open until later in the morning.
OD's Kitchen in downtown Gilroy
OD’s is in central Gilroy. According to another review, this place gets crowded. We were expecting to have difficulty parking and to wait for a table. Neither happened. OD’s has it’s own car park across the road and there were several spots empty. There is also parking available right outside the cafe.
From the outside the place looked full with people waiting inside but we got a table straight away. The place was buzzing with lively chatter and there were lots of servers bustling around. Our table was a two seater right next to an unused front door – at least we hoped it was unused. The letterbox, which I found unusual as I have never seen one in a door over here, was blocked by a dish cloth. Very artistic!
Our very nice server handed us the menus and poured coffee for Tom. There was oatmeal listed on the menu but only available on weekdays. We both ordered the Eggs Benedict – $6.95.
The main theme of the decor was horses from the pictures and sculptures on the walls to the logo on the servers; T-shirts. One painting on wood caught my eye because it did not feature horses. It was of four fishes, ranging in size from the very large to the very small. The three bigger fishes have their mouths open. The caption read – ‘There is no such thing as a free lunch’.
Our food took a little time to come but we weren’t complaining as they were very busy. When we ordered Tom asked for the has browns to be extra crispy and they were. The server even came back to check that they were OK.
Tom had one comment about the silverware – the fork tasted metallic and I had to agree with him.
The restroom was large but not impressive. There was no hot water at all and there was only a big roll of kitchen paper to dry your hands on. The only decoration was a very dusty artificial green plant in a wicker basket on top of a cupboard.
Our conclusion was that the food was OK but were not very impressed with the whole package. Doubt whether we would pay another visit.
OD’s Kitchen
28 Martin St
Gilroy, CA 95020
April 04 2010 | Breakfast Log | 1 Comment »
